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PR OPRIETORS. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 

(JonfinrnfaK JGiifp Insurant? (jo, 

OIF ZN-^EW "Z-O^^I, 
Office, - - - - 22, 24, find 26 Nassau Street 

(Continental Building). 




DIRECTORS. 

James H. Colgate, Trevor & Colgate, 

Banker?. 
Chaunoey M. Depew, Late Secretary 

of State. 
Justus Lawrence, President. 
G. Hilton Sckibneb, New York. 
Joseph T. Sanger, Merchant, No. 45 

Liberty Street. 
M. B. Wtnkoop, Wynkoop & Hallen- 

beck. 
Henry C. Fish, D.D., Newark, N. J. 
Richard W. Bogart, O. M. Bogart & 

Co., Bankers. 
Luther W. Frost, New York. 



The most successful and most enter- 
prising Company in the United States. 



Branch Offices in all the principal States. 
Plan M!iit-u.al. 



PROFITS OF THE COMPANY ANNUALLY DIVIDED. 

One-third, of the Premium may remain unpaid 
as a Loan 

No Notes Inquired. Policies Non-Forfeitable. 

Thirty days' grace allowed in payment of Premiums. 
Insured have the widest liberty to travel in any part of the world, 

WITHOUT EXTRA CHARGE. 

Policies issued in 1868 ----- 6,004. 

Total Policies issued to May, 1869 - 14,000. 

Assets ----- - - $2,500,000.00. 

JUSTUS LAWRENCE, President. J. T. ROGERS, Secretary. 



THE 

SUMMER TOURIST'S 

POCKET GUIDE. 



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IMPORTANT RULES FOR RAILWAY TRAVELERS. 

1st. Purchase a copy of The Tourist's Guide, and select your route 
previous to commencing your journey. 

2d. Purchase your Ticket previous to entering the cars, and by so 
doing save yourself trouble and an extra dime. 

3d. Check your Baggage previous to entering the cars, thus saving 
much anxiety and vexation. 

4th. Have a regard for the rights of your fellow-travelers, thereby 
teaching them, by example, to respect yours. 

5th. The fact of any article being deposited in a seat is prima facie 
evidence of the seat having.been taken. 

6th. Eailway Checks are good only for tne train for which they are 
issued. Passengers, therefore, can not lay over" for the next train 
without making arrangements with the Conductor. 



THE 
( 

Summer Tourist's 

POCKET GUIDE 

TO 

AMERICAN WATERING-PLACES. 

WITH MAP AND TABLES OF DISTANCES. 



By E. HEPPLE HALL, 

Editor " Hand-Book of American Travel," " The Great West," &c. &c. 




NEW YORK: 

CATHCART & HALL, No. 4 BOND STREET. 

LONDON: 

SAMPSON, LOW, SON & MARSTON. 

i860. 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1869, 

By CATHCART & HALL, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the 
Southern District of New York. 



THE AUTHOR'S CARD. 



The Tourist's Pocket Guide is designed for the use of 
those frequenting the best known and most popular among 
the summer resorts of our Atlantic Sea-board. Long ex- 
perience in the preparation [of such [works has taught its 
author the importance of imparting the largest possible 
amount of information in the smallest possible space, and 
with the least possible amount of trouble on the part of those 
using them. Brevity, perspicuity and conciseness, will, he 
trusts be sufficiently noticeable in the following pages. The 
difficulties incident to the preparation of such books are only 
too well known. Absolute accuracy is cf course impossible. 

The Map, though far from what it should be, will greatly 
aid reference 

The Distance and Time Tables are a new feature in 
such a book, and will be found of great assistance to the 
active tourist. 



METHODICAL TABLE. 



INTRODUCTION— New York City Guide. 

ROUTE I.— Up the Hudson . 

ROUTE II.— Saratoga and Ballston Springs 

ROUTE III.— Lake George 

ROUTE IV.— Lake Champlain 

ROUTE V— The White Mountains . 

ROUTE VI.— The Adirondack Region 

ROUTE VII.— Niagara Falls 

ROUTE VIII.— The St. Lawrence River 

ROUTE IX.— Up the St. Lawrence . 

ROUTE X.— Newport and Vicinity 

ROUTE XL— Long Branch and Surroundings 

ROUTE XII.— Cape^May . 

POPULAR RESORTS .... 

RAILROAD TIME TABLES. 

STEAMBOATS 

INDEX ... 
TOURISTS GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



PAGES 

i-xxx. 

1-33 

34-38 

39-45 

46-49 

50-62 

63-71 

72-84 

85-93 

94-110 

111-115 

116-118 

119-120 

121-126 

148-152 
153-156 



INTRODUCTION. 




NEW YORK CITY. 

;ie metropolis of the State of New York, the chief 
city of the United States, the second commercial 
city of the world, and the third in point of popula- 
tion, is situated on the island of Manhattan, at the 
junction of the Hudson and East Rivers, 20 miles from the 
Atlantic Ocean. The limits of the city are co-extensive with 
those of the county, embracing the entire island, which is 
13^ miles in length, and 2\ miles at its greatest breadth. In- 
cluding the suburban cities of Brooklyn, Jersey City and 
Hoboken, which properly belong to New York, it is by far 
the most populous and important city of the American Con- 
tinent. The City Hall is in latitude 40 42' 43" N., and 74' 
o' 3" W. longitude. The most busy and densely inhabited 
portions of the city proper occupy an area embracing nearly 
four square miles, at the southern extremity of the Island 
of Manhattan. It is divided into twenty-two wards, and is 
governed by a mayor and common council. The mayor is 
elected by popular vote, and holds office two years. The 
common council is composed of two boards ; seventeen alder- 
men, elected for a term of two years, constituting one board, 



ii INTRODUCTION. 

and twenty-five assistant aldermen, chosen annually, forming 
the other. With a population exceeding 1,250,000, and in- 
creasing at the rate of 50 per cent, every ten years, New York 
is already third in size among the cities of Christendom, and 
bids fair at no very distant day to rival all except London 
itself. 

The city contains 18 main streets or avenues, and upward 
of 1,000 streets, courts, and lanes. Broadway, the Bowery, 
and Canal Street, are its leading thoroughfares. The first 
of these, for the costly magnificence of its buildings, and 
the varied display of merchandise, is perhaps without an 
equal in the world. The leading hotels, theatres, and retail 
stores, are located in Broadway. Fifth Avenue, the favorite 
resort of fashion, runs parallel with Broadway, a little west 
of that street. It is upward of three miles in length, and 
contains some of the finest private residences to be found 
in the city. Madison Avenue, Fourteenth and Twenty- 
third and Thirty-fourth streets, and many of the squares, 
also have fine private residences. For a more extended 
description of these fine streets, the reader is referred to 
Walks, Promenades, etc. 



PUBLIC CONVEYANCES. 

The first consideration of a stranger or traveler arriving 
in New York, is to procure suitable conveyance to his hotel 
or other stopping-place. 

The most popular conveyances in New York are undoubt- 
edly the street car, and the stage or omnibus. Their cheap- 
ness and despatch equally commend them to general use. 



INTRODUCTION. iii 

Of the former there are thirteen distinct lines, and twenty- 
nine of the latter, which extend to every part of the city. A 
uniform charge of six cents is made for each passenger on 
the cars, and ten cents on the stages. 

Carriages, Hackney Coaches, etc. — These can be 
hired by the hour, day, or trip. A city ordinance requires 
each driver to keep his schedule of prices posted up inside 
his conveyance ; but this very wise measure is not always 
carried out. They will, however, generally be found at the 
leading hotels. In no case should an overcharge be sub- 
mitted to. If travelers and strangers would but insist on 
their rights in this matter, they would be more generally re- 
spected. Carriage and hack drivers, as a general rule, if 
left to decide for themselves, between a license to do right 
and the liberty to do wrong, will not be slow to adopt the 
latter alternative. Separate charges are made for one-horse 
and two-horse carriages. The former are known as cabrio- 
lets or cabs. Hansoms, or London Safetys, have been re- 
cently introduced, and we are glad to see are rapidly becom- 
ing popular. When conveyances are engaged by the hour, 
the driver should be notified on entering ; otherwise he can 
demand the price of " a course " for each stoppage. 



THE FOLLOWING ARE THE LEGAL. 
RATES OF HACK HIRE. 

For one passenger, any distance not exceeding one 

mile • $° SO 

For two passengers, same distance 75 

For every additional o-issc/* ••>.., ... • • 372 



iv INTRODUCTION. 

For every passenger, any distance exceeding a mile 

and within two miles $o 75 

For every additional passenger 37 \ 

For conveying one passenger to the New Alms House, 

and returning I 00 

For every additional passenger 50 

For conveying one passenger to 40th Street, remaining 

half an hour, and returning I 50 

For every additional passenger 50 

For conveying one passenger to 61st Street, remaining 

f of an hour, and returning 2 00 

For every additional passenger 50 

For conveying one passenger to 86th Street, remaining 

an hour, and returning 2 50 

For every additional passenger 75 

For conveying one or more passengers to Harlem or 

High Bridge, and returning, remaining three hours. 5 00 
For conveying one or more passengers to King's Bridge 

and returning, with privilege of carriage all day. ... 5 00 
For the use of a hackney-coach or carriage by the day, 

with one or more passengers 5 00 

For the use of a hackney-coach or carriage by the 

hour, with privilege of going from place to place, 

and stopping as often as may be required 1 00 

When the hiring of a hackney-coach or carriage is not at 
the time specified to be by the day or hour, it shall be 
deemed to be by the mile. 

Whenever a hackney-coach or carriage shall be detained, 
excepting as aforesaid, the owner or driver shall be allowed 
at the rate of 75 cents an hour. 



INTRODUCTION. 



CENTRAL PARK HACK FARES. 

All around the Park $4 00 

Principal parts of the Park 3 00 

Casino and Lake, and return 2 00 

Or by the hour, $2 first ; $1.50 succeeding hours. 



For the convenience of those using the most popular of all 
the city means of conveyance, we append a complete list of 
the city or horse railway lines. 

CITY RAILROADS. 

Bleecker Street and Fulton Ferry. — From Ful- 
ton Ferry, through Beekman, Centre, Crosby, and Bleecker, 
to 14th Street, at North River. Yellow Cars. — From Ful- 
ton Ferry, through Chatham, Canal, Elm, Bleecker to 14th 
Street and North River. 

Broadway and Seventh Avenue. — From north 
side of Astor House, through Church, Thompson, Green- 
wich Avenue, and Seventh Avenue, to Central Park. Re- 
turning over same route to Thompson, thence through 
W. Broadway to Astor House. 

Broadway Railroad. — From north side of Astor 
House, through Church, Greene, University Place, Broad- 
way and Seventh Avenue to Central Park. Returning over 
same route to University Place, thence through Wooster 
and W. Broadway to Astor House. Branch line at Broome 
and Broadway. 



vi INTRODUCTION. 

■/ 

Broadway and Clinton Street. — From Park Row, 
through East Broadway and Avenue B, to 34th Street 
Ferry, East River. 

Canal Street and Grand Street Ferry.— From, 
junction of Canal and Broadway to Grand Street Ferry. 
East River. (See Grand Street Ferry to Cortlandt Street 
Ferry.) 

Central Park, North and East Mirer,— (Eastern 
Division.) From South Ferry, through Front, to Grand 
Street Ferry ; thence through Avenues A, D, and First, to 
Fifth Avenue, and Central Park. 

Central Park, IVortli and East River.— ( Western 
'Division) From South Ferry, through West Street and 
Tenth Avenue to 59th Street and Central Park. 

East Broadway and Dry Dock.— From Park Row, 
through Chatham, East Broadway, and Avenue D, to Dry 
Dock. 

Eighth Avenue. — From Vesey and Broadway, through 
West Broadway, Hudson and Eighth Avenue, to Central 
Park. Branches from Broadway and Canal ; one to Cen- 
tral Park, and the other to Manhattanville. 

Fir§t and Second Avenue Railroad. — From Peck 
Slip, East River, to South, to Bowery, to Second Ave- 
nue, to Central Park, to Harlem, returning through First 
Avenue. 

Forty-Second Street and Grand Street Ferry. 

— From Grand Street Ferry, East River, through Avenue 
A, 14th Street, Broadway and 34th Street, to Tenth Ave- 
nue and 42d Street. 



INTRODUCTION. vn 

Fourth Avenue Railroad. — From Park Row, op- 
posite Astor House, to Grand, to the Bowery, to Fourth 
Avenue, to. 27th Street, connecting with New Haven and 
Harlem Railroads ; thence to 34th Street Ferry, connect- 
ing with the Long Island and Flushing Railroads. 

Grand Street Ferry to Cortlandt Street Ferry. 

— From Grand Street Ferry, over same route as Canal 
and Grand Street Ferry, to Canal and Broadway ; thence 
through Walker, North Moore and West, to Cortlandt 
Street Ferry. 

Hudson River Railroad.— From comer of Broad- 
way and Warren Streets, to Hudson, to Tenth Avenue, 
to 30th Street, connecting with steam-cars to Albany. 

Ninth Avenue Railroad. — From north side of As- 
tor House to West Broadway, to Greenwich, to Ninth 
1 Avenue, to 51st Street and Central Park. 

Sixtli Avenue R lilroad. — From south side of Astor 
House to West Broadway, to Sixth Avenue, to Central 
Park. Branch at Canal Street. 

Thircl Avenue Railroad.— From Park Row, oppo- 
site Astor House, to Bowery, to Third Avenue, to Central 
Park, to Harlem Bridge. Connects with Morrisania horse 
R. R. 



viii INTRODUCTION. 



HOTELS. 

Next to the means of reaching them, the first considera- 
tion of the stranger or traveler arriving in New York is to 
procure comfortable quarters. In this matter he will have 
all needed facility. No city in the world surpasses New 
York, either in the extent or splendor of its hotel accommoda- 
tion ; while in the number and excellence of its restaurants, 
and lodging and boarding houses, it is far in advance of any 
other city on the American continent. As the Guide is de- 
signed for popular use, the editor will endeavor to meet the 
tastes and wishes of all, by treating of each of these descrip- 
tions of accommodation briefly, under separate heads. 

The choice of a lodging in New York should, as it most often 
does, depend upon the object of the traveler's visit, whether 
it be business, study, or pleasure, and on the length of his 
purse. The price of lodging varies with the season, the 
quarter, and the status of the hotel. 

Of hotels, there are upward of 150 in the city proper. 
We will briefly enumerate the most commodious and desir- 
able. 

The Fifth Avenue Hotel is unsurpassed for the extent of 
its accommodation, and the excellence and good taste with 
which it is furnished. It has many conveniences and advan- 
tages over other strictly first-class hotels. Its location, at 
the intersection of Fifth Avenue and Broadway, facing Madi- 
son Square, is one of the best the pity affords, commanding 
easy access by means of numerous lines of street railways, 
with the down-town business quarter, and a pleasant stroll- 
ing-ground or ramble for ladies and children. It is built 
of marble, is six stories high, and presents, when viewed 



INTRODUCTION. ix 

from the square, a most imposing appearance. Its great 
hight, which otherwise might be thought an objectionable 
feature, is made subservient to a mechanical contrivance, 
known as a vertical railway, by means of which guests can 
reach their rooms, or any part of the house, with ease and 
despatch. It has first-class accommodations for 1,100 guests. 
Dnrling, Griswold & Co. are the proprietors. 

The Hoffman House, at the corner of Fifth Avenue and 
Twenty-fifth Street, also directly facing Madison Square, 
and immediately north of the Fifth Avenue Hotel, is an ad- 
mirably appointed and well-kept house. It is conducted on 
the European plan, and has a well-ordered restaurant at- 
tached. This is a most convenient up-town breakfast and 
dining place. It is wholly independent of the sallea manger y 
or regular dining-room of the hotel. The rooms are commo- 
dious and newly furnished, and the cuisine excellent. It is 
under the management of Messrs. Mitchell & Read. 

The Brevoort House is in Fifth Avenue, corner of Eighth 
Street (Clinton Place). This house has one of the most de- 
lightful locations in the city, combining the quiet retirement 
of a private mansion with ready access to Broadway and the 
leading thoroughfares. This has always been a favorite 
stopping-place with Europeans visiting the United States — 
the plan upon which it is kept, and the system adopted by 
its proprietary, being such as to specially commend it tc* 
those accustomed to European habits. 

The New York Hotel, on Broadway, at its intersection 
with Waverley Place, is a well-kept house, much patronised 
by Southern and Cuban travelers. Hildreth & Co., proprie- 
tors. 

The Astor, opposite the City Hall, is one of the oldest 
and most popular houses in New York. It is under the 



x INTRODUCTION. 

able management of the Messrs. Stetson. It is constructed 
wholly of Quincy granite, and contains 326 chambers. Its 
noble facade of over 200 feet on Broadway, renders it one of 
the most prominent objects in that quarter of the city. The 
Metropolitan and the St. Nicholas, on Broadway, above 
Canal Street, are both excellent houses. 

The Clarendon, in Fourth Avenue, at the corner of Seven- 
teenth Street, is a good house, and much frequented by 
English travelers. The Everett House, facing Union Square, 
has one of the most delightful locations in the city ; it is 
especially a desirable house for families ; the cuisine and 
attendance are such as to recommend it to those capable of 
aporeciating the comforts of home life. 

The St. Denis, corner of Broadway and Eleventh Street, 
and the St. Germain, on Twenty-second Street, at the in- 
tersection of Broadway and Fifth Avenue, are both desira- 
ble houses, with good restaurants attached. The Gramercy 
Park House has a retired and beautiful location in one of 
the most pleasant neighborhoods for a family hotel, between 
Twentieth and Twenty-first Streets. The Albemarle is a 
quiet and well-conducted house, in Twenty-fourth Street, in 
the immediate neighborhood of Madison Square, the Fifth 
Avenue, and all the leading up-town hotels. 

Restaurants. — The restaurants of New York rank next 
to the hotels in importance, and are much more numerous. 
For gentlemen traveling alone, these establishments offer 
many inducements. Nothing is more common than for New 
Yorkers, including ladies and invited guests, to dine or sup 
at a restaurant. Restaurants are of two kinds : the first and 
most popular, where meals are served a la carte ; the other 
at a fixed sum per meal. Detmonicds, in Fifth Avenue, oc- 
cupying the entire square between Fourteenth and Fifteenth 



INTRODUCTION. xi 

streets, is the largest establishment of the kind in this or 
perhaps any other city ; another establishment, on the corner 
of Broadway and Chambers Street, kept by the same firm, 
serves excellent dinners. The New York Restaurant (Gey- 
er's), on Broadway, nearly opposite the New York Hotel 
serves excellent dinners and private suppers. A table d'hote 
at six o'clock. The bar attached to this house has no supe- 
rior in the city. Among the down-town restaurants, Del- 
monico's, and Berry s, in Broad Street, are the most largely 
patronized. They are in the immediate neighborhood of the 
Stock Exchange and Wall Street. Dining-rooms and lunch- 
counters are attached to each. Sutherland's, on Cedar Street, 
between Broadway and Nassau, is also an excellent lunch- 
house. 

Cafes. — These are few, and, comparatively speaking, poorly 
patronized by Americans. The French and Spanish popu- 
lation go to a cafe to take a demi-tasse of coffee and a petit 
verre de liqueur, instead of sitting over their wine at a hotel or 
restaurant. The Cafe du Commerce, in Broadway, north of 
Canal Street, is among the best of its class. 

Confectioners and Pastry-Cooks. — Maillard's, 621 
Broadway, north of Houston, is an excellent restaurant and 
confectionery, much frequented by ladies, as is also that of 
Mendes. The ice cream and other summer delicacies served 
at Maillard's have no superior in the city. 

Lodging and Boarding Houses.— These abound in 
every quarter of the city, and embrace every kind and quality 
of accommodation, from the luxuriously-furnished parlor 
suite on Murray Hill or Madison Square, to the third floor 
back-i 00m or hall-chamber in the down-town quarter. Board- 
ing-house fare and accommodation are poor at the best, 
and strangers visiting New York have generally learned to 



xii INTRODUCTION. 

avoid them. Furnished apartments in private houses (mai- 
sons meublees), from a complete range or suite adapted for 
housekeeping, to a single chamber, can be had in almost 
every locality in New York, at prices ranging from $20 to 
$150 per month. It is not, howevei, customary, nor is it ad- 
vantageous, to take apartments for a stay of a few days. 
Lodgings may be hired by the night, week, or month. Ex- 
cept for the latter period, which may be made a matter of 
special agreement, payment is always expected in advance. 
The Daily "Herald" furnishes the most complete list of 
" rooms, etc., to let." 

A distinguishing social feature of New York, among other 
cities of America, is its clubs. 

Clubs. — These answer to the cercles of Paris, and are 
twenty in number. The best are the Union, on Fifth Avenue, 
corner Twenty-first Street ; the New York, No. 2 East Fif- 
teenth Street ; the Manhattan, 96 Fifth Avenue ; the Century ^ 
42 East Fifteenth Street ; the American Jockey Club; the Trav- 
elers', 222 Fifth Avenue ; the City, 31 Union Place ; and the 
Union League, Madison Avenue and Twenty-sixth Street. 
The Union Club House is the finest structure of its kind 
in the city. It is of brown stone, and cost $300,000 to build. 
There are also several yacht, chess, cricket, velocipede and 
skating clubs, and club-houses. The grounds and house of 
the St. George Cricket Club are at Hoboken, near the Elysian 
Fields. 

Saloons. — The saloons of New York form a distinctive 
feature of metropolitan life ; many of these establishments, 
in their extent and the brilliancy of their interior fittings, 
being scarcely excelled by the famous cafes of the French 
metropolis. The most admired and frequented are those of 
the Fifth Avenue, Metropolitan, and St. Nicholas hotels, and 



INTRODUCTION. xiii 

the Rotunda of the Astor House. The bars of the three first- 
named afford fine specimens of a kind of adornment much 
in vogue in the metropolis. The Oyster Saloons are numer- 
ous, and generally well conducted. Wi Hard's and the Oys- 
ter Bay, on Broadway, are famous resorts for the lovers of 
this delicious dish. 

Terms, Prices, Etc. — Charges at the leading hotels are 
$5 per day, which includes everything except wine, and extra 
apartments and attendance. At many of the smaller houses, 
moderate-sized rooms and board can be had at prices ranging 
from $3.50 to $4.50 per day ; but they are not always desirable 
on that account. As a general rule, the stranger would do 
well to patronize only those hotels mentioned in this guide. 
The prices of furnished apartments in choice localities range 
from $10 to $25 per week. When board is included, $8 to 
$10 per week more is charged. Prices at restaurants are 
wholly regulated by bill of fare, except " ordinaries " are 
served, in which case $1 to $1.50 for dinner will be found the 
average charge. We would caution the stranger in New 
York against too great haste in selecting rooms or board. 
Be not deceived by appearances. While there is no lack of 
respectable boarding and lodging houses in the city, there is 
a still larger number of establishments, known as boarding- 
houses, which the stranger will do well to avoid. 

BATHS. 

Besides the private baths, with one or more of which the 
leading hotels and first-class boarding-houses are fitted, there 
is little to tempt the stranger in New York to enjoy that 
greatest of all luxuries — a bath. There are no swimming 
baths worthy the name, except such as Nature has lavishly 



xiv INTRODUCTION. 

provided on the bay and neighboring shores. A movement 
is now on foot to secure adequate public baths suited to 
the wants and means of the poorer classes. For those fond of 
the Turkish and Russian vapor baths, the Turkish Bath Es- 
tablishment, at No. 13 Laight Street, near Canal, and those 
conducted by Dr. Guttman, at 25 East Fourth Street, will 
be found the best. The former establishment, under the pro- 
prietorship of Drs. Miller and Wood, is admirably arranged 
and conducted. It is pleasantly and centrally located, near 
the intersection of Canal and Laight streets, and is easily 
reached from Broadway, Hours : gentlemen, 6 to 8 a. m. 
and 1 to 9 P. M. ; ladies, 10 to 12 a.m. 

MINERAL WATERS. 

There is nothing more grateful or healthful, during the 
warm, enervating months of summer, than mineral waters, 
carefully prepared and judiciously used. Dr. Hanbury Smith's 
well-known establishment, " The Spa," 35 Union Square, is the 
largest and best establishment of the kind in the city. Those 
desirous of drinking these famous waters farther up town 
will find them at the pharmacy of Caswell, Hazard and Co., 
under the Fifth Avenue Hotel. At both establishments the 
waters of the more important European Spas may be drank 
at the natural temperature, from early morning till near mid- 
night. The beautiful parks in front of each establishment 
offer every opportunity for the gentle promenade so condu- 
cive to the proper action of the healing waters. But, in ad- 
dition to these larger " headquarters," nearly all the respect- 
able druggists in the city are supplied with Hanbury Smith's 
Kissingen (Rakoczi), Vichy, Seltzer, and other popular 
waters, so that one has seldom more than a block or two to 



INTRODUCTION. xv 

go, in order to enjoy this great luxury and convenience — a 
glass of fresh, cool, sparkling mineral water. John Gelston, 
successor to A. J. Delatour, at 25 \ Wall Street, below Broad, 
dispenses excellent soda and mineral waters. The plain 
soda manufactured at this establishment has been in high 
repute for half a century. Orders for these famous waters 
will be promptly supplied, both in city and country. 

PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 

The Academy of Music (Opera House), destroyed by fire, 
May 21, 1866, and rebuilt in 1S67, is at the intersection of 
East Fourteenth Street and Irving Place. 
-The Grand Opera House, (late Pike's) 23rd Street and 8th 
Avenue, is a large and costby edifice. The interior arrangement 
of this building is better, and the decorations more sumptu- 
ous, than those of any other dramatic establishment in the 
country. 

Boot/is Theatre, corner of 23rd Street and 6th Avenue, re- 
cently completed, is an elegant structure, with sittings for 
2,500 persons. The Shakeperian Drama is produced at this 
theatre in a style unsurpassed by any other theatre in the 
Union. 

The French Opera House is on West Fourteenth Street, 
near Sixth Avenue. 

Among the other dramatic institutions of the city, the best 
conducted and the best worthy of patronage are the Fifth Ave- 
nue {Brougham's), in 24th Street ; Niblo's, under the Metro- 
politan Hotel, Broadway, between Prince and Houston ; and 
Wallack's, at the corner of Broadway and Thirteenth Street. 
At Wallack's, the old-school comedies are rendered in a style 
unequalled by any other theatre in the country. The Olympic 
Theatre is in Broadway, between Houston and Bleecker 



xvi INTRODUCTION. 

streets ; Wood's Museum and Theatre is on Broadway, at 
the corner of 30th Street. The Old Bowery Theatre, in the 
Bowery, near Canal Street, occupies a site upon which three 
theatres have been successively burnt and rebuilt. The 
performances here are spectacular and highly sensational. 
The Stadt Theatre (German Opera) is also in the Bowery, 
nearly opposite the Old Bowery Theatre. The New York 
Circus, and the Tammany (Dramatic and Terpsichorean and 
Acrobatic performances), are on East Fourteenth Street, be- 
tween Irving Place and 3d Avenue. 

The Waverley Theatre, 720 Broadway. 

The Theatre Comique (Lingard's), 514 Broadway. 

Bryant's Hall (Minstrels), 14th Street, near 3d Avenue. 

Apollo ^//(Miscellaneous), Broadway and 28th Street. 

San Francisco Minstrels, 585 Broadway. 

Central Park Garden, 7th Avenue and 58th Street. 

The hour of commencement at the most of these establish- 
ments is 8 o'clock. Matinees during the season at the lead- 
ing houses, every Saturday, at 2 p. M. Seats at the opera 
and at the leading theatres can be engaged at the principal 
hotels and Broadway music stores. 

PARKS, SQUARES, ETC. 

New York has fourteen public grounds known as parks or 
squares. Of these by far the largest and most frequented is 
the Central Park. This magnificent public ground is situated 
on the eastern slope of an elevated ridge, extending along 
the western side of the island, in the upper part of the city, 
between the Fifth and the Eighth Avenues, east and west, 
and Fifty-ninth and One Hundred and Tenth streets, south 
and north. It embraces an area of 843 acres, extending 



INTRODUCTION. xvii 

about two and a half miles in length by nearly half a mile in 
■ breadth. 

The ordinance creating the Commissioners of the Central 
Park was passed May 19, 1856, and the surveys were begun 
early in June following. The Park is divided into three sec- 
tions of unequal extent, known as the Lower, Central, and 
Upper Parks. 

The Lower Park contains an area of 336 acres, and extends 
from Fifty-ninth to Seventy-ninth streets. This was the 
first improved portion of the grounds, and may very properly 
'~>e regarded as the park proper. 

The Old and New Reservoirs occupy a considerable portion 
of the central division of the grounds. Above the reservoirs, 
reaching to One Hundred and Tenth Street, is the section 
popularly known as the Upper Park. This, though little im- 
proved, has greater natural attractions than any other por- 
tion of the park, and will, in the course of a few years, be the 
most frequented. The whole cost of the park, ir.r^'^'ng the 
purchase of the grounds, thus far, has been upward of ten 
millions of dollars. The attendance has been large, and is 
steadily increasing. In 1862, upward of four millions of 
people visited it ; in 1S63, four and a half millions ; in 1864, 
nearly six millions ; and in 1868, upward of ten millions. 
The number of carriages which entered the gates during the 
last year were 1,748,161. 

The best point at which to enter the park on foot is at 
^ixth Avenue and Fifty-ninth Street. The chief carriage 
entrance is at Fifth Avenue and Fifty-ninth Street ; but the 
stranger visiting Central Park will have no difficulty in reach- 
ing the park from almost any direction. Gateways for the 
four entrances on Fifty-ninth Street are about to be erected, 
from designs by Hunt. The park is open every day in the 



xviii INTRODUCTION. 

year — during the winter and spring months from 6 to 9 
o'clock, and in the skating season till midnight. During 
July, August, and September, from 5 a. m. to 11 p. m. 

The Old and New Reservoirs constitute prominent features 
of the Park. The former is 1,826 feet in length and 835 feet 
wide, and has a capacity of 150,000,000 gallons. The latter, 
constructed at the time of the park, is a gigantic work, and, 
considered in connection with the Croton Aqueduct and the 
admirable water system of New York, is worthy the attention 
of every stranger. The area of this vast basin is 106 acres, 
and its capacity over 1,000,000,000 gallons. The nearest ap- 
proach is by the gates at Ninetieth and Ninety-sixth streets, 
on the Fifth Avenue. The summit of the reservoir walls 
serves as a pleasant promenade, and commands a fine view. 
The gate-houses are massive structures of stone. 

The Lakes are among the most attractive features of the 
Park ; they are five in number, and embrace an area of 43^ 
acres. The largest is a beautiful sheet of water, lying between 
Seventy-second and Seventy-ninth streets. Pleasure boats 
are kept for hire. Some fine specimens of native and imported 
swans are to be seen on the lake. In the skating season it is 
resorted to by thousands of both sexes. The Marble Arch is 
a fine structure, near the lower end of the Park, and not far 
from the Mall. The Mall, a quarter of a mile in length, and 
covered with a beautiful growth of grass, furnishes a delight- 
ful promenade. At the upper extremity of the Mall is the 
Music Pavilion. On band days (Wednesdays and Satur- 
days, 3.30 to 5 o'clock P. M.) the attendance in this part of the 
grounds is unusually large and brilliant. West of the Mall, 
and between it and the Drive, stand the oak and elm planted 
by the Prince of Wales, in i860. 

Descending from the Terrace, which forms the upper part 



INTRODUCTION. xix 

of the Mall, and the plateau which it traverses, the visitor is 
conducted by a flight of stairs to the Lake. The Ramble, 
covering an area of 36 acres of sloping hills, extends 
from the Old Reservoir to Central Lake. It abounds in 
pleasant shady walks, and is much frequented b) r Park vis- 
itors. The Stone Arch, on the western slope of the Ramble, 
is much admired. The Cave and the Tunnel ate also objects 
of interest. 

The Museum is contained in a castellated structure for- 
merly occupied as a State arsenal, near Fifth Avenue and 
Sixty-fourth Street. The art collection is small, but of 
much promise. Here, during the winter months, are housed 
the few animals which it is intended will form the nucleus 
of a future Zoological Garden. The Green, Play-grouna, 
Dovecot, and the Knoll, are all frequented spots in the Park. 
The elevation of the last named point is 137 feet above tide- 
water in the river. It is said to be the highest ground in the 
Park, and commands a fine view of it. The Refectory, in 
the Lower Park, near the Mall, is a pleasant place to sojourn 
a while after a stroll or drive through the Park. If the 
keepers would improve their cuisine and keep better fare, 
they would render it still more pleasant. The Boulevard 
Drive, when finished, will be one of the great features of 
Central Park. It will extend northward from the Park five 
miles to King's Bridge, on Spuyten Duyvel Creek. To 
those visiting the Park during the winter months, the road 
traversing the western side of the Middle Park, between 
Seventy-second and One Hundred and Second streets, known 
as the Winter Drive, will be found very attractive. Mc- 
Goivans Pass, the Bluff, the Arboretum, and the Nursery, are 
all reached at the upper or northern extremity of the ground. 
The grounds, as at present laid out, embrace 10 miles of 



xx INTRODUCTION. 

carriage road, 6 miles of finished bridle road, and upward 
of 30 miles of gravel walk. 

The stranger who visits Central Park will care little for 
the older, but less known and popular, public grounds and 
squares. 

The Battery, at the extreme south end of Manhattan Island, 
contains 10 acres, and commands a fine view of the Bay and 
islands. Castle Garden, on the Battery, was at one time a 
popular public hall. Here Jenny Lind first sang in America. 
It is now used for the purposes of the Board of Emigration. 

The Bowling Green, so called from its use prior to the 
Revolution, is situated at the intersection of Broadway with 
Battery Street. It is of an oval form, and surrounded by an 
iron railing. It is the oldest public ground in the city, hav- 
ing served as the Dutch parade-ground and market-place. 
It was enclosed in 1732. 

The City Park is a triangular enclosure of 10 acres, and 
contains the old and new City Halls, County Court-House, 
and other municipal buildings. 

Washington Square. — Fourth Street and Waverley Place. 
New York University. 

Union Square is bounded by Broadway, Fourth Avenue, 
and 14th and 17th streets. The equestrian statue of Wash- 
ington, on this square, is considered the finest in the Union. 

Stuyvesant Square. — Second Avenue, 15th and 17th streets. 

Gramercy Park. — 20th Street, between Third and Fourth 
avenues. 

Madison Square. — Broadway, Fifth Avenue and 23rd Street. 

Hamilton Square. — Third Avenue, 66th and 69th streets. 

Tompkins Square is between Avenues A and B, and 7th 
and 10th streets. 



INTRODUCTION. 



xxi 



PIERS AND LANDINGS. 

Frequent delays and much consequent vexation and incon- 
venience will be saved the tourist around New York, by a 
proper acquaintance with the location of the numerous piers, 
and steamboat and ferry landings. Of the former there are 1 1 2 
in all, which are pretty evenly divided between the North and 
East rivers. The following table is so arranged as to serve 
the two-fold purpose of a pier and cross-town street direc- 
tor) 7 . 

LOCATION OF PIERS. 



NORTH RIVER. 

I, Battery Place. 
2 & 3, Battery Place and 
Morris Street. 

4, Morris Street. 

5, 6, & 7, Morris and Rector 

Streets. 
8, Rector Street. 
9 & 10, Rector and Carlisle 

Streets. 

11, Carlisle Street. 

12, Albany Street. 

13, Albany and Cedar Streets. 

14, Cedar Street. 

15, Liberty Street. 

16, Liberty and Cortlandt 

Streets. 
17 & 18, Cortlandt Street. 

19, Cortlandt and Dey Streets < 

20, Dey Street, 



EAST RIVER. 

i & 2, Whitehall Street. 

3, Moore Street. 

4, Moore and Broad Streets. 

5, Broad Street and Coenties 

Slip. 

6, 7, & 8, Coenties Slip. 

9 & 10, Coenties & Old Slip. 
11 & 12, Old Slip. 

13, Old Slip & Gouverneur la. 

14, Jones Lane. 

15 & 16, Wall Street. 

17, Pine Street. 

18, Maiden Lane. 

19, Fletcher Street. 
20 & 21, Burling Slip. 

22, Fulton Street. 

23, Beekman Street. 

24, Beekman and Peck Slip. 
25 & 26, Peck Slip. 



XX11 



INTRODUCTION. 



21 
22 

25 
26 

27 

28 

29 
30 
31 
32 

33 
34 
35 
36 
37 
38 
39 
40 
41 
42 
43 
44 
45 
46 

47 

48 

49 

5o 

51 



NORTH RIVER. 

Fulton Street. 
23 & 24, Fulton and Vesey 
Streets. 
Vesey Street. 
Vesey and Barclay Streets. 
Robinson Street. 
Murray Street. 
Warren Street. 
Chambers Street. 
Duane Street. 
Duane and Jay Streets. 
Jay Street. 
Harrison Street. 
Franklin Street. 
North Moore. 
Beach Street. 
Hubert Street. 
Vestry Street. 
Watts Street. 
Hoboken Street. 
Canal Street. 
Spring Street. 
Spring and Charlton Sts. 
Charlton Street. 
King Street. 
West Houston Street. 
Clarkson Street. 
Leroy Street. 
Morton Street, 
Christopher Street. 



EAST RIVER. 

27, Dover Street. 

28, Dover and Roosevelt Sts. 

29, Roosevelt Street. 

30, Roosevelt St. and James 

Slip. 
31 & 32, James Slip. 
33, Oliver Street. 
34 & 35, Catharine Street. 
36, Catharine and Market 

Streets. 
37 & 38, Market Street. 
39, Market and Pike Streets. 
40 & 41, Pike Street. 
42, Pike and Rutgers Streets. 
43 & 44, Rutgers Street. 

45, Rutgers and Jefferson Sts. 

46, Jefferson Street. 

47, Jefferson and Clinton Sts. 

48, Clinton Street. 

49, Clinton and Montgomery 

Streets. 

50, Montgomery Street. 

51 & 52, Gouverneur Street. 

53, Jackson Street. 

54, Orleans Street. 

55, Cherry Street. 

56 & 57, Broome Street. 
58 & 59, Delancy Street. 

60, Rivington Street. 

61, Rivington and Stanton Sts 



INTRODUCTION. xxiii 

FERRIES. 

There are thirty-four ferry lines making regular trips be- 
tween New York and adjacent landings. Of these, twenty- 
three ply on the East, and eleven on the North River. 

TO FROM 

Astoria Fulton Street. 

Brooklyn, Atlantic Street (So. Fer.). Whitehall Street. 

" Bridge Street James Slip. 

" Division Avenue Grand Street. 

" " " Roosevelt Street. 

11 Fulton Street Fulton Street. 

" Grand Street Grand Street. 

" " Houston Street. 

" Greenpoint Tenth Street. 

" " 23d Street, East River. 

" Hamilton Avenue Battery. 

" Hudson Avenue Jackson Street. 

" Hunter's Point James' Slip. 

" " 34th Street, East River. 

" Montague Street Wall Street. 

" Main Street Catharine Street. 

Blackwell's Island 61st Street, East River. 

Elizabethport Liberty Street. 

Fort Lee Pier No. 51, North River. 

Hoboken Barclay Street. 

Christopher Street. 

Harlem Peck Slip. 

Jersey City Desbrosses Street. 

Central R. R. of N. J. . .Liberty Street. 

" Erie R. R Chambers Street. 

" Long Dock, N. J " 

" New Jersey R. R Cortlandt Street. 



XXIV 



INTRODUCTION. 



TO FROM 

Mott Haven. Peck Slip. 

Staten Island, North Shore Pier No 19, North River. 

" New Brighton } 

" Stapleton - Whitehall Street. 

" Vanderbilt's Landing ' 

Ward's Island East 110th Street. 

Weehawken, N. J West 42d Street. 



TABLE OF DISTANCES. 



STREET. MILES. 

To Leonard £ 

" Canal \ 

" Spring £ 

" Houston 1 

" 4th ij 

" 9th i-J- 

" 14th if 

" 19th 2 

" 24th 2\ 

" 29th 1\ 



FROM CITY HALL. 

STREET. MILES. 
To 34th 2f 



38th 
44th 
49th 
54th 
58th 
63d. 

68th 

73d- 
78th 



■3 

•3i 

■3* 

•31 
•4 
•4i 
■4i 

•4f 

■5 



STREET. MILES. 

To8 3 d 5i 

88th 5i 

93d 5l 

97th 6 

io2d 6£ 

107th 6| 

112th 6f 

117th 7 

121st 7i 

126th 7i 



LIBRARIES AND READING-ROOMS. 

The first public library was established in 1700. The city 
now possesses upward of thirty public libraries and read- 
ing-rooms. 

The Astor, Lafayette Place ; hours 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. 

The Mercantile, Eighth Street, near Broadway; 8 a.m. to 10 
p.m. (Reading-Room.) 

The New York Society,^ University Place; 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. 
Reading-room (a member's introduction is required). 

University, Washington Square and Waverley Place. 



INTRODUCTION. . xxv 

The Historical, 2d Avenue and nth Street; 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. 

The Apprentices, 472 Broadway ; 9 A.M. to 9 p.m. 

American Institute, 21 and 23 Cooper Institute, 9 a.m. to 

9 p.m. 

Cooper Institute, 3d and 4th Avenues, and Astor Place. 

(Reading-room.) 

American Geographical and Statistical, Cooper Institute, 2d 
floor. 

Columbia College Library, 50th Street, near 5th Avenue. 

City Library, Room 12, City Hall. 

Law Lnstitute, 41 Chambers Street. 

Young Mens Christian, 76 Varick Street ; 8 A.M. to 10 P.M. 

Union Theological Seminary, 9 University Place. 

ART SOCIETIES AND GALLERIES. 

The National Academy of Design — the chief art institution 
of America — was founded in 1S26, since which time it has 
steadily advanced in influence and usefulness. It stands at 
the corner of Fourth Avenue and Twenty-third Street, front- 
ing on the latter. The front is constructed of Westchester 
County marble, banded with greyu^acke ; is in the Gothic 
style of architecture of the thirteenth century, and presents 
a unique and pleasing appearance. The main gates and ex- 
ternal ornamental iron-work are generally admired. No paint 
is used on the woodwork of the building. The grand stair- 
way leading to the art galleries is of solid oak, trimmed with 
walnut. Besides the central hall, picture galleries, and 
sculpture room, which are in the third story, it contains lec- 
ture, reading, library, and council rooms. It was erected in 
1863, under the superintendence of P. B. Wright, architect, 
and cost $150,000. It numbers among its academicians and 
associates nearly all of the eminent artists of the city and 



xxvi * INTRODUCTION. 

vicinity. Annual exhibitions of the Academy are held in 
April, May, June, and July, closing on the 4th of the last- 
named month. Admission, twenty-five cents. 

The Artists' Fund Society, founded in 1859, makes an an- 
nual exhibition and sale of works of art, in the months of 
November and December, in the Academy Building. 

The Artists' Studio Building \s at No. 51 Tenth Street, 
near the Sixth Avenue. Dodworth's, 212 Fifth Avenue, 
Madison Square, is another famous resort of the knights of 
the easel, and so too is the University in Washington Park. 

Free Galleries for the exhibition and sale of works of Art, 
are to be found at Goupil's (M. Knoedler), late of 722 Broad- 
way, corner of Ninth Street, and now at 170 Fifth Avenue, 
corner of 22d Street ; at Schaus's No. 749 Broadway ; Sned- 
ecor's, 768 Broadway. Goupil's is now in the twenty-third 
year of its establishment in New York. The collection of 
eno-ravings embraces some from the best masters. The lead- 
ino- photographic galleries are Gumey's, on Fifth Avenue, at 
the intersection of 16th Street, and Sarony's, 680 Broadway. 
No lover of the photographic art — no one who wants a good 
picture (and who does not?) should omit visiting the elegant 
galleries of the Messrs. Gurney {pere et fits), which occupy 
the whole upper portion of the late handsome residence, No. 
108 Fifth Avenue. Gurney's pictures are executed in the 
highest style of photographic art. There is a free exhibition 
of pictures from 10 A. M. to 5 P. M. Brady, on Broadway, at 
the corner of Ninth Street, makes good pictures. 

EXPRESS COMPANIES. 

Adams' 59 Broadway ; Spring and Broadway. 

American 115 Broadway ; 61 Hudson Street. 

American-European 72 Broadway. 



INTRODUCTION. xxvu 

A storia and Ravenswood ¥/■ 117 John Sti eet. 

Bergen 73 Cortlandt Street. 

Brooklyn and New York (Simonson's). .71 Cortlandt Street. 

City (Bogardus) 67 Franklin Street. 

Denning's Pier 30, N. R. 

Dodd's foot Cortlandt, and 280 Canal Street. 

East New York 117 John Street. 

Fort Washington and Carmansville 280 Canal Street. 

Flushing (Lawrence's). 180 South Street. 

Flatbush (Smith's) 117 John Street. 

General Express Office 88 Franklin Street. 

Gowanus 117 John Street. 

Greenpoint 12 Vesey Street. 

Hamden's 280 Canal, and 65 Broadway. 

Hemingway's Baggage Express 309 West Street. 

Hempstead and Jamaica 117 John Street. 

Hoboken (Merchant's) 222 Greenwich Street. 

Hope 59 Broadway. 

Hudson City and Waverley 66 Cortlandt Street. 

Jamaica 117 John Street. 

Kennedy's City 47 John Street. 

Kinsley & Co. Express. . . 72 Broadway and 280 Canal Street. 

Knickerbocker. 114 Reade Street. 

Long Island Express Co foot James Slip. 

Manhattanville (Rowden). 280 Canal Street. 

Nassau • 30 Broadway. 

Metropolitan Fur. & Baggage Ex. 140 Varick Street. 

Morrisania Express. J 117 John Street. 

National Express Co 65 Broadway, and 280 Canal Street. 

New Haven Trans K Co 18 West Broadway. 

New Jersey Express Co foot Cortlandt Street. 

Orange TI 7 John Street. 



xxviii INTRODUCTION. 

Paterson Express Co 187 Chambers Street. 

People's (J. B. Wass) 72 Broad 

Staten Island (North Shore) Pier 19, N. R. 

Studley's 4U1 Ave. & 27th Street. 

Trader's Express Co 8 Park Place. 

U. S. Express 82 Broadway. 

Williamsburg 280 Canal Street. 

Yonkers (Riker's) 88 Franklin and 117 John Street. 

Yorkville and Harlem 280 Canal Street. 

TELEGRlPil COMPANIES. 

American 125 Broadway. [ United States. .117 Broadway 

Erie Railroad, .foot Duane st. West'n Union. 145 Broadway 
People's. 21 Wall & 25 Wm.st 

There are branch offices in all the principal hotels in the 
city. 

RATE OF CHARGES. 



To 10 words. Every extra word. 



To 10 words. Every extra word. 



Halifax $3 50.21 cents. 

Montreal 1 10. 7 " 

San Francisco 7 45.57 " 



Boston. . . .$0 60. . . 5 cents. 
Chicago. . . 2 05 ... 14 " 
Cincinnati. I 90...13 " 
Hartford . . 45 ... 4 " 

No charges are made for the signature or address. An 
additional charge of ten cents is made for the delivery of 
messages to private residences in the city. 

FIRST-CLASS BUSINESS HOUSES. 

In the hurry and bustle incident to a short visit to New 
York, patrons of the Guide will find the following directory 
of first-class business houses very useful : 



INTRODUCTION. xxix 

The leading business thoroughfares of New York, Broad- 
way, Canal Street, and the Bowery, are famous for the fine 
stores they contain. 

Banking Houses. — Duncan, Sherman & Co., corner Pine 
and Nassau, and Brown Brothers, 59 Wall Street. Travel- 
ers desiring letters of credit, foreign or domestic exchange, 
will find these desirable houses to deal with. 

Newspapers. — The magnificent printing establishments of 
the New York Herald, the Times, the Tribtine, the Sun, and 
Bonner's Ledger, are well worth seeing. 

Publishing Houses. — Those of the Messrs. Appleton, 90, 
92, and 94 Grand Street, and the extensive establishment of 
the Harpers, in Franklin Square, will each well reward a visit. 

Jewellers, etc. — The establishments of Tiffany & Co., 550 
Broadway, and of Ball, Black & Co., corner of Broadway and 
Prinee Street, are the finest and most extensive of their kind 
in the country. 

Dry-Goods. — The great dry-goods palaces of A. T. Stewart 
& Co., Broadway, corner of 10th, of Lord & Taylor, 461 
Broadway, and 259 Grand Street, and of H. B. Claf- 
lin & Co., 140 Church Street ; of Arnold, Constable & 
Co., and of James McCreery & Co., recently opened in 
Broadway, should not be omitted by those who would judge 
of the city's trade. 

Piano-fortes. — Weber has just opened his fine sales-room 
on Fifth Avenue, at the intersection of 16th Street. Weber's 
Grand, Square and Upright Pianos have no superior in the 
country. Steinway & Sons, 71 E. Fourteenth Street. 

Rubber fabrics— The N. Y. Belting and Packing Co., 37 
and 38 Park Row. 

Fire Insurance. — The Home Insurance Company, 135 
Broadway, and the North American, 114 Broadway, are 



xxx INTRODUCTION. 

among the oldest and most reliable companies in New 
York. 

Life Insurance.—^. Y. Mutual, 114 Broadway; Mutual, 
144 and 146 Broadway; Empire Mutual, 139 Broadway; 
and Continental, 22, 24, and 26 Nassau Street. 

Clothing. — Mr. D. Russell, at 835 Broadway, corner of 
Thirteenth: Street, has the latest fashions for gentlemen's 
custom-work.. The goods made up by Russell are bought 
and imported direct from the best manufacturers in Europe, 
under his. own. personal supervision. 

Trunks. ^Mf..J r R. Gillmore, 24 Fourth Avenue, manu- 
factures the best of trunks, and is the sole agent for the sale 
of House's Patent India Rubber Shields, which, when attach- 
ed to trunks, is a great preventive of baggage smashing. 

Gentlemen's Clothing and Furnishing.— Brooks Broth- 
ers' magnificent new store, on Union Square, contains the 
largest arid-most varied assortment of every thing in the way 
of gentlemen's! clothing. 

Landscape and Marine. Glasses for travelers.— The best as- 
sortment ;6f a first-rate quality are to be found at Semmons > 
687, late qf 6604, Broadway. 

Fumitwvihnd: Housekeeping Articles.— (Late J. & C. Ber- 
rian), 601 Broadway. 

Art' Materials and Picture Galleries.— Gondii & Co. (M. 
Knoedler* -successor) ■ Schaus, 749 Broadway. 

Billiard. Tables. ,-^Phelan & Collender, in Broadway, be- 
tween WaverTey and Clinton places. 

Among -the .'.most prominent and noteworthy objects of 
commercial interest on Broadway, are the extensive clothing 
and furnishing houses of Messrs. Brooks Brothers, Union 
Square, and Devlin & Co., and the extensive China-ware es- 
tablishment of Messrs. Haughwout, at the N. E. corner of 
Broome Street- 



THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 



ROUTE 1. 

Up The Hudson. 




LACE aux Fleuve ! The Noble River ! As well 
visit Naples and forget Vesuvius, or go to Rome 
and not see St. Peter's, as to come to New York 
and fail to voyage up the Hudson. 
What the Thames above Westminster is to the Lon- 
doner, or the Seine is to the Parisian, the Hudson— only 
on a much grander and more impressive scale — is to the deni- 
zens of our growing metropolis. No more lovely waterway in 
the wide world than this. European travelers are never 
tired of comparing it with the Rhine ; but, indeed, there are 
but few points of resemblance between the two rwers. The 
beauties of the Hudson are those of Nature, and not antiquity, 
as is the case with its famous Old World rival. As the author 
of the " Book of the Hudson" has well remarked, the past has 
left scarcely a record upon the shores of this river ; it is full 
of the living present, illustrating by its general aspect the 



6 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

free thought and free action which are giving strength and 
solidity to the young and vigorous nation within whose 
bosom its bright waters flow. 

What serves to render this trip doubly delightful to the 
tourist and pleasure seeker, are the unrivaled facilities for 
travel which it presents. The great size and beauty of the 
hoats navigating it, and the convenience, comfort, and luxury 
of their appointments, all equally astonish and delight the 
traveler, and furnish matter for pleasant wonder and study 
whenever the opportunity is offered amid the more pressing 
attractions on the way. 

Those wishing to note the beauties of the river, should, 
of course, take the day-boats. Let us then start as the morn- 
ing sun is falling upon the thousand sail which fill the beauti- 
ful harbor of New York. Scarcely have our eyes taken in 
half the beauties of this superb panorama — the roofs, and 
spires, and domes of the great metropolis on one side ; Jersey 
City upon the opposite shore ; the fortresses of Governor's, 
Bedloe's, and Ellis's Islands, and of Fort Hamilton ; the 
shores of Long Island, and the villa banks of Staten Island 
beyond, with the far-off perspective of the hill-bound " Nar- 
rows " — before we must turn our backs upon it all, to gaze 
upon the yet more charming scenes which are presented to 
us as our steamer ploughs the river northward. 

On we sail, past the streets and wharves of the city, which 
seem interminable in succession ; but our eyes fall upon the 
wooded shores at last, upon elegant country villas peeping 
out from among the trees on the one hand, and the tall cliffs 
of the far-reaching Palisades on the other. The wilderness 
of brick and stone fades away, and is forgotten in the pres- 
ence of green fields and rustling woods. Even the suburban 
charms of Hoboken, and the precipices of Weehawken, with 



UP THE HUDSON. 7 

its grave and memories of the unfortunate Hamilton, give 
place, in our esteem, to the more rural landscape upon 
which we now enter. Let us glance as closely as our rapid 
flight will permit, at each passing village, city, and scene. 
First come 

The Palisades. — These grand precipices, rising to the 
hight of 500 feet, follow in unbroken line as far as that 
great bay of the river called the Tappan Zee, a distance of 
20 miles. They do not wholly terminate, however, until we 
reach Haverstraw, 36 miles from New York. The rock is 
trap, columnar in formation, something after the fashion of 
the famous Giant's Causeway and Fingal's Cave. They lend 
great beauty to the picture as we start upon our journey, 
and to all the pictures of the river, of which they form a part. 

Guttenburg, opposite 70th Street, is a recent German 
settlement overlooking the river, famous for its extensive 
brewery. 

Bull's Ferry, opposite 90th Street, now lies upon our 
left. It is a favorite summer resort and residence of New 
Yorkers. In the hot months, the ferry-boats, continually ply- 
ing thither, at a fare of only \i\ cents, are thronged with pas- 
sengers. 

Blooniingdale, a suburban village five miles from the 
City Hall, is now upon our right. The Orphan Asylum, 
Audubon Park, and Trinity Church Cemetery, in the neigh- 
borhood of Washington Hights, will repay a visit. 

Fort IjCC, ten miles up the river, and opposite 160th 
Street, New York, now recalls us to the western shore. It 
crowns the lofty brows of the Palisades, which are here 300 
feet high. Some interesting memories of the days of the 
American Revolution are awakened here. The anxious 
thoughts of Washington and his generals turned to thw 



8 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

point in that eventful period. A fortification here stood up- 
on the hights, which was called Mount Constitution ; and 
here it was attempted, by the express command of Congress, 
to obstruct the navigation of the river, by every art and at 
whatever expense, " as well to prevent the egress of the 
enemy's frigates, lately gone up, as to hinder them from receiv- 
ing succors." A large force of Americans, in retreating 
from Fort Lee, were overpowered, and either slain or taken 
prisoners by a greatly superior body of Hessian troops. The 
Northern Railway of New Jersey connects Fort Lee with 
Englewood and Piermont. The Palisade House, at Engle- 
wood, offers good accommodations for visitors. 

Fort Washington, another spot of deep historical in- 
terest, stands on a steep projecting cliff, between 181st and 
185th Streets, nearly opposite to Fort Lee, and io£ miles from 
the City Hall. Like that locality, it reminds us of the most try- 
ing hours of the trying times in American story. It fell into 
the hands of the enemy, November 16th, 1776, and the garri- 
son of 3,000 men became prisoners of war. Two days after, 
November 18th, Lord Cornwallis, with 6,000 men, crossed 
the river, at Dobb's Ferry, and attacked Fort Lee. The 
garrison there, then commanded by General Greene, made 
a hasty retreat to the encampment of the main army, under 
Washington, five miles back, at Hackensack. All the bag- 
gage and stores fell into the hands of the enemy. Had the 
English general followed up his successes at this period 
with proper celerity and energy, he would most likely have 
effectually crippled the American army. The fort was a strong 
earthwork of irregular form, covering several acres. Some 
20 heavy cannons, besides smaller arms, bristled upon its 
walls, though its strength lay chiefly in its position. The very 
spot where the old fort once stood, as well as all the region 



UP THE HUDSON. 9 

round, is now covered by the peaceful and fragrant lawns 
and gardens of elegant villa residences. Just below the 
high ground once occupied by Fort Washington, Washing- 
ton Hights, and close by the river, is the promontory of 
Jeffrey's Hook. A redoubt was constructed here as a cov- 
ering to the chevaux-de-frise in the channel. The banks of 
this work are still plainly to be seen. Above Fort Wash- 
ington, and still upon the eastern side of the river, was Fort 
Tryon. The site now lies between 195th and igSth Streets, 
New York. Not far beyond, is the northern boundary of 
Manhattan Island — the little waters, famous in history and 
story, as Spuyten Duyvel Creek.* Hard by (217th Street) 
was a redoubt of two guns, called Cock Hill Fort ; and upon 
Tetard's Hill, across the creek, was Fort Independence, a 
square redoubt with bastions. 

There was still another military work here, strengthened 
by the British in 1781, and named Fort Prince. The upper 
end of the island of New York, where we have lingered so 
long, is rich in scenes and memories of interest ; and the 
beautiful landscape is yet embellished by abundant traces of 
its early history. A pleasant visit may be made from the 
Hights to the High Bridge, to Morris House, and to the 
Grange, the house of Gen. Alexander Hamilton, which 
stands on the Kingsbridge Road, midway between Harlem 
and Croton rivers. 

Yonkers. — Hotel : Getty House, W. H. Doty, proprie- 
tor. Yonkers, 17 miles up the North river, is an ancient set- 
tlement at the mouth of the Neperah, or Saw Mill River. 
Since the opening of the railway, it has become a fashiona- 

* This name is derived from the famous attempt of Stuyvesant's trumpeter. 
Antony Van Corlear, to swim across it — En Spuyten Duyvel — " in spite of the 
devil." 



10 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

ble suburban town of New York, as the short distance 
thence permits pleasant, speedy, and cheap transport by 
land or water. 

Yonkers was the home of the once famous family of the 
Phillippses, of which was Mary Phillipps, the first love of 
General Washington. The family exercised manorial rule 
in the neighborhood, and their ancient mansion, erected 1682, 
and 1745, and now occupied by the Hon. W. W. Woodworth, 
is the chief attraction of the place. 

East of the Manor-house is Locust Hill, where the 
American troops were encamped in 1781. Near the vil- 
lage is the spot where Colonel Gist was attacked (1778) by a 
combined force under Tarleton and others. In 1777 a naval 
action occurred in front of Yonkers, between the American 
gun-boats and the British frigates Ross and Phoenix. 

Mr. Frederic Cozzens, the writer, resides at Yonkers, and 
some pleasant reminiscences of his home may be found in 
his genial " Sparrowgrass " papers. 

Font Hill— Academy of Mount §t. Vincent. 
The " Castle " of Mr. Edwin Forest, known as Fonthill, built 
in 1838, is just below Yonkers, and two and a half miles 
north of Spuyten Duyvel Creek. It is now, together with 
a larger and more imposing edifice, owned and occupied by 
the Roman Catholic Convent and Academy of Mount St. 
Vincent. 

Hastings, three miles north of Yonkers, is a thriving 
little village ; the vicinityxontains many beautiful residences. 
The Palisades here recede from view on the opposite shore. 

I>0»to's Ferry, two miles yet beyond, and still upon the 
eastern bank of the river, is an ancient settlement, with a 
new leaven of metropolitan life, like all the places within an 
hour or two's journey from New York. The village has a 



UP THE HUDSON. H 

pleasant air, lying along the river slope, at the mouth of the 
Wisquaqua Weec-ques-quck Creek. Its name is that of an 
old family which once possessed the region and established 
a ferry. Remains of military works still exist at Dobb's Ferry. 
The Livingstone Mansion, famous as the place where Wash- 
ington in 1783 met Governor Clinton and Sir Guy Carle- 
ton, to confer about the evacuation of New York, is the 
main point of attraction. Zion Church is an old and inter- 
esting edifice. 

Irvington and " Sunnyside."— Irvington, four 
miles above, on the right bank, was once called Dearman, 
and it was expected to grow into a large town, as an outlet of 
the great Erie Railway, which touches the river opposite at 
Piermont ; but the Erie travel was afterward led to the 
metropolis through another terminus at Jersey City, and 
so Irvington is little more thar a railway station to this day. 

Dearman was rechristened Irvington, in honor of the late 
Washington Irving, whose unique little cottage of Sunnyside 
is close by, upon the margin of Wolfert Acker's Rust, 
3 miles below Tarrytown, hidden from the eye of the traveler 
only by the dense growth of the surrounding trees and 
shrubbery. It is a pretty stone cottage, the eastern side 
embowered in ivy, the earlier slips of which were presented 
to Irving by Sir Walter Scott, at Abbotsford, and were 
planted by Irving himself. Piermont, on the opposite 
(western) shore, is the freight terminus of the Erie Railway. 
The river is here 3 miles wide, and forms what is known 
as Tappan Zee. The pier projects into the river a distance 
of one mile, and marks the northern boundary of New Jersey. 
The view of the river at this point presents a fine picture. 

Cedar Hill Cottage, the residence of Mr. Lewis Gaylord 
Clark, crowns an eminence near Piermont. The house wa? 



12 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

originally built by one Woolfert Acker, an original New 
Yorker, who inscribed over his door his Dutch motto, "Just 
in Rust." It was thence called " Woolfert's Rust," since 
corrupted into "Woolfert's Roost." Between Irvington 
and Dobb's Ferry, is Nevis, once the homestead of Col. 
James Hamilton. It contains many reminiscences of Hamil- 
ton, among which is Washington's last portrait, by Stuart. 
The residences of Mr. Williams, Mr. Jaffray, and Mr. 
Cottinet, in this neighborhood, are much admired. Mr. 
Cottinet's residence, built of Caen stone, in the French style, 
is one of the handsomest mansions on the river. 

Three miles out of Piermont is Tappan, interesting as 
having been one of the chief of Washington's headquarters 
during the Revolution, and as the spot also where Major 
Andre was imprisoned and executed. The home of the 
Commander-in-Chief, and the jail of the ill-fated officer, are 
still in good preservation, though the latter house has been 
somewhat modified in its interior arrangements of late years, 
to suit its present occupancy as a tavern, under the style and 
title of the "'Seventy-six Stone-House." The old Dutch 
Church, in which Andre was tried, stood near by ; but it was 
torn down in 1836, and a new structure reared upon its site. 
The spot where the execution took place (October 2, 1780) 
is within a short walk of the Old Stone-House, in which the 
prisoner was confined. 

Nyaclfc, once famous for its quarries of red sandstone, is 
on the west side of the river, above Piermont. The Smith- 
sonian House is open to visitors. Rockland Lake, famous 
for its winter crops of ice, is within easy drive of Nyack. 
Oak Hill Cemetery is a pretty spot, in view from the river. 

Tarrytown, 20 miles from New York, is a prosperous 
little town on the eastern bank of the Hudson, connected 



UP THE HUDSON. 13 

with Nyack by ferry. It is the principal point of departure 
for the region rendered classic by Irving, and thence many a 
a pleasing pilgrimage is made. 

A short distance u»p the Pocanteco is the quiet little valley 
of Sleepy Hollow, the scene of some of Irving's happiest fan- 
cies. CarTs Mill and the bridge over the brook are still 
standing. The principal objects of interest in the village are 
those connected with Irving's life and memory, the Old 
Dutch Church, and near by St. Mark's, better known as the 
Memorial Church, the corner-stone of which was laid July 4, 
1866. It stands on Broadway, where Ichabod Crane, the 
village schoolmaster, encountered the "headless horseman," 
and but a few yards from the spot where Andre was cap- 
tured. It is in contemplation to place a marble statue of 
Irving in the vestibule of the church. His grave is behind 
the old church, and in full view of the noble river. 

During the Revolution, Tarrytown witnessed many stormy 
fights between those lawless and marauding bands of both 
British and Americans, known as " Skinners " and " Cow- 
boys." It was upon a spot now in the heart of Tarrytown 
that Major Andre was arrested while returning to the British 
lines, after a visit to General Arnold. A simple monument — 
an obelisk of granite — now marks the spot, his remains 
having been removed to Westminster Abbey in 1821. At 
Greensburg, three miles east of Tarrytown, is a monument to 
Isaac Van Wart, one of the captors, who died in 1828. 

Sing Sing, 33 miles. — Hotel: American House. — Sing 
Sing is on the right bank, and in its acclivitous topography, 
upon a slope of 200 feet, it makes a fine appearance from the 
water. The greatest breadth of the Hudson, nearly four 
miles, is at this point. Many fine country-seats crown the 
hights of this pleasant village. It is distinguished for its 



14 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

educational establishments ; for its vicinage to the mouth of 
the Croton River, from whence the city of New York derives 
jts abundant supply of water ; and for being the seat of the 
State Prison. The name is derived from an Indian word,, 
meaning " Strong Place." 

The Croton enters the Hudson two miles above the vil- 
lage, where its artificial passage to the metropolis is begun. 
The great aqueduct at this point is especially interesting,. 
D eing carried over the Sing Sing Hill by an arch of stone 
masonry, 88 feet between the abutments, and ioo feet above 
the water. It was commenced in 1835, and the entire work 
completed in 1842, at a cost of $14,000,000. 

The State Prison is located on the banks of the Hudson, 
nearly three-quarters of a mile south of the village. The 
buildings are large structures, erected by the convicts them- 
selves, with material from the marble and limestone quarries 
which abound here, and which many of them are continually 
employed in working. The prisons form three sides of a 
square. The main edifice is 484 feet long, 44 feet wide, and 
five stories high, with cells for 1,000 occupants, 869 of which 
were filled in 1852. In 1861 over 1,300 were confined here. 
The female prisoners are lodged in a fine edifice, some 30 or 
40 rods east of the male department. The prisoners are 
guarded by sentinels, instead of being Inclosed by walls.. 
The whole area covered by the establishment is about 130 
acres. The railway passes through and beneath the prisons,, 
but from the river they are seen to advantage. 

Croton (Teller's) Point, a prominent headland dividing 
Haverstraw Bay from the Tappan Zee, four miles above 
Sing Sing, is noteworthy for its famous lake, which supplies 
the metropolis with water. The dam is 250 feet long, 40 feet 
high, and 70 feet thick at the base. The capacity of the lake 



UP THE HUDSON. 15 

is 500,000,000 gallons, and it .discharges 40,000,000 to 
60,000,000 daily. Dr. Underbill's graperies are worth 
seeing. 

Verdrieteges' Hook, opposite Sing Sing, is a com- 
manding hight, with such a deceptive appearance, viewed 
from the river above and below, of a grand headland, that it 
has been christened Point-no-Point. Upon this mountain 
summit lies Rockland Lake. (See JVyack.) 

Haverstraiv, 36 miles, is also on the west side, one mile 
from the river. It is a pleasant and prosperous place, with 
attractive scenery. 

VerpUincK s Point, on the east side, is the spot at which 
Hendrick Hudson's ship, the Half Moon, first came ta 
anchor after leaving the mouth of the river. Three miles 
above is Stony Point, the site of a fort during the Revolution. 
This fort was stormed and carried by General Wayne, July 
16, 1779. The present light-house and bell-tower mark the 
site of the magazine of the old fort, and being objects of 
much interest, are always pointed out. Half way between 
the Point and Haverstraw may still be seen the house where 
Arnold and Andre met and consulted. It is of stone, with a. 
piazza in front, and stands on the hill-side beyond the fiats. 
The creek which winds through the marsh, south of Ver- 
planck's Point, as afterward the peninsula itself, was called 
Meahagh by the Indians. Stephen Van Cortland purchased 
it of them in 1683, and it passed from his possession into that 
of his son, whose only daughter and heiress married Philip 
Verplanck, from whom its present name. Topographically, 
Verplanck's Point may be described as a peninsula, gradu- 
ally rising from a gentle surface, until it terminates in the 
river in a bold bluff of from 40 to 50 feet elevation. A small 
fortification, called Fort Fayette, once existed at the westera 



1(J THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

extremity of Verplanck's Point, many remains of which are 
yet distinctly visible. This fort, and that of Stony Point, op- 
posite, were taken by the English under Sir Henry Clinton, 
June i, 1779. 

Peekskill, 42 miles, is one of the most interesting 
places on the Hudson. It is near the mouth of the Peekskill 
or Annsville Creek, which enters the Hudson a short dis- 
tance above. The town was settled by John Peck,. in 1764, 
an early Dutch navigator of the Hudson, who, as popular 
tradition runs, mistaking this creek for a continuation of the 
main stream, ran his boat ashore, and commenced the future 
town. Population 3,000. In the Cortlandville Cemetery, 
two miles north of the village, is a marble monument to 
John Paulding. 

Pursuing our voyage up-river, we now enter Haverstraw 
Bay, the second of the great extensions of the Hudson, and 
the commencement of the magnificent scenery of the High- 
lands. On our left rises the rugged front of the Dunderberg 
Mountain, at whose base the little hamlet and landing of 
Caldwell are nestled ; on the right, the village of Peekskill 
ascends from the shore to the lofty hill summit, and before 
us is the narrow passage of the river around the point of the 
Dunderberg, the grand base of Anthony's Nose, and other 
mountain cliffs and precipices. From Gallows Hill or Trea- 
son Hill (so called in remembrance of the execution there 
of the spy Palmer, in the days of the Revolution), northward, 
a grand panorama is exhibited. Here, to the west, over- 
looking the village, the river, and its mountain shores ; there, 
southward, hill and valley, as far as the high grounds of Tar- 
rytown below ; and above, the Canopus Valley, in the shadow 
of the Highland precipices. The division Of the American 
army under Putnam, in 1777, was encamped upon Gallows 



UP THE HUDSON. 17 

Hill. Beneath this lofty ground, and upon the banks of 
Canopus Creek, is Continental Village, destroyed by General 
Tryon (October 9, 1777), together with the barracks, public 
stores, and many cattle. 

The Van Cortland House, in the vicinity, is an object of in- 
terest, as the ancient seat of an ancient family, and as the 
temporary residence of Washington. Near by is a venerable 
church, erected in 1767, within whose graveyard there is a 
monument to the memory of John Paulding, one of the cap- 
tors of Major Andre. A pleasant ride from Peekskill is to 
Lake Mahopac, a fashionable summer resort for the pleasure- 
seekers of New York. 

Caldwell's Landing, at the foot of Dunderberg 
Mountain, three miles above Stony Point, was long a calling- 
place for the river steamers. The passengers for Peekskill, 
opposite, were then always landed at Caldwell. This spot is 
memorable for the search so seriously and actively made for 
the treasure which the famous pirate, Captain Kidd, was sup- 
posed to have secreted at the bottom of the river here. Re- 
mains of the apparatus used for this purpose are still seen, 
in bold, black relief, at the Dunderberg Point, as the boat 
rounds it, toward the Horse-Race. This Quixotic- explora- 
tion has at least proved to a certainty that much valuable 
treasure now lies buried here, however uncertain the matter 
was before ! At Peekskill the river makes a sudden turn to 
the west, which is called the race. From this point to New- 
burg the scenery is very fine. 

The Highlands. — This grand mountain-group, through 
which the Hudson now makes its wa)-, extends from north- 
east to southwest, over an area of about 16 by 25 miles. The 
landscape which these noble hights and their picturesque 
anH ^angeful forms present is of unrivalled magnificence 

2 



18 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

and beauty, whether seen from their rugged summits or froi.i 
the river gorges. 

Thus says Theodore Fay of these scenes : 

" By wooded bluff we steal, by leaning lawn, 
By palace, village, cot, a sweet surprise 
At every turn the vision breaks upon, 
Till to our wondering and uplifted eyes 
The Highland rocks and hills in solemn grandeur rise. 

" Nor clouds in heaven, nor billows in the deep, 
More graceful shapes did ever heave or roll ; 
Nor came such pictures to a painter's sleep, 
Nor beamed such vision on a poet's soul ! 
The pent-up flood, impatient of control, 
In ages past here broke its granite bound, 
Then to the sea in broad meanders stole, 
While ponderous ruin strewed the broken ground, 
And these gigantic hills for ever closed around.'" 

Anthony's Nose is a rocky promontory on our right, which 
rises to the hight of 1,128 feet, the base of which has been 
tunneled by the railway a length of 200 feet. Two miles 
above is Sugar Loaf Mountain, with an elevation of 865 feet. 
Near by, and reaching far out into the river, is a sandy bluff, 
on which Fort Independence once stood. Further on is Bev- 
erly Island, and in the extreme distance Bear Mountain. 
Forts Clinton and Montgomery, taken by the British troops, 
after traversing the Dunderberg mountain, are in this vicinity ; 
and so, too, a little lake called Skinnipink, or Bloody Pond, 
where a disastrous skirmish occurred on the eve of the cap- 
ture of the forts, and the consequent opening to the enemy 
of the passage to the Highlands. On this (the west) side of 
the river, the Buttermilk Falls are seen descending over in- 
clined ledges, a distance of 100 feet. 

lona Island, between Fort Clinton and Dunderberg, is 
famous for its fruit orchards and preserves. 

In the heart of the Highland pass, and just below West 
Point, on the west bank, is Cozzens', opened in 1849, a spa- 



UP THE HUDSON. 19 

cious and elegant summer hotel, and always well kept, which 
comes most charmingly into the pictures of the vicinity. It 
is accessible, as is West Point, at the same time, from the 
railway on the opposite side of the river, by a steam ferry from 
Garrisons Station (51 miles from New York), between Peeks- 
kill below and Cold Spring above. The concourse of sails 
sometimes windlocked in this mountain-pass presents a 
novel sight. 

Constitution Island, with the rocky plateau of West Point, 
now bars our view of the upper portion of the Highland pas- 
sage. Rounding it, we come into that wonderful reach of the 
river, flanked on the west side by Crdnest and Butter Hill, 
or Storm King, and on the east by the jagged acclivities of 
Breakneck and Bull Hill, with the pretty village of Cold 
Spring beneath. Constitution Island, called, prior to the 
Revolution, Martelear's Rock, was fortified, together with 
West Point, in 1775— '76. The remains of the magazines 
and other portions of the fort are still standing. 

A mile above Cozzens' we reach West Point, one of the 
great centres of attraction on the Hudson. 

West Point.— Hotels: The West Point (Roe's), on 
the terrace, and Cozzens' below. 

West Point, as well on account of its famous mili- 
tary school and historical associations, as for its varied 
and unique scenic attractions, is one of the most charming 
places on the Hudson. The hotels, though well kept, are 
not large, and those intending to make a stay there, en route 
to or from New York, would do well to order rooms in 
advance. Cozzens' was first opened in 1849, since which 
time the late Lieutenant-General Scott was accustomed to 
make it his summer headquarters. The best months in 
which to visit West Point are July and August — not only 



20 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

for viewing the river scenery, which is extremely luxuriant 
at that season, but on account of the military exercises, 
better known as " exhibitions," in which all the cadets join. 

The United States Military Academy, established in 1802, 
will first attract the visitor's attention. The buildings em- 
brace the barracks, with accommodation for 250 cadets ; a 
stone building, 150 feet long, with three towers for military 
exercises, a laboratory, observatory, chapel, hospital, mess- 
room, and officers' quarters. The academy is of stone, 275 
feet long by 75 feet wide, and three stories high. The land 
belonging to the academy or post, 250 acres in extent, was 
ceded by New York to the General Government in 1826. 
Among the objects of interest to be seen in and around 
the academy buildings are some revolutionary relics and 
cannon captured in the Mexican war, and a brass mortar 
taken from the British at Stony Point. The Chapel is an 
interesting edifice, rendered still more so by the associations 
connected with the recent demise and obsequies of Lieu- 
tenant-General Scott, who died at West Point, May 29, 1866. 
The Parade -Ground, on band afternoons, affords a character- 
istic and striking phase of West Point life. 

Kosciusko s Garden and Monument are on the river bank, 
near the parade-ground. The walk thither, overhung with 
trees and shrubbery, is known as Flirtation Walk. The 
monument is of white marble. It was erected by the corps 
of cadets in 1828, and cost $5,000. Near Kosciusko's Garden 
is a fine spring, said to have been discovered by Kosciusko 
himself, with seats for visitors. The remains of Forts Clin- 
ton, Putnam, Webb, and Wyllys, are sometimes visited. 
Fort Putnam is best worth seeing. It was built in 1778, 
under the direction of Col. Rufus Putnam. It stands on 
Mount Independence, 600 feet above the river, and from it a 



UP THE HUDSON. 21 

view is obtained which will well repay the labor of reaching 
it. The visitor will delight his eye at all points, whether he 
gaze upon the superb panorama of the river as he sits upon 
the piazza of the hotel upon the plateau, or as he looks upon 
the scene from the yet loftier eminence above, crowned by 
the ruins of ancient fortresses ; or strolls amidst the inter- 
lacing walks, with new vistas of beauty and fresh memories 
of a gallant gone-by at every turn and step. A mile north 
of West Point is the celebrated foundery of R. P. Parrott, 
the inventor of the Parrott gun. 

The Robinson or Beverly House, occupied by Arnold at 
the time of his meditated treason, and whence he made his 
escape to a British vessel, the " Vulture," lying near by in 
the river, is on the opposite (east) bank, at the foot of Sugar 
Loaf Mountain, a pleasant drive of four or five miles south 
from Cold Spring. It has been since known as Ardenia Cold 
Spring, and is two miles north of Garrison's Station, on the 
Hudson River Railway. It has large founderies and machine- 
shops. 

Cro'nest casts its broad shadow upon us as we continue 
our voyage up from West Point. This is one of the highest 
mountains found in the Highland group. Its hight is 1,^23 
feet. 

The poet Morris has happily sung the beauties of these 
bold cliffs : 

11 Where Hudson's waves o'er silvery sam'.3 
Wind through the hills afar, 
And Cro'nest like a monarch stands, 
Crowned with a single star." 

Cro'nest is the scene of Rodman Drake's poem of " The 
Culprit Fay." 

This picturesque hight, viewed from the deck of the 



22 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

steamer on a clear summer's night, will vividly recall to the 
traveler's mind those lines of the poet : 

" 'Tis the middle watch of a summer's night— 
The earth is dark, but the heavens are bright ; 
Naught is seen in the vault on high. 
But the moon, and the stars, and the cloudless sky, 
And the flood which rolls its milky hue — 
A river of light on the welkin blue. 
The moon looks down on the old Crow Nest, 
She mellows the shade on his shaggy breast, 
And seems his huge gray form to throw 
In a silver cone on the wave below ; 
His sides are broken by spots of shade, 
By the walnut-boughs and the cedar made ; 
And through their clustering branches dark 
Glimmers and dies the firefly's spark, 
Like starry twinkles that momently break 
Through the rifts of the gathering tempest rack." 

Btitter Hill (" Boterberg") is the next mountain crest, and 
the last of the Highland range upon the west. It is i,52g 
feet high. 

Between Cro'nest and Butter Hill, and in the laps of both, 
is a lovely valley, replete with forest and brook beauties 
called Tempe. 

Cold Spring and " Undercliff? — Cold Spring is one of the 
most; picturesque of the villages of the Hudson, whether 
seen from the water or from the hills behind, or in detail 
amidst its little streets and villa homes. It is built upon a 
steep ascent, and behind it is the massive granite crown of 
Bull Hill. This noble mountain overshadows the beautiful 
terrace upon which the late lamented poet Morris lived in 
the rural seclusion of " Undercliff" for many years. It is 
scarcely possible to find a spot of sweeter natural attractions 
than the site of Undercliff, looking over the pretty village to 
the castellated hills of West Point, across the blue Hudson 
to old Cro'nest, or northward beyond the Newburg Bay, to 
the far away ranges of the Kaatskill. 



UP THE HUDSON. 23 

Beyond Cold Spring, and still on the east bank of the 
river, the Highland range is continued in the jagged preci- 
pices of the Breakneck and Beacon Hills, in hight, respect- 
ively, 1,187 and i,6S5 feet. These mountains are among the 
most commanding features of the river scenery. 

CORNWALL LANDING is a rugged and picturesque 
little place, on the west bank. Back from the landing is the 
pleasant village of Cantei'bury. 

"Idlewild," Mr. Willis's romantic home, occupies a 
lofty plateau above, and north of the village. It is easily 
reached by either the Newburg or Cornwall road. 

New Windsor, between " Idlewild " and Newburg, and 
once the rival of the latter, is a straggling hamlet of Revolu- 
tionary memory. Washington established his headquarters 
at New Windsor, June 23, 1779, and again in 1780. His 
residence, a plain Dutch house, has long since passed away, 
as has also the famous " Temple of Virtue." At Moodna, 
two miles back of the landing, is a large paper-mill. Plum 
Point, on the west side, has some residences. 

Between New Windsor and Newburg is Cedar Lawn, the 
homestead of the Rev. J. T. Headley. 

IVewlHirg, with a population of near 15,000, and with its 
social and topographical attractions, is one of the largest and 
most delightful towns on the Hudson. Rising, as it does, 
rather precipitously from the water to an elevation of 300 
feet, it presents a very imposing front to the voyager. The 
higher grounds are occupied by beautiful residences and 
villas. The place was originally settled by emigrant Pala- 
tines, in 1798. It has immediate railway communication 
westward up the Quassic Creek, via Chester (20 miles), by 
the Newburg branch of the Erie Railway. It is a place of 
considerable trade, and has some extensive manufactories. 



04 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

The home of the lamented landscape gardener and horticul- 
tural writer, Downing, was here. Newburg was the theatre 
of many interesting events in the war of the Revolution. 
Washington's Headquarters, an old gray stone mansion, built 
by Mr. Hasbrouck, in 1750, stand a short distance south of 
the village. It was here the Revolutionary army was finally 
disbanded at the close of the war, June 23, 1782. Apart 
from the historical interest connected with the site, it com- 
mands a fine view of the great pass of the Highlands. It is 
owned by the State. The principal hotels are the Powelton 
and Orange. The Wharton House was used during the Rev- 
olution as a barracks. Many of the scenes in Cooper's 
novel of " The Spy" are laid in Newburgh. 

Fishkill Landing, 60 miles from New York, and opposite 
Newburg ferry, like that village and all the region around, 
abounds in natural beauties and elegant residences. It is a 
small place, with a population of 1,800. It lies in the lap of 
a lovely, fertile plain, which reaches back from the landing 
to the base of a bold mountain range. A portion of the 
Continental army was encamped here. The village of Fish- 
kill is situated on a creek of the same name, five miles east 
of the river. 

Two miles northeast of Fishkill Landing is the Verplanck 
House, interesting as having once been the headquarters of 
Baron Steuben, and the place in which the famous Society of 
the Cincinnati was organized, in 1783. Matteazvan, a manu- 
facturing point, is about a mile from the landing. 

Low Point, three miles above Fishkill Landing, is a small 
river hamlet. 

New Hamburg comes next, near the mouth of Wappinger's 
Creek, and a little north is the village of Marlborough, with 
Barnegat, famous for iis lime-kilns, two miles yet beyond. 



UP THE HUDSON. 25 

Poughkeepsie, 75 miles, is one of the largest towns 
between New York and Albany. Its population is 17,000; 
it contains about twenty churches, four banks, and three or 
four newspapers. It has a variety of manufactories ; and the 
rich agricultural region behind it makes it the depot of a busy 
trade. College Hill, the site of the collegiate institute, half a 
mile northeast, is a commanding elevation, overlooking the 
river and the region around. 

Poughkeepsie was founded by the Dutch, in 1705. It is 
symmetrically built upon an elevated plain half a mile east 
of the river. It has no historical associations of especial in- 
terest. Professor Morse, the inventor of the electric tele- 
graph, and Benson J. Lossing, author of the " Field Book 
of the Revolution," reside here. The Gregory House and the 
Exchange are the leading hotels. 

New Paltz Landing, on the opposite side of the river, is 
reached by ferry. 

Hyde Park, 80 miles above New York, is a quiet little vil- 
lage on the east side of the river, in the midst of a country 
of great fertility, and thronged with wealthy homesteads and 
sumptuous villas. It is named after Sir Edmund Hyde, Lord 
Cornbury, one of the early provincial governors. Placentia, 
once the home of Paulding, is near by, and commands a 
magnificent view of the river windings far above, even to the 
peaks of the distant Kaatskills. Staaisburg is upon the rail- 
way, five miles above. 

Itomlout, near the mouth of Rondout Creek, is the 
terminus of the Delaware and Hudson Canal, and connects 
with Rhinebeck by ferry. It has extensive manufactories of 
cement, and a populatio?i of 7,500, chiefly Germans and 
Irish. 

King*! on, two miles above Rondout, is a thriving and 



26 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

pleasant, place. It was settled by the Dutch (1663), about 
the time of the settlement of Albany and New York. H 
was burnt by the British, 1777. The first Constitution of 
New York was framed and adopted in a house still standing 
here. It was the birth place of Vanderlyn, the painter. He 
died here in 1853. 

Rhinebeck Landing, 90 miles from New York, is on the rail- 
way, opposite Kingston, and is connected with that village by 
a ferry. The river presents some attractive views at this 
point. The village of Rhinebeck is two miles back from the 
landing. It was founded by William Beekman, in 1647. The 
Beekman House is one of the best specimens of an old Dutch 
homestead to be found in the valley of the Hudson. The 
Exchange Hotel has accommodation for visitors. 

Saugerties and Tivoli, the one on the west and the other on 
the east bank of the river, next attract our attention. Sau- 
gerties is a picturesque and prosperous manufacturing village, 
at the debouche of the beautiful waters of Esopus Creek. 
Rokeby, the estate of William B. Astor, Esq., is a short dis- 
tance south of Barrytown. It formerly belonged to Mr. John 
Armstrong, the author of the " Newburg Letters," whose 
daughter Mr. Astor married. Between Barrytown and Ti- 
voli are Annandale and Montgomery Place, the seats of John 
Bard and Edward Livingston. 

Passing Maiden on the left, and Germantown on the right 
bank, we reach Oakhill Station, the point of departure on the 
Hudson River Railway for Kaatskill. Opposite Maiden 
stands Clermont, the seat of the late Chancellor Livingston. 
Kaatskill, or Catskill, lies at the mouth of the Kaatskill 
Creek, on the west bank of the Hudson. The site of the 
town is somewhat elevated, and commands extensive views 
of the river and distant hills. The banks of the creek 



UP THE HUDSON. 27 

abound in varied and extensive scenery, and are annually 
the resort of city artists, bent on obtaining fresh studies. 
Here the lamented Cole painted his " Course of Empire " 
and " Voyage of Life." Here, too, Charles Moore resides ; 
and Thomas Nast, the spirited artist of " Harper's Weekly," 
and others, have also taken up a temporary residence in the 
village. The Hudson River House, by J. T. Huntley, affords 
excellent accommodation for those visiting Kaatskill village. 
The Catskill House, opposite the stage-office, is also a well- 
kept house. 

Tlie Kaatskill Mountains. — To reach the Kaats- 
kills from New York, we will follow our previous routes up 
the Hudson to the village of Kaatskill (in miles), or the 
railway to Oakhill Station opposite, crossing thence to Kaats- 
kill by ferry. Time from New York to the Mountain House, 
eight to nine hours. Immediate connection between the 
landing and the mountains, by Beach's stage lines ; fare, $i. 
The Kaatskills are a part of the great Appalachian Chain, 
which extends through the eastern portion of the Union from 
Canada to the Gulf of Mexico. Their chief ranges follow 
the course of the Hudson River for 20 to 30 miles, lying west 
of it, and separated by a valley stretch of 10 to 12 miles. 
These peaks lend to the landscape of that part of the Hud- 
son from which they are visible, its greatest charm. The 
Mountain House is reached by a pleasant stage-coach ride, 
which usually occupies three hours. Blooms Half-way 
House affords refreshment for stage passengers. Two miles 
from the summit the coach stops at Sleepy Hollow, a spot 
usually conceded to be the site of Rip Van Winkle's famous 
nap. Here a house of refreshment has recently been built ; 
it is known as the " Rip Van Winkle House," and is kept by 
Mr. Ira Saxe. The Mountain House is an excellent one 



28 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

combining all the comforts and many of the luxuries of more 
pretentious establishments. Its original cost was $20,000, 
and it has been repeatedly enlarged and improved. Charles 
L. Beach is the proprietor. The last three miles of the 
journey to the hotel is up the side of the mountain, made 
easy by a good winding way. Moses Rock. — The path lead- 
ing to this retired spot is passed on the left of the road, a 
short distance south of the hotel. A most superb view is 
had, from the piazza, of the Hudson River and valley, and of 
the mountain ranges of New England in the distance. Sun-" 
rise on the Catskills, as seen from the Mountain House, has 
been thus poetically described by an old Knickerbocker con- 
tributor : 

" Then rouse ye up its kind approach to greet, 
With sunrise on the mountain-tops, and stay 
To mark how all that's glorious, fair, and sweet, 
Comes forth revealed by the bright god of day ; 
And as upon the magic scene you gaze, 
It seems His own creation strikes you with amaze. 

"As we from this proud height the earth behold, 

Ushered into his presence ; and the flash 
Of his first beams, reveals an outline bold, 

The distant hills imprinted at one dash, 
In dark relief upon the glowing sky, 
To fade there through each shade of blue till evening die. 1 ' 

In favorable weather the cities of Albany and Troy can be 
seen with the aid of a good glass. 

North Mountain furnishes a pleasant ramble for the visitor 
at the Mountain House ; the best view is obtained from 
Table Rock, three-quarters of a mile north of the hotel. 
South Mountain is another favorite ramble, commanding a 
view of the Kaaterskill Pass. The Two Lakes, north and 
south, are reached in a short stroll from the hotel, being on 
the direct road to the falls. They afford good fishing. 

The Kaaterskill or Hi?h Falls are two miles west of 



UP THE HUDSON. 29 

the Mountain House, easily reached by stage, or boat on the 
lake. The Laurel House commands an excellent view of the 
falls, and of Round Top and High Peak, in the immediate 
neighborhood. The descent of the first cascade is 180 feet, 
and of the second So feet ; below these is another fall of 40 
feet, making the total descent 300 feet, The Kaaterskill has 
a devious and rapid course of eight miles to the Kaats- 
kill, near the village. To see the falls to the best advantage, 
the visitor should descend the winding stairs leading from 
the platform of the hotel, and spend an hour or two in ex- 
ploring the gorge and glen below. Refreshments, if desired, 
ran be supplied from the dizzy hight by means of basket 
and rope. Mr. Scutt, the proprietor of the falls, resides at 
the Laurel House, and personally provides for the wants of 
visitors. Guides to the falls and to the neighboring Cloves 
are furnished at the Laurel House ; a charge of 25 cents is 
made to each passenger for showing the falls. Livery can 
also be obtained at reasonable prices. 

Fenimore Cooper, in his story of " The Pioneer," thus de- 
scribes these cascades : " The water comes croaking and 
winding among the rocks, first, so slow that a trout might 
swim in it, then starting and running like any creature that 
wanted to make a fair spring, till it gets to where the mount- 
ain divides like the cleft foot of a deer, leaving a deep hol- 
low for the brook to tumble into. The first pitch is nigh 
200 feet, and the water looks like flakes of snow before it 
touches the bottom, and then gathers itself together again for 
a new start ; and may be flutters over 50 feet of flat rock be- 
fore it falls for another 100 feet, when it jumps from shelf to 
shelf, first running this way and that way, striving 10 get out 
of the hollow, till it finally gets to the plain." This branch 
of the Kaaterskill comes from the waters of the two lakes on 



30 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

the plateau above ; and, as the supply has to be economized 
in order that the cascades ma)' look their best when they 
have company, the stream is dammed, and the flood is let on 
at proper times only. We have now peeped at all the usual 
" sights" of the region ; but there are other chapters of 
beaut) 7 , perhaps yet more inviting. Let the tourist, if he be 
adventurous and is a true lover of Nature, follow the brook 
down from the base of the cataracts we have just described, 
into the principal clove ; then let him ascend the main 
stream for a mile, over huge boulders, through rank woods, 
and many by-cascades, which, if smaller, are still more pic- 
turesque than those " nominated in the bond ;" or, let him 
descend the creek two miles, sometimes by the edge of the 
bed of the waters, and when that is impracticable, by the 
turnpike road, which traverses the great clove or pass. At 
every turn and step there will be a new picture — sometimes 
a unique rapid or fall, sometimes a soaring mountain cliff, 
sometimes a rude bridge across the foaming torrent, some- 
times a little hut or cottage ; and at last, as he comes out to- 
ward the valley on the east, the humble village of Palenville. 
This portion of the Kaatskills is that most preferred by 
artists for study, and the inns at Palenville are often occu- 
pied by them, though they offer but little inducement to the 
ease and comfort loving tourist to tarry. 

Another nice excursion from the Mountain House is a 
ride along the ridge five or six miles, to the entrance of the 
Stony Clove (Bear's Gap), and thence through the wilderness 
of this fine pass. The Mountain Home, at Tannersville, by 
Gray & Mulford, is a desirable stopping-place for visitors 
to this region. 

High Peak, the most elevated of the Kaatskill summits, 
towering 4,000 feet high, should certainly be climbed, in order 



UP THE HUDSON. 31 

to see the region fairly. It is six miles west of the Mount- 
ain House, is a long and toilsome journey for many, but it 
well repays for the labor of reaching it. The Mountain 
House, seen from High Peak, looks like a pigmy in the vale. 
Plaaterkill Clove is another grand pass on the hills, five 
miles below the Kaaterskill passage. A mountain torrent, full 
of beauties in glen, and rock, and cascade, winds through it. 
The tourist here will recall Bryant's lines : 

11 Midst greens and shades the Kaaterskill leaps 
From cliffs where the wood-flower clings ; 
All summer he moistens his verdant steeps 

With the light spray of the mountain springs; 
And he shakes the woods on the mountain side, 
When they drip with the rains of the autumn tide. 

M But when, in the forest bare and old, 
The blast of December calls, 
He bu ilds in the starlight, clear and cold, 
A palace of ice where his torrent fall; — 
With turret, and arch, and fretwork fa'r, 
And pillars clear as the summer air. 

Mr. T. Addison Richards, the artist, thus writes of the 
winter aspect of these falls : " The cataracts of the Catskills, 
in winter, when the spray is frozen into a myriad fantastic 
forms, all glowing like the prism, as the clear, cold sunlight 
reveals these mystical wonders, is a sight so grand and novel 
as to well repay the exposure and fatigue of a visit thither 
through bleak January's snows and ice." 

To visit the Kaatskills comfortably, three days will suffice 
for the journey thence by rail from New York, for the stay 
and return to the city. Not less than four, however, ought 
to be thus invested, if one would make sure of a satisfactory 
dividend ; and if a week is at command, so much the happier 
he who commands it. 

Hudson. — Hotels: The Hudson House, North Hou x. — 
Passing Mount Merino, about four miles above Kaatskill, the 



32 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

cit; of Hudson, 115 miles from New York, is next reached. 
It was settled in 1784, by Quakers from New England. The 
main street (Warren), which runs through the heart of the 
city from east to west, terminates at the river extremity in a 
pleasant little park called Promenade Hill, on a bold promon- 
tory rising abruptly 60 feet above the water ; while the 
other terminus climbs to the foot of Prospect Hill, an ele- 
vation of 200 feet. From these hights the views of the 
Kaatskills, on the opposite side of the Hudson River, and of 
the river and city of Hudson, are incomparably fine. It is 
at the head of sloop navigation on the river ; it contains a fine 
court-house of marble, several elegant church edifices, and a 
Female Seminary, which occupies the former Lunatic Asy- 
lum. It is the terminus of the Hudson and Boston Railway. 
Population, 12,000. 

Sfew Lebanon Springs have fine medicinal proper- 
ties, and are much resorted to during the summer months. 
The route thither from Hudson is by the Hudson and Bos- 
ton Railroad to Canaan, and thence by stage. The manu- 
facture of thermometers and barometers is extensively car- 
ried on here. Columbia Hall is the best hotel. The Shaker 
Village, with its unique features of social life, is worth visit- 
ing. The settlement is two miles from the Springs, and is 
situated in a charming valley, richly skirted by woods. The 
Herbery, for the vegetable curing process, in which the Shak- 
ers are so proficient, and many of the farms, are well worth 
the attention of strangers. (See Lebanon Springs.) 

Columbia Springs, five miles from Hudson, is a 
summer resort of great value to invalids, and of interest to 
all. The Clave rack Falls, some eight miles off, should not 
be overlooked by the visitor. 

Alliens is a little village with a population of 2,000, di- 



UP THE HUDSON. 33 



-)o» 



rectly opposite Hudson, and connected with it by a st 2am 
ferry. 

Stockport and Coxsackie arc bustling and thriving little 
places immediately beyond Athens. 

Kinderhook Landing. — The village of Kinderhook, about 
five miles east of the landing, on the east side of the river, 
is the birth-place of Martin Van Buren, the eighth president 
of the United States. His estate of " Lindenvvald," where 
he spent the last years of his life, is situated two miles south 
of the village. New Baltimore and Coeymaris are now passed 
on the left, and Schodack and Castleton on the right. Two 
miles below Albany, at a place called Rcmcood, is an im- 
mense stone dyke, built by the Government in 1832, at a cost 
of a quarter of a million dollars. A few minutes after pass- 
ing this point, the spires and domes of the State Capital rise 
to view, J»nd the steamer is soon alongsfde her dock at 
Albany, and here closes our journey up the Hudson. 

3 



34 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 



ROUTE II. 

Saratoga and Ballston Springs. 




51MONG the many watering-places of our Atlantic 
seaboard, there is none more justly popular than 
the Springs of Saratoga County, in the State of 
New York. 

The fame of its waters — their proximity to all the great cen- 
tres of population — the ready means of access — the extent of 
accommodation for visitors — and last, though not least, the 
attractions which fashion lend to them during the season — 
have combined to render Saratoga the most frequented of 
all our summer resorts. During the hight of the season the 
arrivals frequently number a thousand in a single day. 
There is nothing remarkable about the topography or scenery 
of Saratoga ; on the contrary, the spot would be uninterest- 
ing enough but for the virtues of its waters and the dissipa- 
tion of its brilliant society. The village streets, however, are 
gratefully shaded by fine trees, and a little respite from the 
gay whirl may be had on the walks and lawns of the pretty 
rural cemetery close by. 

The most desirable hotels at Saratoga are the Congress 



SARATOGA AND BALLSTON SPRINGS. 35 

Hall, destroyed by fire in 1866 and rebuilt in i863, the 
Union, and the Clarendon. Congress Hall contains 800 rooms 
with accommodations for 1,200 guests. The Marvin and 
American houses are well patronized. Besides these houses, 
there are many of less fashion and price, and numerous pri- 
vate boarding-houses, where one may live quietly at a moder- 
ate cost. The hotels which we have named have accommo- 
dation for from 4,000 to 5,000 guests. Attached to the Union 
is an opera-house, capable of seating 1,500 persons ; billiard 
rooms, baths, etc. Fine bands of music discourse on the 
broad, shady piazzss, and in the ball-rooms, at the dinner 
and evening hours. Congress Hall is a magnificent structure, 
well kept, and deservedly popular. The Clarendon is an 
elegant, spacious house, delightfully situated on the brow of 
the hill overlooking Congress and Columbia Springs. 

The route from Boston is by the "Western Railway, 200 
miles to Albany ; or, from New York, by the Hudson River 
line or steamboats, 144 miles to Albany, or 150 miles to 
Troy. From either place, by the Rensselaer and Saratoga 
Railway, through Ballston Springs. 

The short ride from Troy to the Springs is a most agree- 
able one. The route crosses and follows the Hudson and 
the Mohawk rivers, to Waterford, at the meeting of these 
waters, four miles above Troy, and near the Cohoes Falls, a 
much admired and frequented resort upon the Mohawk ; 
thence continuing upon the west bank of the Hudson, eight 
miles farther to Mechanicsville ; it afterward crosses the 
canal, passes Round Lake, and enters Ballston Springs. 

During the summer, a car on the Hudson River Railway 
express trains from New York passes through to the Springs 
without change. Passengers via Albany, for the Springs, 
change cars at Albany. 



36 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

The springs from which the fame of Saratoga is derived, 
however much fashion may have since nursed it, are all in or 
very near the village. There are many different waters in 
present use ; but the most sought after of all are those of the 
Congress Spring, of which Dr. Chilton gives the following 
analysis : One gallon of 261 cubic inches contains chloride 
of sodium, 363.829 grains ; carbonate of soda, 7.200 ; carbon- 
ate of lime, 86.143 ; carbonate of magnesia, 78.621 ; carbon- 
ate of iron, .841 ; sulphate of soda, .651 ; iodide of sodium 
and bromide of potassium, 5.920 ; silica, .472 ; alumina, .321 ; 
total, 543.998 grains. Carbonic acid, 284.65 ; atmospheric 
air, 5.41 ; making 209.06 inches of gaseous contents. This 
spring was discovered in 1792, though it was long before 
known to and esteemed by the Indians. It is owned by a 
company which also owns the Columbian and Empire 
Springs. The bottling establishment will repay a visit. 

After the Congress waters, which are bottled and sent all 
over the world, as everybody knows, the springs most in fa- 
vor and use at Saratoga are the Empire, the Columbian, the 
High Rock, the Iodine, the Pavilion, and Putnam's. The 
Excelsior, Star, and Saratoga A Springs are also becom- 
ing popular. The Empire Spring, the most northerly 
one in the village, has grown greatly in repute of late 
years. Thus far its landscape surroundings have re- 
ceived but poor attention. The Columbian Spring, south- 
west of the Empire, is much esteemed for its tonic and 
strengthening purposes. The High Rock Spring, not far 
from the Empire, is much esteemed both for its medici- 
nal virtues, and for the curious character of the rock from 
which it issues, and after which it is named. It became first 
known through the discovery of Sir William Johnson, in 1767. 
This singular rock has been formed by the accumulated de- 



SARATOGA AND BALLSTON SPRINGS. 37 

posits of the mineral substances (magnesia, lime, and iron) 
held in solution by the carbonic acid gas of the springs. 
The circumference of the rock, at the surface of the ground, 
is 24 feet 4 inches ; its hight 3^ feet, with an aperture of 
nearly one foot diameter. The centennial anniversary of its 
discovery was celebrated August 23, 1S66. The Hamilton 
and Putnam springs are in the neighborhood of Congress 
Hall. The Seltzer Spring was opened in 1867. In the im- 
mediate vicinity of the springs is pointed out the spot upon 
which the battles of Saratoga and Stillwater were fought in 

1777. 

The Alpha and Omega of the daily Saratoga programme 
is to drink and to dance— the one in the earliest possible 
morning, and the other at the latest conceivable night. 
Among the out-door diversions is a jaunt to Saratoga Lake, 
an attractive resort, six miles distant. The drive thither 
has recently been improved. The lake is nine miles in 
length, and very nearly three in width. Excellent fishing. 
The marshes around it prevent access, except here and 
the re. AbelTs and Moons Lake Houses are well-kept houses, 
with conveniences for boating, fishing, etc. Moons is fa- 
mous for its game dinners and fried potatoes. Snake Hill 
is the name given to an eminence upon the eastern side of the 
lake. Prosfect, or Waring Hill, also affords a pleasant drive. 
The Indian Camp, Circular Railway, and Archery Ground, are 
immediately south of Congress Spring and the " Victoria 
Walk." The peculiarity of " the camp" is that the Indians 
are almost while, and of marked Milesian features. The 
Annual Races are held half a mile from the Springs. The 
season opens June 15th, and visitors arrive rapidly after July 
opens. The village has two newspaper offices, several 
churches, and a resident population of 8,ooo, which is in- 



38 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

creased to nearly 30,000 during the months of July and 
August. 

Hailstoil Spa is upon the Kayaderosseros Creek, a 
small stream which flows through the village, 25 miles from 
Troy and 7 miles from Saratoga Springs. Its mineral 
waters, which were discovered in 176Q, are celebrated for 
their medicinal qualities, although not so popular as they 
were formerly, those of Saratoga being now generally pre- 
ferred. A flourishing seminary has been established near 
the centre of the village, on the site of the former Sans Souci 
Hotel. The village has railway connection with Schenec- 
tady, distant 15 miles. Long Lake, a famous fishing resort, 
is five miles distant. The Sans Souci Hotel has good ac- 
commodation for visitors. 



LAKE GEORGE. <>9 




ROUTE III. 

Lake George. 



| ROM Saratoga or Ballston Springs the tourist may 
pleasantly and profitably extend his trip to Lake 
George, distant twenty-eight miles northward. 
The route lies northward, via Gansevoort, to 
Moreau Station, 17 miles, and thence by stages, 11 miles, 
over a plank road, to Caldwell, at the south end or head of 
the lake. 

Glenn s Falls, on the upper Hudson, are passed on the 
way, nine miles from the lake. The wild and rugged land- 
scape is in striking contrast with the general air of the coun- 
try below— there, quiet pastoral lands; here, rugged rock 
and rushing cataract. From its natural, its poetical, and its 
historical character, the spot is possessed with a threefold 
interest. The passage of the river is through a rude ravine, 
in a mad descent of 75 feet over a rocky precipice of 900 feet 
in length. Within the roar of these rapids were laid some 
of the scenes in Cooper's story of the " Last of the Mohicans." 
They are gently associated with our romantic memories of 
Uncas and Hawk's Eye, David Duncan Haywood and his 
sweet wards, Alice and Cora Monroe. 

When within four miles of Lake George, we pass a dark 



40 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

glen, in which lie hidden the storied waters of Bloody Pond ; 
and close by is the historic old boulder, remembered as 
William's Rock. Near this last-mentioned spot, Colonel 
Williams was killed in an engagement with the French and 
Indians, September 8, 1775. The slain in this unfortunate 
battle were cast into the waters near by, since called Bloody 
Pond. It is now quiet enough, under its surface of slime 
and dank lilies. The village built up around these falls was 
almost wholly destroyed by fire, in May, i860. The inhabit- 
ants number near 5,ooo, and are principally engaged in- 
manufacturing pursuits. Marble of fine quality is quarried 
here. 

Our road from the falls descends to the lake shore, the 
gleaming floods and the blue cliffs of Horicon closing in the 
distance. The first broad view of the beautiful lake, seen 
suddenly as our way brings us to the brink of the highlands, 
above which we have thus far traveled, is of surpassing 
beauty, only exceeded by the thousand-and-one marvels of 
delight which we afterward enjoy in all the long traverse of 
its famous waters. 

Caldwell, at the south end of the lake, has two excellent 
hotels, the Fort William Henry Hotel and the Lake House. 
About a mile southeast from the site of Fort William Henry 
are the ruins of Fort George, passed on the road from Glenn's 
Falls. These localities are seen from the piazza of the Lake 
House, which commands also a fine view of the French 
Mountain and Rattlesnake Hill, and of the islands and hills 
down the lake. 

The passage of Lake George, 36 miles to the landing near 
the village of Ticonderoga, and four miles from the venerable 
ruins of Fort Ticonderoga, on Lake Champlain, is made by 
the steamer Hiawatha, the trip down to the fort and back 



LAKE GEORGE. 41 

occupying the day very delightfully. Leaving Caldwell after 
breakfast, we proceed on our voyage down the lake. After 
passing the fine residence of Mr. Cramer, the first spot of 
especial interest which we note is Diamond Island, in front 
of Dunham Bay. Here, in 1777, was a military depot of Bur- 
Coyne's army ; it was also the scene of a skirmish between 
the garrison and a detachment of American troops. 

North of Diamond Isle lies Long Island, in front of Long 
Point, which extends into the lake from the east. Harris's 
Bay lies between the north side of this point and the mount- 
ains. In this bay Montcalm moored his boats and landed 
in 1757. Doom, or Twelve-Mile Island, is passed in the cen- 
tre of the lake, some 12 miles north of Caldwell. Putnam's 
men took shelter here while he went to apprise General 
Webb of the movements of the enemy, at the mouth of the 
Northwest Bay. This bay lies in one of the most beautiful 
parts of Lake George, just beyond Bolton Landing, where 
there is an inviting place to sojourn, called the " Mohican 
House." The best fishing-grounds of Lake George are in 
the vicinity of Bolton Landing, Shelving Rock, and thence 
to Caldwell, though fine trout and bass are freely caught 
from one end of the lake to the other. The bay extends up 
on the west of the Tongue Mountain some five miles. On 
the east side of the bay, the Tongue Mountain comes in 
literally like a tongue of the lake, into the centre of which it 
seems to protrude, with the bay on one side and the main 
passage of the waters on the other. On the right or east 
shore, in the neighborhood, and just as we reach the Tongue 
and enter the " Narrows," is the bold semi-circular palisades 
called Shelving Rock. Passing this picturesque feature of 
the landscape, and, afterward, the point of the Tongue 
Mountain, we enter the Narrows at the base of the boldest 



4-2 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

and loftiest shores of Horicon. The chief peak of the hills here 
is that of Black Mountain, with an altitude of 2,200 feet. The 
islands, so called, of this lovely lake, number more than 300. 

Sabbath-Day Point. — Emerging from the Narrows, on the 
north, we approach a long projecting strip of fertile land 
called Sabbath-Day Point — so named by General Aber- 
crombie, from his having embarked his army on the spot on 
Sunday morning, after a halt for the preceding night. The 
spot is remembered also as the scene of a fight, in 1756, be- 
tween the colonists and a party of French and Indians. The 
former, sorely pressed, and unable to escape across the lake, 
made a bold defense and defeated the enemy, killing very 
many of their men. In 1776, Sabbath-Day Point was again 
the scene of a battle between some American militia and a 
party of Indians and Tories, when the latter were repulsed, 
and some 40 of their number were killed and wounded. 
This part of Horicon is even more charming in the views 
which it affords, both up and down the lake, than it is in its 
numerous historical reminiscences. On a calm sunny day, 
the romantic passage of the Narrows, as seen to the south- 
ward, is wonderfully fine ; while in the opposite direction is 
the broad bay, entered as the boat passes Sabbath-Day Point, 
and the summer landing and hotel at " Garfield's" soon to 
be abruptly closed on the north by the huge precipices of 
Anthony's Nose on the right and Roger's Slide on the left. 
This pass is not unlike that of the Highlands of the Hudson, 
as approached from the south. 

Roger's Slide is a rugged promontory, about 400 feet high, 
with a steep face of bare rock, down which the Indians, to 
their great bewilderment, supposed the bold ranger, Major 
Rogers, to have passed when they pursued him to the brink 
of the precipice. 



LAKE GEORGE. 43 

Two miles beyond is Prisoner s Island, where, during the 
French war, those taken captive by the English were con- 
fined ; and directly west is Lord Howe s Point, where the En- 
glish army, under Lord Howe, consisting of 16,000 men, 
landed previous to the attack on Ticonderoga. We now 
approach the termination of our excursion on this beautiful 
lake. Another mile brings us to the steamboat landing near 
the village of Ticonderoga, whence stages run a distance of 
three miles over a rough and romantic road, to Fort Ticon- 
deroga — following the wild course of the passage by which 
Horicon reaches the waters of Lake Champlain — a passage 
full of bold rapids and striking cascades. 

Fort Ticonderoga, of which the ruins only are visible, was 
erected by the French in 1756, and called b) T them " Corril- 
lon." It was originally a place of much strength ; its natu- 
ral advantages were very great, being surrounded on three 
sides by water, and having half its fourth covered by a 
swamp, and the only point by which it could be approached, 
by a breastwork. It was afterward, however, easily reduced, 
by an expedient adopted by General Burgoyne — that of 
placing a piece of artillery on the pinnacle of Mount Defiance, 
on the south side of the Lake George outlet, and 750 feet 
above the lake, and entirely commanding the fort, from which 
shot was thrown into the midst of the American works. 
Fort Ticonderoga was one of the first strongholds taken from 
the English in 1775, at the commencement of the Revolu- 
tionary War. Colonel Ethan Allen, of Vermont, at the 
head of the Green Mountain Boys, surprised the unsuspect- 
ing garrison, penetrated to the very bedside of the comman- 
dant, and waking him, demanded the surrender of the fort. 
" In whose name, and to whom ?" exclaimed the surprised 
officer. " In the name of the great Jehovah and the Co»- 



44 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

tinental Congress," thundered the intrepid Allen, and the fort 
was immediately surrendered. 

After exploring the picturesque ruins of the ancient fort, 
and dining at the hotel, which stands upon the margin of a 
beautiful lawn, sloping to the Champlain shore, the tourist 
may return to the landing on Lake George, and thence to Cald- 
well again, in time for tea ; or he may take the Champlain 
boat from Whitehall, en route for Canada. 

For the sake of preserving our continuity of trc.vel, a con- 
sideration so important with the tourist, we will resume our 
programme at Moreau Station, on the Saratoga and White- 
hall Railway, to which point we have already followed it in 
our visit to Lake George. 

To Whitehall the country is exceedingly attractive, much 
of the way, in its quiet, sunny valley beauty, watered by 
pleasant streams, and environed in the distance by picturesque 
hills. The Champlain Canal is a continual object of inter- 
est by the way ; and there are also, as in all the long journey 
before us, everywhere spots of deep historic interest — if we 
could tarry to read their stories — of the memorable incidents 
which they witnessed, both in French and Indian warfare, and 
afterward in the Revolutionary War. In the valley regions of 
the Hudson, which lie between Albany and Lake Champlain, 
are many scenes famous for the struggles between the 
colonists and Great Britain — the battle-grounds of Bemis 
Hights and Stillwater (villages of the upper Hudson), and of 
Saratoga, which ended in the defeat of Burgoyne and his 
army. 

Three miles north of Moreau Station we pass Fort Edward, 
the scene of the murder of Jane McCrea by the Indians ; and 
twelve miles further on, Fort Anne, a pleasant village of 
Washington County, on the canal, Remains of the fortifica- 



LAKE GEORGE. 45 

tion from whHi the place is named, and which was erected 
during the French War of 1756, are still to be seen. 

Whitehall, 77 miles north of Albany, was a point of 
much consideration during the French and Indian War, and 
through the Revolution. In former times it r s called 
Skenesborough. It is at the south end, or head, of Lake 
Champlain, within a rude, rocky ravine, at the foot of Skene's 
Mountain. The Champlain Canal to Troy terminates here. 
Pawlet River and Wood Creek, which enter the lake here, 
furnish abundant water-power. The population numbers 
about 4,500. There is nothing in the vicinage to delay the 
traveler. From Whitehall we can either continue our jour- 
ney down Lake Champlain, 156 miles, to St. John, or pro- 
ceed by railway through Vermont, via Castleton, Rutlana 
Burlington, etc., to Rouse's Point, and thence to Montreal 
The boat or lake route is preferable, as affording greater 
variety and more attractive scenery. 



46 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 



ROUTE IV. 

Lake Champlain. 




'AKE CHAMPLAIN, on« of the most import?ut 
and attractive features of (he northern tour, li?s 
between New York and Vermont, in latitude be- 
tween 43 30' and 45 6' North. It varies in breadth 
from half a mile to 10 miles, and in depth from 50 to 280 feet. 
Its principal tributaries are the Saranac, Au Sable, and Wi- 
nooski rivers, and its principal outlet the Sorel or Richelieu 
River, through which it discharges into the St. Lawrence, 50 
miles below Montreal. The name is derived from that of Sam- 
uel de Champlain, who discovered it in 1609. Navigation 
opens in May, and usually continues to November. One of the 
U. S. mail steamers leaves Whitehall on the arrival of trains 
from Albany, etc. The narrowness of the lower part of Lake 
Champlain gives it much more the appearance of a river than 
a lake. For 20 miles the average breadth does not exceed 
half a mile, and at one point it is not more than 40 rods 
across. However, it grows wide enough as we pass Ticon- 
deroga, where passengers by the Lake George detour are 
picked up ; and in the vicinity of Burlington there are too 
many broad miles between the shores for picturesque views. 
Whether broad or narrow, however, the voyage over its 



LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 47 

mountain-environed waters, in spacious and well-appointed 
boats, is always a pleasure to be greatly enjoyed and happily 
remembered. On the east rise the bare peaks of the Green 
Hills of Vermont, the bold Camel's Hump leading all along 
the line ; and on the west are the still more varied summits 
and ridges of the Adirondack Mountains, in New York. 

Mount Independence lies in Vermont, opposite Ticonde- 
roga, about a mile distant. The remains of military works 
are still visible here. Mount Hope, an elevation about a mile 
north of Ticonderoga, was occupied by General Burgoyne 
previous to the recapture of Ticonderoga, which took place 
in 1777, nearly two years after its surrender to the gallant 
Allen. St. Clair, the American commander, being forced to 
evacuate, it again fell into the possession of the British, and 
was held during the war. Not far above, and upon the op- 
posite shore, is the village of Crown Point, and just beyond 
the picturesque and well-preserved ruins of the fortifications 
of the same name. Opposite, is Chimney Point, and just 
above, on the left, at the mouth of Bulwaggy Bay, is Fori 
Henry. 

Burlington.— Hotels: American, The Lake House. 
Burlington, Vermont, the largest and most beautiful town 
on the lake, or, indeed, in the State, stands upon the eastern 
shore, about midway between Whitehall and St. Johns, and 
80 miles from Whitehall. It was settled in 1783, and con- 
tains nearly 10,000 inhabitants. Rising gradually to an ele- 
vation of several hundred feet from the water, the town pre- 
sents an imposing aspect. It is the seat of the University of 
Vermont, founded 1791, and is a place of much commercial 
importance, connected by railway with all parts of the coun- 
try. Across the lake is Fort Kent, from which vicinity, 
whether on land or on water, the landscape in every direc- 



48 THE TOURISTS GUIDE. 

tion is striking and beautiful. Mount Mansfield is reached 
by stage from Burlington. A pleasant detour may be made 
from Burlington, by the Vermont Central Railway, to the 
White Mountains. The better plan, however, is to proceed 
up the lake to St. Johns, and thence by Waterloo and Lake 
Memphremagog, 63 miles. The remarkable Walled Banks 
of the Au Sable are a mile or two west of Port Kent, on the 
way to the manufacturing village of Keeseville. (See 
Adirondacks.) The Au Sable House is an excellent sum- 
mer hotel. The Falls of the Au Sable, though but little 
known as yet, will one day be esteemed among the chief 
natural wonders of the country. 

Plattsburg . — Hotel : " Fottqtiefs" Twenty-four miles 
above Burlington, and on the opposite shore, is the pleasant 
village of Plattsburg, where the Saranac River comes in from 
its lake-dotted home, at the edge of the great wilderness 
of Northern New York, 30 miles westward. Plattsburg is 
connected with Montreal by the P. & M. Railway. Cumber- 
land Bay, into which the Saranac enters, was the scene of 
the victory of McDonough and McComb over the British 
naval and land forces under Commodore Downie and Sir 
George Provost, familiarly known as the Battle of Lake 
Champlain. Here the American Commodore awaited the 
arrival of the British fleet, which passed Cumberland Head 
about 8 o'clock on the morning of September 11, 1814. The 
first gun from the fleet was the signal for commencing the 
attack on land. Sir George Provost, with about 14,000 men, 
furiously assaulted the defenses of the town, while the battle 
raged between the fleets, in full view of the armies. General 
McComb, with about 3,000 men, mostly undisciplined, foiled 
the repeated assaults of the enemy, until the capture of the 
British fleet, after an action of about two hours, obliged him 



LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 49 

to retire, with ihe loss of 2,500 men, and a large portion of 
his baggage and ammunition. 

Twenty-five miles farther we reach Rouses Point, on the 
west side of the lake. This is our last landing before we 
enter Canada. It is the terminus of the Lake Champlain 
Railway to Ogdensburg, 118 miles. Railways from the East- 
ern States, through Vermont, come in here, and are pro- 
longed by the Montreal and Champlain road, to Montreal. 
If the traveler toward Canada prefers to continue his jour- 
ney otherwise than via Plattsburg, or Rouse's Point, he may 
go on by steamboat to the head of navigation in these waters, 
to St. Johns, and thence by Lachine to Montreal. 

(See Canada, for the tour of the St. Lawrence and Lake 
Ontario, from Quebec via Montreal to Niagara.) 

4 



50 THE TOUFTST'S GUIDE. 



ROUTE V. 

The White Mountains. 




HESE mountains cover an area of about 40 miles 
square, in Coos County, Northern New Hamp- 
shire, though the name of White Mountains is, in 
the neighborhood, given to the central group only 
—the half-dozen lofty peaks of which Mount Washington is 
the royal head and front. These noble hill-ranges have 
earned for this region the title of the " Switzerland of Amer- 
ica." Their precise latitude is 40 ° 16' 34!" North, and lon- 
gitude 71 ° 20' West. The western cluster is contra-distin- 
guished as the Franconia Range. The White Mountains, 
specifically so-called, extend from the Notch, in a north- 
easterly direction, some 14 miles, increasing from each end 
of the line gradually in hight toward Mount Washington, 
in the centre. These respective elevations are, in the order 
in which they stand, beginning at the Notch : Mount Web- 
ster, 4,oco feet above the level of the sea; Jackson, 4,100 ; 
Clinton, 4,200 ; Pleasant, 4,800 ; Franklin, 4,900 ; Monroe, 
5,300 ; Washington, 6,285 ; Clay, 5,400 ; Adams, 5,800 ; 
Jefferson, 5,710 ; and Madison, 5,361. They were first visited 
by whites, according to Belknap, the State historian, by 
Walter Neal, in 1632. Their aboriginal name was Aglochook 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 51 

or Agiocockook, signifying "Mountain of the Snowy Forehead 
and Home of the Great Spirit." We will suppose our tourist 
to have made his approach by the usually traveled route, i.e., 
from the southeast to the Central or White Mountain group, 
via Lake Winnipisaukee and Conway Valley, and thus meet 
him at the Crawford House, near the Great Notch. 

Tlie Hotels of this region are numerous and generally 
well kept. The Crawford House, situated ioo rods from the 
White Mountain Notch, is a most excellent establishment, 
and bears the name of the earliest hosts in these mountain 
gorges. The story of the adventures and endurance of the 
early settlers here is extremely interesting : how Captain 
Eleazar Rosebrook, of Massachusetts, built a house on the 
site of the Giant's Grave, four miles from the Notch, after- 
ward occupied by Fabyan's Mount Washington Hotel ; how 
his nearest neighbors were 20 miles away, excepting the 
Crawford family, 12 miles down in the Notch valley, the site 
of the present old Crawford House, at the base of the mount- 
ains coming from Conway, on the southeast ; how the Rose- 
brook children were often sent, for family supplies, over the 
long and dangerous path to Crawford's, returning, not unfre- 
quently, late at night ; how Ethan Allen Crawford was heir 
to the Rosebrook estate, and how he became known as the 
" Giant of the Hills" ; how he and his family made the first 
mountain paths,* and were for many years the only guides 
over them of the rare visitors whom the brief summers 
brought ; and how they have since seen their home thronged, 
for weeks together, like a city saloon, with beauty unci fash- 
ion. The Crawfords are a large, athletic race. Abel, the 
father, called the "Patriarch of the Mountains," would walk 



* Th-- first brid'e-path was cut by Ethan Crawford, in i3:i. 



52 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

five mountain miles, to his son's, before breakfast, at the age 
of 80. At 70, he made the first ascent ever made on horse- 
back to the top of Mount Washington. His- sons were all 
over six feet high ; one of them was six and a half feet ; and 
another, Ethan Allen, was seven feet in hight. 

The Glen House, J. M. Thompson, proprietor, occupies a 
delightful locale in the valley of the Peabody River, imme- 
diately under Mount Washington, and in full view of the 
loftiest summits in the whole mountain district. The house 
is situated 830 feet above Gorham, 1,632 feet above tide- 
water, in Bellows's clearing, which contains about 100 acres. 
The house has been enlarged, refurnished, and has accom- 
modation for 1,000 guests. For a base view of the mount- 
ains, no spot could be selected so good as this. Seen from 
the piazza of the hotel, they rise to view in all their silent, 
impressive grandeur. A little to the left is Mount Washing- 
ton. Toward the right of its rock-crowned summit rise, in 
full view, the celebrated peaks of Adams and Jefferson — the 
one pointed, the other rounded. On both wings of these 
towering summits are the tops of lesser elevations. In the 
opposite direction, fronting the " Patriot Group " of gigantic 
forms, is the long, irregular outline of the Carter Mountains. 
Stages leave the Glen House for the Crawford House by 
the Cherry Mountain road, at eight o'clock every morning. 

Tourists approaching the White Mountains from the east, 
via Gorham, will of course make the ascent of Mount Wash- 
ington from the Glen, which is much the easiest and most 
expeditious. A wide, well-macadamized road, eight miles 
long, was completed, from the Glen to the top of Mount 
Washington, in 1861, at a cost of $100,000, and the ascent is 
now made daily, in comfortable Concord coaches, in three 
hours. From three to four hours for pedestrians is con- 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 53 

sidered good time. The distance has been made in much 
less by old mountaineers. The best time to make the ascent 
is between two and five o'clock, p.m., though the majority go 
in the forenoon. The Tip Top and Summit Houses are as 
well kept as the very limited markets and means of trans- 
portation will permit. Charges, $1.50 for breakfast, dinner, 
or tea, and $1.50 for bed. The sunset and sunrise views 
from these points are exceedingly fine in favorable weather. 

The journey from the Crawford House is nine miles, made 
on the backs of Canadian ponies, over the old Crawford 
bridle-paths. The excursion occupies a long day, with the 
utmost industry. We made it, on one occasion, in mid- 
summer, with a party of thirty ladies and gentlemen, besides 
our guides, and it was a gay scene — the getting en rotite — 
and a singular cavalcade miles onward as we wound, in 
Indian file, cautiously along the rugged, narrow path, trust- 
ing to our sure-footed ponies to walk with us upon their 
backs over logs, and rocks, and chasms, which we would not 
have dared to leap ourselves ; and surprising was the picture, 
as we at length bivouacked, and ate our grateful lunch, 
upon the all-seeing crest of the grand old mountain. At 
another time we ascended in the middle of October, when 
we could muster no larger group than our friend, ourself. 
and our guide. For two miles from the summit the way 
was blocked with snow ; so we left our ponies to take care 
of themselves, and completed the tramp on foot. The 
Willey House is passed some miles below the Crawford, at 
the commencement of the ascent to the Notch. The spot 
is one of memorable interest, from its tragic story of the 
fearful avalanches of 1826, when the entire family which then 
occupied the house — Mr. Willey, his wife, five children, and 
two hired men — were all buried beneath the mighty debrii 



54 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

of the mountain-slides. The following are the relative dis- 
tances from the several mountain houses to the Tip Top, on 
Mount Washington : Alpine House, 15 miles ; Brabrook's, 
10 ; Fabyan's, 9 ; Crawford, 9 ; Glen, 7. 

The view from the summit, in favorable weather, is sub- 
lime. In the west, through the blue haze, are seen, in the 
distance, the ranges of the Green Mountains, the remark- 
able outlines of the summits of Camel's Hump and Mansfield 
Mountains being easily distinguished when the atmosphere 
is clear. To the northwest, under your feet, are the clear- 
ings and settlement of Jefferson, and the waters of Cherry 
Pond; and, farther distant, the village of Lancaster, with the 
waters of Israel's River. The Connecticut is barely visible, 
and often its appearance for miles is counterfeited by the 
fog arising from its surface. To the north and northeast, 
only a few miles distant, rise up boldly the great northeast- 
ern peaks of the White Mountain Range — Jefferson, Adams, 
and Madis — with their ragged tops of loose dark rocks. 
A little farther to the east are seen the numerous and dis- 
tant summits of the mountains of Maine. On the southeast, 
close at hand, are the dark and crowded ridges of the mount- 
ains of Jackson ; and beyond, the conical summit of Kear- 
sarge, standing by itself, on the outskirts of the mountains ; 
and, farther over, the low country of Maine and Sebago 
Pond, near Portland. Still farther, it is said, the ocean itself 
has sometimes been distinctly visible. The White Mount- 
ains are often seen from the sea, even at 30 miles distance 
from the shore ; and nothing can prevent the sea from being 
seen from the mountains but the difficulty of distinguishing 
its appearance from that of the sky near the horizon. Far- 
ther to the south are the intervals of the Saco, and the set- 
tlements of Bartlett and Conway, the sister ponds of Lovell, 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 55 

in Fryburg ; and still farther, the remarkable four-toothed 
summit of the Chocorua, the .peak to the right being much the 
largest, and sharply pyramidal. Almost exactly south are 
the shining waters of the beautiful Winnipisaukee, seen with 
the greatest distinctness on a favorable day. To the south- 
west, near at hand, are the peaks of the southwestern range 
of the White Mountains ; Monroe, with its two little alpine 
ponds sleeping under its rocky and pointed summits ; the 
flat surface of Franklin, and the rounded top of Pleasant, 
with their ridges and spurs. Beyond these, the Willey 
Mountain, with its high, ridged summit ; and beyond that, 
several parallel ranges of high-wooded mountains. Farther 
west, and over all, is seen the high, bare summit of Mount 
Lafayette, in Franconia. Visitors to Mount Washington 
should always go well clad. The range of the thermometer, 
even in midsummer, is from 30 ° to 45 °. It frequently falls as 
low as 25 , and sometimes to 20 , or io° below freezing. 

Tucker/nan's Ravine is a marvelous place, seen in the 
ascent of the mountain, by the Davis Road leading from the 
Crawford House. It lies upon the right in passing over tri'e 
high spur directly southeast of Mount Washington. Turn- 
ing aside, the edge of the precipice is reached, and may be 
descended by a rugged pathway. It is a long, deep glen, 
with frowning walls, often quite inaccessible. It is filled hun- 
dreds of feet deep by the winter snows, through which a 
brook steals, as summer suns draw near, gradually widening 
its channel, until it flows through a grand snow cave, which 
was found, one season, by measurement, to be 84 feet wide 
on the inside, 40 feet high, and 180 feet long. The snow 
forming the arch was 20 feet thick. The engineers of the 
carriage-road dined in that snow-arch, July 16, 1854. 

Much as we have necessarily left unseen on the mountains^ 



5G THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

we must now descend, and with a hasty peep at some yet 
unmentioned scenes in the vicinage of the Notch, pass on, 
36 miles, to the Franconia Range in the west. 

Near the summit of Mount Washington, a few rods north- 
ward, is yet another black abyss, which is called the Gulf 
of Mexico. Its descent here is 2,000 feet, rugged, and precipi- 
tous. 

Oakes's Gulf is another fathomless cavern, seen far down 
on the right, in winding around the summit of Mount 
Monroe; 

. Tlfte CSireat Notch forms one of the most interesting 
and most popular features of the White Mountain scenery. 
The Crawford House is the best point from which to visit it 
and the numerous other points in its vicinity. Proceeding 
up the Saco, Mount Crawford and the Gianfs Stairs are dis- 
tinctly visible beyond the river on the right. The southern 
peak of Mount Crawford is 3,200 feet high, and the northern 
3,500. Between them Motutt Resolution rears its head. The 
mountains, which have gradually gathered about us in our 
sleep ascent, have here all closed in. The magnificent pass 
—the gateway of the Notch— is a chasm between two per- 
pendicular masses of rock, approaching each other to within 
22 feet. It was discovered (1771) by two hunters, Nash and 
Sawyer. Colonel Whipple, of Portsmouth, came through 
the following year, as the first settler. This was the tenth 
turnpike built in the State, and was incorporated in 1803. 
Dark overhanging cliffs stand as sentinels over this solemn 
pass, and it has been a work of toil to cut a pathway through 
the frowning barrier. This gorge is some three miles long, 
descending the valley of the Saco, toward the Willey House, 
the scene of the avalanche (August 28, 1826), by which the 
inmates, nine in number, were lost. The house has stood 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 



i 



since 1793. Upon the north, the bold cliffs of Mount Willard 
rise to the hight of 2,000 feet above the Crawford House 
and the quiet vales around it. The view from this eminence 
is one of the finest, if not the finest, in the neighborhood of 
the Crawford. 

The Silver Cascade, sometimes called the " Second Flume," 
is a favorite scene, about half a mile south of the entrance 
to the Notch. It is one of the most charming waterfalls im- 
aginable, seen from the piazza of the hotel, at a distance of 
two miles, bubbling down the mountain side, Coo feet above 
the neighboring valley. The best view is from the bridge. 
Sparkling Cascade and Sylvan Grove Cataract, on Avalanche 
Brook, discovered 1858, should be visited, if time permit. 

The Flume is another cascade, yet farther down the Notch. 
It descends 250 feet, in two rills, over two precipices, and 
there are three streams over a land ledge, re-uniting in a small 
rocky basin below. 

The DeviTs Den is a mysterious cavern, near the top of 
Mount Willard, on its southern side, and opposite the Silver 
and the Flume cascades. Passing westward from the Notch, 
we reach the valley of the Ammonoosuc, after a distance of 
four miles, through dense woods, and enter abruptly into a 
spacious clearing, from which the whole mountain group 
bursts upon our wondering sight. Here, upon the Giant's 
Grave, an eminence of some 60 feet, the panorama is mar- 
velous. In the centre of the amphitheatre of hills, Mount 
Washington, barren and seamed, and whitened by the win- 
ter tempests of centuries, looks down, upon the right and 
upon the left, on the hoary heads of Webster and Madison 
— each, on its side, the outpost of the mountain army. 

The Ammonoosuc River, rising in this group of the White 
Mountains, and followed in the journey toward the Franco- 



53 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

nia Hills, is a stream of wonderful beauty. It falls 6,000 feet 
from its source on the mountain, to the Connecticut River, 
and is said to be the wildest and most impetuous river in 
New Hampshire. It abounds in rapids and cascades. 

The Crystal Falls, of 80 feet, and the Glen Ellis Falls, of 
70 feet, are on the Ellis River, the one on the left and the 
other on the right of the road from Jackson to the Glen 
House. The Hermit's Lake, Lake of the Clouds (the source 
of the Ammonoosuc River), Star Lake, and Spaulding 's Lake, 
are readily reached from the Tip Top House, Mount Wash- 
ington. 

The Dixville Hills are in the extreme northern portion of 
the State, and are as yet but little known. The readiest 
access is by the Grand Trunk Railway and North Strafford, 
36 miles north of Gorham, and thertce up the Connecticut 
River, via Colebrook, to the Monadnock House. Dixville 
Notch is 10 miles from Colebrook. 



We have now peeped hastily at the leading points of in- 
terest in the grand Granite Hills ; much more, of course, is to 
be seen than we have space to describe, or even mention. 
Before closing our chapter, however, we give a tabular list 
of the principal mountain-hights and objects of interest, 
with their distances from each other. 

BEARING AND DISTANCES OF WHITE MOUNTAINS, 

From Mount Washington, 

Miles. 

To Mount Adams 4 N. by E. 

do Jefferson j N. by W. 

do Madison 5 N. N. E. 

do Clay 1 N. W. 

do Monroe I S. W. 

do Franklin 2, S. W. 

do Pleasant 3 S. W. 

do Clinton 4 S. W. 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 5J 

HIGHT, 3E \RI.\G, AS'D DISTANCE 

Of the less important White Mountains, and other mouniains in the vicinity, from 

Mount Washington. 

Distance, Iliirht, 

M L'S. Feet. , 

Davis's Spur 2 5-40° 

Notch Range 8 4.500 

Willey Mountain 8 4-4°° 

Mount Jackson 6 4.100 

Mount Webster 7 4-°°o 

Giant's Stairs 8 }. 500 

Mount Crawford 9 3-2O0 

Mount Moriah 7 4-7°° 

Franconia Mount 20 5.°°° 

Mount Lafayette 1; S-ico 

Twin Mountains 14 4-7oo, S.000 

Mount Carigain 14 4.800 

Moose-hillock Jl 4& : >° 

Saddle Mountain 22 4.000 

Mount Kinsman 25 ... 4* Io:i 

Mount Cannon 20 4.000 

Mount Whiteface 24 4- IO ° 

Ch.corua 22 J,6oo 

Kearsarge 15 i-4°° 

The Franconia Hills, though in popular estimation inferior 
in interest to the eastern cluster, are really not so, except it 
be in the wonders of the mountain ascents ; and even in this, 
the panorama, from the summit of Lafayette, is scarcely less 
extensive or less imposing than the scene from the crown of 
Mount Washington ; while the exquisite little lakes, and the 
singular natural eccentricities in the Franconia group, have 
no counterpart in the other. In this, as in other ranges of 
the White Hills, the mountains are densely wooded at their 
base, while their rock-ribbed summits are barren, and scarred 
by time and tempest. The hills approach, at one point, to 
within half a mile of each other, and form the wild Procrus- 
tean portal called the Notch. The headquarters for tour- 
ists to the Franconia Hills during the past season has been 
the Profile House. The Flume House, it is hoped, will be 
open this season. 



60 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Mount Lafayette, or the Great Haystack, is the monarch 
of the Franconia kingdom, towering up skyward to the hight 
of 5,280 feet. Its lofty pyramidal peaks are the chief objects, 
in all views, for many miles around. 

Eagle Cliff is, a magnificently bold and rocky promontory, 
near Mount Lafayette. It casts its dark shadows down 
many hundred feet into the glen, traversed by the road be- 
neath. 

Cannon, or Profile Mountain, 2,000 feet above the road 
and 4,000 above the sea, is nearly opposite Lafayette, and 
forms the western side of the Notch. Upon its crown is a 
group of mighty rocks, which, as seen from the Profile House 
below, bear an exact resemblance to a mounted cannon. It 
is upon this mountain, also, that we find that marvelous freak 
of Nature, Echo Lake, one of the greatest charms of this part 
of the White Mountain region. It is a diminutive but very 
deep and beautiful pond, north of the Cannon Mountain, en- 
tirely enclosed by high mountains. From the centre of this 
fairy water, a voice, in ordinary tone, will be echoed distinctly 
several times, and the report of a gun breaks upon the rocks 
like the roar of artillery. The Indian superstition was that 
these echoes were the voice of the Great Spirit, speaking in 
gentleness or in anger. To the Profile House is half a mile 
distant. 

The Profile Rock ; or, tlie Old Man of the 
Mountain. — This wonderful eccentricity, so admirably 
counterfeiting a human face, is 80 feet long from the chin to 
the top of the forehead, and though 1,200 feet above the 
level of the road, is yet far below the summit of the mount- 
ain. This strange apparition is formed of three distinct 
masses of rock, one making the forehead, another the nose 
and upper lip, and a third the chin. The rocks are brought 



THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 61 

into the proper relation to form the profile, at one point 
only, viz. : upon the road through the Notch, a quarter of a 
mile south of the Profile House, The face is boldly and 
clearly relieved against the sky, and, except in a little senti- 
ment of weakness about the mouth, has the air of a stern, 
strong character, well able to bear, as he has done unflinch- 
ingly for centuries, the scorching suns of summer and the 
tempest blasts of winter. Passing down the road a little 
way, the " Old Man " is transformed into a " toothless old 
woman in a mob cap," and soon after melts into thin air, 
and is seen no more. Hawthorne has found in this scene 
the theme of one of the pleasantest of his " Twice-Told 
Tales"— that called "The Old Stone Face." 

The Profile Lake is a beautiful little pond, lying at the 
base of the mountain, and immediately under the ever- 
watchful eye of the stern " Old Man." This lakelet is some- 
times called the " Old Man's Wash-bowl." It is a quarter 
of a mile long and about half as wide. Bald Mountain, to 
the summit of which a carriage-road has recently been built, 
affords another pleasant excursion from the Profile House. 

The Basin, another remarkable scene of this neighbor- 
hood, is five miles south of the Notch. It lies near the road- 
side, where the Pemigewasset has worn deep and curious 
cavities in the solid rocks. The basin is 45 feet in diameter, 
and 18 feet from the edge to the bottom of the water. It is 
nearly circular, and has been gradually made by the whirl- 
ing of rocks round and round in the strong current. The 
water, as it comes from the basin, falls into most charming 
cascades. At the outlet, the lower edge of the rocks has 
been worn into a very remarkable likeness of the human leg 
and foot, called the " Old Man's Leg." 

The Flume, the last and most famous, perhaps, of all the 



62 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Franconia wonders, is quickly and easily reached from the 
Flume House. Leaving the road, just below the Basin, we 
turn to the left among the hills, and after a tramp of a mile, 
reach a bare granite ledge ioo feet high and about 30 feet 
wide, over which a small stream makes its varied way. Near 
the top of this ledge we approach the ravine known as the 
Flume. The rocky walls here are 50 feet in hight, and not 
more than 20 feet apart. Through this grand fissure comes 
the little brook which we have just seen. Except in sea- 
sons of freshets, the bed of the stream is narrow enough to 
give the visitor dry passage up the curious glen, which ex- 
tends several hundred feet, the walls approaching, near the 
upper extremity, to within 10 or 11 feet of each other. 
About midway, a tremendous boulder, several tons in 
weight, hangs suspended between the cliffs, where it has 
been caught in its descent from the mountain above. A 
bridge, dangerous for a timid step, has been sprung across 
the ravine, near the top, by the falling of a forest-tree. 

The Pool, a supplemental or tail-piece to the great picture 
of the Flume, is a deep natural well in the solid rock. A 
walk of about a mile, directly in front of the Flume House, 
will conduct the visitor thither. The diameter of the pool is 
about 60 feet ; the depth to the surface of the water is 150 
feet, and the water itself extends 40 feet yet below. Some 
years ago, a poor fellow was unlucky enough to fall into this 
Plutonian cul de sac, but he clung to a crag just above the 
water until ropes were lowered, and he was, wonderful to 
relate, fished up alive, though bruised and not a little scared. 



THE ADIRONDACK REGION. 63 



ROUTE VI. 

The Adirondack Region. 

(For routes, see p, 68.) 




HE upper part of the State of New York, lying west 
and south of Lake Champlain and the St. Law- 
rence River, respectively, is still a wild primitive 
forest region, of the highest interest to the tourist 
for its wonderful natural beauties, and for the ample facilities 
it offers for the pleasures of the rod and the rifle. 

It consists of a plateau or table land, elevated between 
1,500 and 1,800 feet above the ocean level, and is between 80 
and 100 miles across. On the north and east, it approaches 
within 40 miles of the Canada line ; 0:1 the south, within 20 
miles of the Mohawk River ; and on the west, within about 
the sarns distance of the Black River. Its area embraces 
nearly the whole of Essex, Warren and Hamilton counties, 
the southwest portion of Clinton, the southern half of Frank- 
lin, the southeastern third of St. Lawre.ics, the eastern third 
of Lewis, and the northern half of Herkimer. 

Fine mountain-peaks stud the whole region, and charm- 
ing lakes and lakelets are so abundant that travel here is 
made by water instead of by Ian J — traversing the ponds in 



64 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE 

row-boats or canoes, which are carried by easy portage from 
one lovely brook or lake to another. This wilderness land, 
or North Woods, as it is sometimes called, is visited at va- 
rious points under distinctive names. The northern portion 
is known as the Chateaugay Woods ; next below are the St. 
Regis Woods ; then comes the Saranac Lakes and hunting 
grounds ; then Racquette Lake. Eastward rise the famed 
Adirondack Hills ; while further to the south and southwest- 
ward stretch the Lake Pleasant Region and John Brown's 
Tract. Its entire area is equal to the State of Connecticut. The 
centre of this plateau embraces all its distinctive features, 
and is most frequented. It comprises the region of the Sara- 
nac Lakes, the Racquette River from Racquette Lake to Per- 
ciefield Falls, and a track round Tupper's Lake. It abounds in 
beautiful expanses of water, and possesses the loveliest river 
of the forest, the most romantic cascades, one of the high- 
est mountains, and, save one, the grandest gorge. The fa- 
vorite haunts of the moose lie within it ; trout swarm in 
the brooks, and deer are generally plentiful. 

As the Saranac Lakes are generally first visited, we will 
speak of them first. 

They form the links in the great chain of mountain waters 
in Northern New York, and are twelve in number. They 
lie principally in Franklin County, and may be most readily 
reached by stage from Westport or from Keeseville, about 
midway on the western shore of Lake Champlain — taking 
stage or private conveyance thence (30 miles) to the banks of 
the Lower Saranac, which is the outer edge of civilization 
in this direction. From Port Kent y on Lake Champlain, to 
the foot of the Lower Saranac, is an easy day's journey. 
There is a little village and an inn or two at this point, and 
here guides and boats, with all proper camp equipage for 



THE ADIRONDACK REGION. 05 

forest life, may be procured. Baker 's, two miles from the 
Lower Saranac, and Martin's, are pleasant stopping-places. 
For this route the tourist must engage a boatman, who, for 
:i compensation of two or three dollars per day — the price 
will be no more if he should have extra passengers — will 
provide a boat, with tent and cooking apparatus, dogs, rifles, 
etc. The tourist will supply, before starting, such stores as 
coffee, tea, biscuit, etc., and the sport by the way, conducted 
by himself or by his guide, will keep him furnished with 
trout and venison. If camp life should not please him, he 
may, with some little inconvenience, so measure and direct 
his movements, as to sleep in some one or other of the 
shanties of the hunters, or of the lumbermen, found here and 
there on the way. The tent in the forest, however, is greatly 
preferable. 

Returning from St. Regis, and back via the Upper to the 
Middle Saranac, we continue our journey, by portage, to the 
Stony Creek ponds ; thence three miles by Stony Creek 
to the Racquette or Racket River — a rapid stream, with 
wonderful forest vegetation upon its banks. This water, 
followed for some 20 miles, brings us to Tuppers Lake — the 
finest part of the Saranac region. Tupper's Lake is the 
largest of this chain, being seven miles long, and from one to 
two miles broad. The shores and headlands and islands are 
especially picturesque and bold, and at this point the deer is 
much more easily found than elsewhere in the neighborhood. 
Below Tupper's Lake — the waters commingling — is Lough- 
neah, another charming pond. The chain continues on yet 
for miles ; but the Saranac trip proper ends here. This 
mountain voyage and the return to Lake Chaivplain might 
be made in a week ; but two or three, or even more, should 
be given to it. It is seldom that ladiss make the excursion ; 



06 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

but they might do so with great delight. The boatmen and 
hunters of the region are fine, hearty, intelligent, and obliging 
fellows. That wonderful ravine, the " Walled Banks of the 
Au Sable," should be seen by the Saranac tourist on his way 
from Lake Champlain to Keeseville. Hammond, in his ex- 
cellent work, " Hills, Lakes, and Forest Streams," gives an 
excellent route from Dannemora, in Clinton County, via 
Chazy Lake, Bradley's Pond, the Upper Chateaugay, Ragged 
Lake, Indian and Meacham Lakes, Big Clear Pond, St. 
Regis Lake, to the Upper Saranac. 

Leaving the Lower Saranac, we first pass pleasantly some 
half dozen miles ; then make a short portage, the guide car- 
rying the huge boat, by a yoke on his back, to the Middle 
Saranac, whence we may proceed to the upper lake of the 
same name, and thence by a long portage of three miles to 
Lake St. Regis. These are all large and beautiful waters, 
full of picturesque islands, and hemmed in upon all sides by 
fine mountain ranges. Trout may be taken readily at the 
inlets of all the brooks, and deer may be found in the forests 
almost at will. 

We now come to the Adirondack. This region proper 
embraces the eastern portion of the plateau which forms the 
wilderness of northern New York. It may be reached by 
private conveyance, over a rude mountain road, from Schroon 
Lake, above Lake George, or more conveniently from Crown 
Point Village, just beyond the ruins of Fort Ticonderoga, on 
Lake Champlain. The distance thence is some 30 miles, 
and requires a day to travel. 

The Adirondacks (named after the Indian nation which 
once inhabited these fastnesses) lie chiefly in the county of 
Essex, though they extend outside the limits of that county. 

The tourist in this region will move about by land more 



THE ADIRONDACK REGION. 07 

than by water ; for, although the lakes are quite numerous, it is 
among and upon the hills that the chief attractions are to be 
found. The accommodations, though still rude enough, 
are much better than in former years. From Crown Point 
Village the visitor may make a pleasant journey down Lake 
Sandford, near by, on one side, and upon Lake Henderson on 
the other hand. In one he ought to troll for pickerel, and in 
the other cast his fly for trout ; while upon both he may 
enjoy glimpses of the famous mountain-peaks of the Adi- 
rondack group, the cliffs of the Great Indian Pass, of Mounts 
Co/den and Mclntyre, of Echo Mountain, and other bold 
scenes. It will be a day's jaunt for him afterward to explore 
the wild gorge of the Indian Pass, five miles distant ; another 
day's work to visit the dark and weird waters of Avalanche 
Lake ; and yet another to reach the Preston Ponds, five miles 
distant in a different direction. He will find, indeed, occupation 
enough for many days, in exploring these and many other points 
which we cannot now catalogue. In any event, he must have 
two days to do the tramp, par excellence, of the Adirondacks. 

Mount Marcy, or Tahawus, " The Cloud Splitter," flie 
monarch of the group, is 5,467 feet high, and somewhat diffi- 
cult of ascent. Mount Mclntyre has an elevation almost as 
great. The Dial Mountain, McMartin, and Colden, are also 
very lofty peaks, impressively seen from the distance, and in- 
exhaustible in the attractions which their ravines and water- 
falls present. Blue Mountain, Dix's Peak, Nippletop, Cove Hill, 
Moore Mountain, White Face, and other grand peaks, belong 
to the neighboring range called the Keene Mountains. 
White Face is the most northern, and, except Mount Marry, 
the loftiest of the wilderness crests. From its summit thirty 
lakes may be seen. 

Lake Pleasant. — To reach Lake Pleasant and the 



08 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

adjoining waters of Round, Piseco, and Louis Lake — a favor- 
ite and enchanting summer resort and sporting ground — the 
tourist should take the Central Railway from Albany, 33 
miles to Amsterdam, thence by stage or carriage to Holmes s 
Hotel, on Lake Pleasant. The distance from Amsterdam is 
about 30 miles. The stage stops over night at a village, en 
route. Mr. Holmes's house is an excellent place, with no 
absurd luxuries, but with every comfort for which the true 
sportsman can wish. It is a delightful summer home for the 
student, and may be visited very satisfactorily by ladies 
The wild lands and waters hereabout form part of the lake 
region of Northern New York, of which we have already seen 
something on the Saranacs and among the Adirondacks. 
The Saranac region is connected with Lake Pleasant by in- 
termediate waters and portages. Deer and other game are 
abundant in the forests, and fine trout may be taken in all 
the brooks and lakes. Lake Pleasant and its picturesque 
surroundings lie in Hamilton County. 

The following synopsis of routes to the different parts of 
the Wilderness, is gleaned mainly from Alfred B. Street's 
excellent work, " Woods and Waters," which the traveler 
in that region will find invaluable. 

Approved Routes into tlie Northern Wilder- 
ness, from Eastern, Southern, and Western 
New York. 

I.— INTO THE CHATEAUGAY WOODS. 

1st. From Plattsburg to Dannemora State Prison and 
Chazy Lake, 25 to 30 miles. 

2d. From Rouse's Point to Chateaugay Four Corners and 
Chateaugay Lakes. 



THE ADIRONDACK REGION. 69 

II.— INTO THE SARANAC REGION. 

3d. By steamboat to Port Kent (or steamboat or railroad 
to Burlington, opposite), on Lake Champlain ; thence by 
post-coach to Keeseville (Essex County), four miles. The 
Au Sable House is open all summer, and has excellent ac- 
commodation and cheer for visitors. From Keeseville, 16 
miles, to Baker s Saranac Lake House, two miles short of 
the Lower Saranac Lake ; or to Martins, on the banks of 
the Lower Saranac ; or to Bart/ett's, between Round Lake 
and Upper Saranac Lake, 13 miles from Martin's. The 
Keeseville road is a good traveling road, planked from 
Keeseville to Franklin Falls, 30 miles from Keeseville. The 
tourist should remain in Keeseville long enough to visit the 
famous Au Sable Chasm, two miles from the village. The 
Chasm House, just by the Great Fall, affords suitable accom- 
modation. 

At the village of Au Sable Forks, 12 miles from Keeseville, 
the visitor can turn off into a road through the village of Jay, 
intersecting the Elizabethtown road, about 12 miles from 
Baker's. This road leads through the famous White Face 
or Wilmington Notch. 

4th. By steamboat to Westport, on Lake Champlain. 
Thence to Elizabethtown, and thence to Baker's, or Bartlett's, 
or Martin's. This route is about the same distance as the 
Keeseville route, but the road is by no means so good. 

III.— INTO THE ADIRONDACK, RACOUETTE, 
AND HUDSON RIVER REGIONS. 

5th. From Crown Point, on Lake Champlain, to Roofs, 
about 20 miles. From Root's to the Adirondack Lower 
Works, 20 miles ; thence to Long Lake, 20 miles. A stage 
runs from Root's to Long Lake, usually once a week during 



70 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

the summer. From the Lower Works to the Adirondack 
village or Upper Works, by water (through Lake Sanford), 
10 or 12 miles ; by road, distance about the same. From 
the Upper Works to Mount Tahawus (Mount Marcy), four 
miles, and three miles to the top. From the Upper Works to 
the famous Indian Pass (the most majestic natural wonder, 
next to Niagara, in the State), four miles. From the Indian 
Pass to Scotfs, on the Elizabethtown road (through the 
wood, with scarcely a path), seven miles ; thence to Baker's 
(over a road), 14 miles. 

6th. From Glenn's Falls to Roofs, over a good road, 30 
miles, viz. : from Glenn's Falls to Lake George, nine miles ; 
thence to Warrensburg, six miles ; thence to Chester, eight 
or ten miles ; thence to Pottersville, six or eight miles ; 
thence to Root's, and thence to Long Lake, or the Lower or 
the Upper "Works ; or, from Pottersville to the Boras River, 
15 miles. 

7th. From Carthage, in Jefferson County (by way of the 
Beach Road), to Long Lake, 40 to 50 miles ; thence to Pen- 
dleton, 10 miles ; thence to Hudson River Bridge, about five 
miles ; thence to the Lower Works, about five miles. Can 
drive the whole distance from Carthage to the Lower 
Works. 

8th. From Fort Edward to Glenn's Falls and Lake 
George ; thence to Johnsburg ; thence to North Creek ; 
thence to Eagle Lake or Tallow Lake (the middle of the 
three Blue Mountain Lakes). From North Creek to Eagle 
Lake, the distance is 20 miles. 

qth. By road from Saratoga Springs to Lakes Pleasant 
and Piseco. 



THE ADIRONDACK REGION. 71 

IV.— INTO THE JOHN BROWN'S TRACT. 

ioth. From Utica by railroad to Booneville ; thence tc 
Lyonsdale and Port Leyden, 7 miles by stage road ; 
thence to Deacon Abby's Place, .5^- miles, over a good road ; 
thence to Arnold's (over rather a poor road, although pass- 
able by wagon), 14 miles. 

nth. From Utica by railroad to Booneville; thence to 
Booth's Mills, n miles, over a good wagon road ; thence to 
Arnold's, by pack-horses (sent by Arnold to Booth's Mills), 
i%\ miles, over rather a rough road. 

1 2th. From Utica by railroad to Alder Creek ; thence by 
road to the Reservoir Lakes. 

13th. From the village of Prospect (Oneida County, 
reached by railroad), through Herkimer County, to More- 
house, in Hamilton County. 

14th. From Ogdensburg to Potsdam, on the Racquette 
River, by Ogdensburg and Lake Champlain Railroad ; thence to 
Colton by stage, 10 miles ; thence to the foot of the Little 
Bog, at McEwen's, on the Racquette River, 12 miles, by private 
conveyance, over a good road ; thence by boat 1 V miles, to 
Bolj Falls ; thence a short portage on east side of river ; thence 
to Harris's piace, 4! miles, opposite the mouth of the Jordan 
River; the> ze 3} miles by wagon road to John Ferry's; 
thence three miles farther on, same road, to foot of Moose- 
Head Still Water ; thence through the latter, six miles ; 
thence nine miles to Racquette Pond ; and thence five miles 
to Big Tapper's Lake, 



72 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 



ROUTE VII. 

Niagara Falls. 




HOUGH recently robbed of its long-enjoyed pre- 
eminence as the greatest of American cataracts, 
Niagara still holds, by right of old acquaintance, 
the first place in popular regard. 
Travelers over the great Continental Railway, which now 
stretches its iron bands from ocean to ocean, will step aside 
to feast their wondering eyes upon the Falls of the Great 
Snake River, in Oregon. And the voyageur to the Pacific, 
as he recounts to the curious and expectant crowds at home 
his experience in the famed Yo-semite, at Yo-wi-he, Bridal 
Veil, and Pi-wy-ack, will yet turn, with all the tenderness 
and trust of a first love, to Niagara, hallowed as it is by as- 
sociation, and endeared through many a long year of pil- 
grimage and many a page of poesy. 

We cannot easily efface the impression which the first 
view of the mighty tempest of waters left on our mind ; nor 
would we, if we could. Higher waterfalls there are ; greater 
volumes of water there may be ; but there is certainly none 
which presents to the eye of the beholder, on so grand and 
impressive a scale, all the elements which combine to form a 
picture at once Striking and permanently suggestive. Until 



NIAGARA FALLS. 73 

commerce and the roving propensities of our people shall so 
populate the Great West as to render it possible to deter- 
mine reliably the wonders of the Rocky Mountains and Col- 
orado region, Niagara will continue to hold its proud posi- 
tion. 

The Falls are situated on tne river of the same name, a 
strait connecting the floods of Lakes Erie and Ontario, and 
dividing a portion of the State of New York, on the west, 
from the province of Canada. The cataracts thus lie within 
the territory both of Great Britain and the United States. 
They are some 20 miles below the entrance of the river, at 
the northeast extremity of Lake Erie, and about 14 miles 
above its junction with Lake Ontario. 

The River Niagara (signifying, in the Iroquois language, 
"Thunder of Waters") takes its rise in the western ex- 
tremity of Lake Erie, and after flowing 33} miles, enters Lake 
Ontario, which is 334 feet below Lake Erie. The waters for 
which the Niagara is the outlet cover an area of 150,000 
square miles — floods so grand and inexhaustible as to be 
utterly unconscious of the loss of the hundred millions of 
tons which they pour every hour, through succeeding cen- 
turies, over these stupendous precipices. 

In approaching the Falls by the accustomed route — over 
the Central Railway to the Suspension Bridge— the Ameri- 
can traveler will, in favorable weather, just hear the roar of 
its mighty waters, a few miles from the town of Lo:kport, 
situated on the Rochester division of the Central Railway, 
21 miles east of the Falls. 

The best approach to the Falls is that most usually 
taken, viz., by the American shore. " The descent of about 
200 feet, by the staircase, brings the traveler directly under 
the shoulder and edge of the American Fall, the most irn~ 



74 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

posing scene, for a single object, that he probably has ever 
witnessed. The long column of sparkling water seems h as 
he stands near it, to descend to an immeasurable depth, and 
the bright sea-green curve above has the appearance of being 
set into the sky. The tremendous power of the fall, as well 
as the hight, realizes his utmost expectations. He descends 
to the water's edge and embarks in a ferry-boat, which 
tosses like an egg-shell on the heaving and convulsed water, 
and in a minute or two he finds himself in the face of the 
vast line of the Falls, and sees with surprise that he has ex- 
pended his fullest admiration and astonishment upon a mere 
thread of Niagara — the thousandth part of its wondrous vol- 
ume and grandeur. From the point where he crosses to 
Table Rock, the line of the Falls measures three-quarters 
of a mile in length ; and it is this immense extent which, 
more than any other feature, takes the traveler by surprise. 
The current at the ferry sets very strongly down, and the 
athletic men who are employed here keep the boat up against 
it with difficulty. Arrived near the opposite landing, how- 
ever, there is a slight counter-current, and the large rocks 
near the shore serve as a breakwater, behind which the 
boat runs smoothly to her moorings." The passage is now 
safely and pleasantly made by the steamer " Maid of the 
Mist." 

It is from the American side of the river that access is had 
to the hundred points of interest and surprise in the famous 
Goat Island vicinage, with its connecting bridges, its views 
of the Rapids, of the Cave of the Winds, of the scene of 
Sam Patch's great leap, and of its bold over-topping tower ; 
and in other neighborhoods, of the Whirlpool, of the Chasm 
Tower, and the Devil's Hole. 

A totally different and not less wonderful gallery of nat- 



NIAGARA FALLS. 75 

ural master-pieces is opened upon the Canada shore — the 
terrible marvels of the Table Rock above, and of Termina- 
tion Rock behind the Horse-Shoe Fall ; the noble panorama 
from the piazzas of the Clifton House, the Burning Spring, 
the historical village of Chippewa, and the battle-field of 
Lundy's Lane, Bender's Cave, etc. 

Goat Island (American side.) — Leaving the Cataract 
House, take the first left-hand street, two minutes' walk to 
the bridge, which leads to the toll-gate on Bath Island. 
This bridge is itself an object of wonder, in its apparently 
rash and dangerous position. It is, however, perfectly safe, 
and is crossed hourly by heavy-laden carriages. 

The Rapids, as seen on the way to Goat Island, are impres- 
sive. The river descends 51 feet in a distance of three-quar- 
ters of a mile by this inextricable turmoil of waters. It is one 
of the most striking features of the Niagara scenery. Standing 
on the bridge, and gazing thence up the angry torrent, the 
leaping crests seem like "a battle-charge of tempestuous 
waves animated and infuriated against the sky. Nearer 
the plunge of the Fall, the Rapids become still more agitated, 
and it is impossible for the spectator to rid himself of the 
idea that they are conscious of the abyss to which they arc 
hurrying, and struggle back in the very extremity of horror. 
This propensity to invest Niagara with a soul and human feel- 
ings is a common effect upon the minds of visitors, in every 
part of its wonderful phenomena. The torture of the Rapids, 
the clinging curves with which they embrace the small rocky 
islands that live amid the surge ; the sudden calmness at the 
brow of the cataract,and the infernal writhe and whiteness with 
which they re-appear, powerless from the depths of the aln ss 
— all seem, to the excited imagination of the gazer, like the 



76 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

natural effects of impending ruin — desperate resolution and 
fearful agony on the minds and frames of mortals." 

Chaphis Island is upon the right of the bridge, within a 
short distance of the American Fall. It is named in memory 
of a workman whose life was imperilled by falling into the 
stream, as he was laboring upon the bridge. Mr. Robinson 
went gallantly and successfully to his relief in a skiff. 

The Toll Gate is upon Bath Island, where baths, warm 
and otherwise, are accessible at all times to visitors. A fee 
of 25 cents paid here, gives you the freedom of Goat Island, 
during all your stay, be it for the year or less. Near this 
point are Ship and Big islands. There is here a very exten- 
sive paper-mill. Crossing another small bridge, we stand 
upon Iris Island. (See Prospect Tower.) The only place 
of habitation here is a house at which the traveler can sup- 
ply himself with refreshments of all inviting kinds, and store 
his trunks with every variety of samples of Indian ingenuity 
and labor. The place is called the Indian Emporium. 
Three routes over the island diverge at this point. The 
principal path followed by most visitors is that to the right, 
which keeps the best of the sights, as Wisdom always does, 
until the last, affording less striking views of the Falls than 
do the other routes at first, but far surpassing them both in 
its grand finale. This way conducts to the foot of the island, 
while the left-hand path seeks the head, and the middle 
winds across. Taking the right-hand path, then, from the 
Toll Gate, we come, first, to the centre Fall, called The Cave 
of the Winds (see Termination Rock), mid-distant nearly 
between the American and the Horse-Shoe Falls. This 
wonderful scene is best and most securely enjoyed from the 
spacious flat rock beneath. The cave is 100 feet high, and 
of the same extent in width. You can pass safely into the 



NIAGARA FALLS. 77 

recess behind the water, to a platform beyond. Magical 
rainbow-pictures are formed at this spot ; sometimes bows 
of entire circles, and two or three at once, are seen. At the 
foot of Goat Island the Three Profiles form an object of cu- 
rious interest. These profiles, seemingly some two feet 
long, are to be seen, one directly above the other, as you 
look across the first sheet of water, directly under the lowest 
point of rock. They are sometimes called the Three Sisters. 

Luna Island is reached by a foot bridge, from the right of 
Goat Island. It has an area of some three-quarters of an 
acre. The effective rainbow forms, seen at this point, have 
given it the name it bears. A child of eight years once fell 
into the torrent, at this point, and was lost, together with a 
gallant lad who jumped in to rescue her. Biddies Stairs, on 
the west side of the island, was named after Nicholas Bid- 
die, of United States Bank fame, by whose order they were 
built. " Make us something," he is reported to have said to 
the workmen, "by which we may descend and see what is 
below." At the base of these spiral stairs, which are se- 
cured to the rocks by strong iron fastenings, there are two 
diverging paths. The «/-river way, toward the Hors2-Shoe 
Fall, is difficult, and much obstructed by fallen rocks ; but 
down the current a noble view is gained of the centre fall 
or Cave of the Winds. Sam Patch's Leap.— It was upon the 
west side of Goat Island, near Biddle's Stairs, that the re- 
nowned jumper, Sam Patch, made two successful leaps into 
the waters below, saying, as he went off, to the throng of 
spectators, that " one thing might be done as well as ano- 
ther !" The fellow made one jump too much, within the 
same year (1829), over the Genesee Falls, at Rochester. 

Re-ascending the Biddle Stairs, we come, after a few rods' 
travel, to a resting-place at a little house, and thence we go 



78 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

down the bank, and crossing a bridge, reach Prospect (Ter- 
rapin) Tower. This precarious-placed edifice, which seems 
to have " rushed in, as fools do, where angels fear to tread," 
is on Iris Island, very near the edge of the precipice, above 
which it rises some 45 feet in the air. From the top, which 
is surrounded by an iron railing, a magnificent scene is pre- 
sented — a panorama of the Niagara wonders — the like of 
which can be seen from ro other point. Here a register for 
visitors is kept. 

The Iiorse-Slioe Fall — always marvelous, from 
whatever position it is viewed — forms the connecting link 
between the scenes of the American and Canadian sides of 
the river. This mighty cataract is 144 rods across, and it is 
said by Professor Lyell that fifteen hundred millions of cubic 
feet of water pass over its ledges every hour. One of the 
condemned lake ships (the Detroit) was sent over this fall in 
1829, and, though she drew over 18 feet of water, she did 
not touch the rocks in passing over the brink of the preci- 
pice, showing a solid body of water, at least some twenty 
feet deep, to be above the ledge. We shall return to the 
Horse-Shoe Fall from the Canada side. 

Gull Island, just above, is an unapproachable spot, upon 
which it is not likely or possible that man has ever yet stood. 
There are three other small isles seen from here, called the 
Three Sisters. Near the Three Sisters, on Goat Island, is 
the spot remembered as the resort of an eccentric character, 
and called, after him, the Bathing-Place of Francis Abbott the 
Hermit. At the head of Goat Island is Navy Island, near 
the Canada shore. It was the scene of incidents in the 
Canadian rebellion of 1837-38, known as the McKenzie 
War. Chippewa, which held at that period some 5,000 
British troops, is upon the Canadian shore, nearly opposite. 



NIAGARA FALLS. 79 

It was near Fort Schlossjr, hard by, that, about this period, 
the American steamboat Caroline was set on fire, and sent 
over the Falls, by the order of Col. McXabb, a British officer. 
Some fragments of the wreck lodged on Gull Island, where 
they remained until the following spring. 

Grand Island, which contains n,ooo acres, was the. spot on 
which Major M. M. Noah hoped to assemble all the Hebrew 
populations of the world. Near the ferry there was once an 
observatory or pagoda, ioo feet high, from which a grand 
view of the region was gained. This spot is called Point 
View. 

The Whirlpool. — Three miles below the Falls (American 
side) is the Whirlpool, resembling in its appearance the 
celebrated Maelstrom on the coast of Norway. It is oc- 
casioned by the river making nearly a right angle, while it is 
here narrower than at any other place, not being more than 
30 rods wide, and the current running with such velocity as 
to rise up in the middle several feet above the sides. This has 
been ascertained by measurement. There is a path leading 
down the bank to the Whirlpool on both sidss, and, though 
somewhat difficult to descend and ascend, it is accomplished 
almost every day. 

The Devils Hole is a mile below the Whirlpool. It em- 
braces about two acres, cut out laterally and perpendicularly 
in the rock by the side of the river, and is 150 feet deep. 
An angle of this hole or gulf comes within a few feet of the 
stage-road, affording travelers an opportunity, without alight- 
ing, of looking into the yawning abyss. But they should 
alight, and pass to the farther side of the flat projecting rock, 
where they will feel themselves richly repaid for their trouble. 
Into the Devil's Hole falls a stream known by the unpoetical 
name of the Bloody Run. 



80 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Cliasiil Tower, three and a half miles below the 
Falls, is 75 feet high, and commands fine views (seen, if you 
please, in all hues, through a specular medium) of all the 
country round. A fee is required. The Suspension Bridge 
spans the river two miles below the Falls. Its total length, 
from centre to centre of the towers, is 800 feet ; its hight 
above the water, 25 S feet. The first bridge, which was built 
by Mr. Charles Ellett, was a very light and fairy-like affair, 
in comparison with the present substantial structure. The 
bridge, as it now stands, was constructed under the direction 
of Mr. John A. Roebling, at a cost of $500,000. The same able 
architect and engineer has recently completed the suspen- 
sion bridge across the Ohio, at Cincinnati. The towers are 
66 feet high, 15 feet square at the base, and 8 feet at the top. 
The bridge is supported by four cables, each being nine and 
a half inches in diameter, and composed of 8,000 wires. It 
was first crossed by the locomotive, March 8. 1855. Twenty- 
eight feet below the floor of the railway tracks, a carriage and 
footway is suspended. This bridge is used at present, by the 
New York Central, the Erie, and the Great Western (Canada) 
roads. Having examined the bridge, we will now cross it to 
the opposite shore. Taking a carriage at our hotel, on the 
American side, we may " do " the Canadian shore very com- 
fortably between breakfast and dinner, if we have no more 
time to spare. The regular price of carriage hire at the 
livery stable is one dollar per hour. Make your contract 
when you engage, as overcharges are fashionable. On the 
plank road, going and returning, the toll is five cents ; at the 
bridge, for each foot passenger, going and returning the 
same day, 25 cents, or 12J cents each way ; if the passenger 
does not return, the bridge toll is still 25 cents. For each 



NIAGARA FALLS. 81 

carriage (two horses), going and returning, 50 cents for each 
passenger, and 50 cents besides for the carriage. 

A plank road leads froiri the opposite terminus of the 
bridge to the Clifton House. At the bridge is shown a 
basket in which Mr. Ellett, his wife, and other ladies and 
gentlemen, crossed over the river on a single wire, about one 
inch in diameter — a perilous journey across such a gorge 
and at an elevation in the air of 280 feet ! Two or three 
persons thus crossed at a time, the basket being let down on 
an inclined plane to the centre of the towers (this was during 
the building of the first suspension bridge), and then drawn 
up by the help of a windlass to the opposite side. The 
usual time in crossing was from three to four minutes. By 
the means of this basket the lives of four men were once 
saved, when the planks of the foot-bridge were blown off in 
a violent storm, and they were suspended over the river by 
only two strands of wire, which oscillated with immense 
rapidity 60 or 70 feet. The basket was sent to their relief, 
at a moment when the hurricane grew less fearful, and they 
descended into it by means of a ladder, one at a trip only, 
until all were released from their terrible position. The ex- 
ploits of Blondin and Leslie, with which our readers are all 
doubtless familiar, have since thrown these ventures far in 
the shade. 

Bender's Cave is midway between the Suspension Bridge 
and the Clifton House. It is a recess six feet high and 
twenty in length, made by a decomposition of the limestone. 

The Clifton House is an old and very favorite resort here, 
famed for its home luxuries and for its noble position, over- 
looking the river and Falls. It was the residence of Mdlle. 
Jennv Lind during her visit to Niagara. It stands nearly 
opposite the centre of the irregular crescent formed by the 
6 



82 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Falls ; but it is so far back from the line of the arc, that the 
hight and grandeur of the two cataracts, to an eye un- 
acquainted with the scene, are respectively diminished. 
After once making the tour of the points of view, however, 
the distance and elevation of the hotel are allowed for by 
the eye, and the situation seems most advantageous. 

Table Rock exists now only in name and the sort of post- 
humous interest which attaches to the spot where it stood. 

The grand overhanging platform called Table Rock, and 
the fearful abysmal scene at the very base of the mighty 
Horse-Shoe Fall, once constituted one of the cardinal won- 
ders of Niagara. This famous rock fell in 1862 ; but the 
vicinity is still a place much resorted to by visitors at the 
Falls. If one would listen to the terrible noise of the great 
cataract, let him come here, where the sound of its hoarse 
utterance drowns all lesser sounds, and his own speech is 
inaudible to himself. 

Termination Rock occupies a recess behind the centre of 
the Horse-Shoe Fall, reached by the descent of a spiral stair- 
way from Table Rock, the traverse for a short distance of 
the rude marge of the river, and then of a narrow path over 
a frightful ledge, and through the blinding spray, behind the 
mighty fall. Before descending, visitors should make a 
complete change of toilet for a rough costume more suitable 
for the stormy and rather damp journey before them. When 
fully equipped, their ludicrous appearance excites, for a 
while, a mirthful feeling, in singular contrast with the solemn 
sentiment of all the scene around them. This strange expe- 
dition, often made even by ladies, has been thus described : 
" The guide went before, and we followed close under the 
cliff. A cold, clammy wind blew strong in our faces from the 
moment we left the shelter of the staircase, and a few steps 



NIAGARA FALLS. 83 

brought us into a pelting fine rain, that penetrated even- 
opening of our dresses and made our foothold very slippery 
and difficult. We were not yet near the sheet of water we 
were to walk through ; but one or two of the party gave out 
and returned, declaring it was impossible to breathe ; and 
the rest, imitating the guide, bent nearly double to keep the 
beating spray from their nostrils, and pushed on, with enough 
to do to keep sight of his heels. We arrived near the diffi- 
cult point of our progress ; and in the midst of a confusion 
of blinding gusts, half-deafened, and more than half-drowned, 
the guide stopped to give us a hold of his skirts, and a little 
counsel. All that could be heard amid the thunder of the 
cataract beside us was an injunction to push on when it got 
to the worst, as it was shorter to get beyond the sheet than 
to go back ; and with this pleasant statement of our dilem- 
ma, we faced about with the longest breath we could draw, 
and encountered the enemy. It may be supposed that every 
person who has been dragged through the column of water 
which obstructs the entrance to the cavern behind this cata- 
ract, has a very tolerable idea of the pains of drowning. 
What is wanting in the density of the element is more than 
made up by the force of the contending winds, which rush 
into the mouth, eyes and nostrils, as if flying from a water- 
fiend. The ' courage of worse behind ' alone persuades the 
gasping sufferer to take one desperate step more." 

The Museum, near Table Rock, contains more than 10,000 
specimens of minerals, birds, fishes and animals, many of 
which were collected in the neighborhood of the Falls. 
Admittance — which includes the use of the dress, and ad- 
mittance to the Cave of the Winds, 50 cents. The Burning 
Spring is near the water, two miles above the Falls. The 
carbonated sulphuretted hydrogen gas here gives out a bril- 



84 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

liant flame when lighted. The hight of the American Fall 
is 164 feet, that of the Canadian or Horse-Shoe, 150 feet ; 
the former is 900 feet across, the latter 1,900. The roar of 
the waters has been heard at Toronto, 44 miles away, and 
yet in some states of wind and atmosphere it is scarcely per- 
ceptible in the immediate neigborhood. Niagara presents a 
new and most unique aspect in winter, when huge icicles 
hang from the precipices, and immense frozen piles of a 
thousand fantastic shapes glitter in the bright sunlight. 
Father Hennepin, a Jesuit missionary, was the first Euro- 
pean who ever saw Niagara. His first visit was in 1678. 

In the vicinity of Niagara is Lewistoit, seven miles distant, 
at the head of navigation on Lake Ontario, and directly 
opposite Lewiston is Queenstown. Queenstown is well 
worthy a visit from the sojourner at the Falls, and affbrds a 
most delightful drive. It is historically as well as pictorially 
interesting. Here General Brock and his aid-de-camp Mc- 
Donnell fell, October 11, 1812. Brock's Monument, which 
crowns the hights above the village, is 185 feet high, sur- 
mounted by a dome of nine feet, which is reached by a spi- 
ral flight of 250 steps, from the base inside. The remains 
of Brock and his comrade lie in stone sarcophagi beneath, 
having been removed thither from Fort George. This is the 
second monument erected on the spot, the first having been 
destroyed by Lett, in 1840. 



THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. g5 




ROUTE VIII. 

The St. Lawrence River. 



IAGARA, and then the St. Lawrence ! No more 
fitting sequel to a sojourn at the Great Cataract 

I than a sail down Lake Ontario and its majestic 
outlet to the ocean — the St. Lawrence. The " St. 



Lawrence Tour," as it is generally known, may be properly 
commenced by the American tourist either at Montreal, 
Quebec or Niagara, the selection of a starting-point being 
determined in most cases by the line of travel selected before 
leaving home. Each has its peculiar advantages ; but that 
down the river from the Falls is recommended as affording 
the finest views, and, at the season at which it is usually 
taken, the most favorable weather for sight-seeing. 

We will suppose the traveler to be leaving Niagara about 
the beginning or middle of August, intending to visit Mont- 
real, Quebec, and the Saguenay, and to find his way back 
into the Union again, via Portland or the White Mountains. 

From Niagara, eastward, the traveler has choice of four 
routes — three by rail and steamer, one by steamer direct. 
First, over the Central Railway via Charlotte ; second, via 
Syracuse and Osvego ; third, via Rome and Sackett's Har- 



S6 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

bor ; and fourth, by the American fast line of steamers on 
Lake Ontario, through, with one change at Ogdensburg, to 
Montreal. There is still another, which has become popular 
of late years, viz., that by boat across the western end of the 
lake to Toronto, and thence by Grand Trunk Railway to 
Montreal. 

Those desirous of avoiding the lake and of "doing" Can- 
ada, may go by the Great Western Railway, via St. Catharine, 
to Hamilton, and thence by branch road, 38 miles, to Toronto. 
On the whole, however, for the large majority of tourists, the 
direct boat route from Lewiston to Ogdensburg and Mont- 
real will be found much the best. The majority of Ameri- 
can travelers in Canada, however, proceed first to Montreal, 
and extend their tour on the Upper and Lower St. Lawrence 
from that point, and for their convenience we will make that 
our starting-point. 

Montreal, the metropolis of British North America, is situ- 
ated on an island of the same name, about thirty miles long 
and ten wide, which is formed by a branch of the Ottawa on 
the north and the St. Lawrence on the south, and lies at the 
foot of a mountain, to which Jacques Carrier, in 1535, survey- 
ing with delight the magnificent prospect, gave the name of 
" Mont Royal." The present site of Montreal was occupied,, 
at the time of Cartier's first visit, by an Indian village called 
Hochelaga. In 1542 the first European settlers arrived, and 
just one century later the original Indian name, consequent 
on the consecration of the spot on which the future city was 
to stand, and its commendation to La Reine des Anges, gave 
place to the French one of " Ville Marie." This new name, 
in its turn, was replaced by the present one, in 1760, the date 
of British possession, at which period Montreal had become 
a well-peopled and well-fortified town. Its population is now 



THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. §7 

(1869) estimated at 145,000, and is rapidly on the increase. 
The main branch of the Ottawa, which is the timber highway 
to Quebec, passes North of Montreal Island, and enters the 
St. Lawrence about 18 miles below the city ; about one-third 
of its waters is, however, discharged into Lake St. Louis, 
and joining but not mingling at Caughnawaga, the two dis- 
tinct bodies pass over the Scult St. Louis and Lachine 
Rapids — the dark waters of the Ottawa washin ; the quays of 
Montreal, while the blue St. Lawrence occupies the other 
shore. Nor do they merge their distinctive character until 
they are several miles below Montreal. The quays of Mont- 
real are unsurpassed by those of any city in America; built 
of solid limestone, and uniting with the locks and cut-stone 
wharves of the Lachine Canal, the)' - present for several miles 
a display of continuous masonry, which has few parallels. 
Unlike the levees of the Ohio and the Mississippi, no un- 
sightly warehouses disfigure the river-side — a broad espla- 
nade or terrace, built of limestone, the parapets of which are 
surmounted with a substantial iron railing. 

The houses in the suburbs are handsomely built in the 
modern style, and mostly inhabited by the wealthy merchants. 
Including its suburbs, of which it has several, the city 
stretches along the river for two miles, from southwest to 
northeast, and for some distance extends between one and 
two miles inland. St. Paul Street, the chief commercial 
thoroughfare, extends along the river the whole length of 
the cit)\ Great St. James and Notre-Dame streets are the 
fashionable promenades. Montreal, with its beautiful villas, 
its glittering roofs and domes (all the latter being covered 
with tin), its tall spires and lofty towers, and its majestic 
mountain in the background, bursting on the eye of the 
tourist, approach it from what direction he may, forms, 



88 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

together with the noble river, a vast and picturesque pano- 
rama, that is, perhaps, unequalled on the whole American 
continent. 

Montreal is conspicuous among the cities of the New 
World for the number and magnificence of her public build- 
ings. The principal of these is the Cathedral de JVotre-Dame, 
said to be the largest church on the continent. The cost of 
the cathedral was $400,000, and it is capable of seating 
10,000 persons. It is surmounted by two stately towers, 
each 220 feet high, from the top of which is a complete view 
of the city, of the River St. Lawrence, the colossal tubular 
bridge, and the blue hills of Vermont in the distance. At 
certain hours of the day a chime of bells peal forth their 
merry notes from the northeast tower, and from the north- 
west is sometimes heard the hoarse, hollow tone of the 
" Gros Bourdon," which weighs 29,400 pounds. This noble 
edifice is 255 feet long and 135 broad. The Bonsecours 
Market is an imposing Doric edifice, erected at a cost of 
$300,000, and, as regards the convenience of its arrangements 
and the spaciousness of its construction, it throws into the 
shade all similar structures on this continent. In one of the 
upper stories are the offices of the Corporation and Council 
Chamber, and a concert or ball room capable of accommo- 
dating 4,000 people. The view from the dome, overlooking 
the river and St. Helen's Isle, is very fine. 

The Nelson Monument, an elegant column erected to the 
memory of that renowned naval hero, stands at the head of 
the Place Jacques Cartier. 

The Seminary of St. Sulpice, adjoining the Cathedral Notre 
Dame, is 132 feet long and 29 deep, and is surrounded by 
spacious gardens and court-yards. 

The Bank of Montreal and the City Bank, the first a fine 



THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 89 

example of Corinthian architecture, stand side by side on the 
Place d'Armes. 

St. Patrick's Church occupies a commanding position at 
the west end of Lagauchetiere Street. The Bishop's Church 
(Catholic), in St. Denis Street, is a very elegant structure. 
The remaining Catholic churches are the Recollect, in Notre- 
Dame Street, the Bonsecours, near the large market, and 
St. Mary's, in Griffintown. There are also chapels attached 
to all the nunneries, in some of which excellent pictures may 
be seen. 

The Gray Nuns, in Foundling Street, was founded in 1692, 
for the care of lunatics and children. The Hotel Dieu was 
established in 1644, for the sick generally. The Black or 
Congregational Nunnery, in Notre-Dame Street, dates from 
1659. The stranger desirous of visiting either of the nun- 
neries should apply to the Lady Superior for admission, 
which is seldom refused. 

The Protestant churches worthy of notice are St. Andrew's 
Church, a beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture, being a 
close imitation of Salisbury Cathedral, in England, though of 
course on a greatly reduced scale. This, with St. Paul's 
C/ntrch'm St. Helen Street, are in connection with the Estab- 
lished Church of Scotland. The Episcopalian churches are, 
the beautiful new edifice, Christ Church Cathedral, St. George ' s 
C/iurch, in St. Joseph Street, St. Stephen's^ in Griffintown, 
Trinity, in St. Paul Street, and St. Thomas's, in St. Mary Street. 
The Church of the Independent, in Radegonde Street, is his- 
torically interesting as the scene of the sad riot and loss of life 
on the occasion of Gavazzi's lecture, in 1852. The newly- 
erected Jesuit Church, in Bleury Street, has the most highly 
ornamented interior to be found in the city. The Free 
Church has also two places of worship, one in Cote Street, 



90 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

and one in St. Gabriel Street ; besides these there are the 
American and the United Presbyterian, the Baptist, and 
the Unitarian churches, and a small Jewish synagogue, the 
last named being classical in design. The Court-House is one 
of the most striking of the architectural specialties of the 
city. The Post-Office is in Great James Street. The Custom- 
House is a neat building on the site of an old market-place, 
between St. Paul Street and the river. The Merchants' 
Exchange and Reading-Room are in St. Sacrament Street. 
The latter is a large and comfortable room, well supplied 
with newspapers and periodicals, English and American, all 
at the service of the stranger, when properly introduced. The 
General Hospital and St. Patrick's Hospital are in Dorchester 
Street, the latter, however, at the west end of the town. 
McGiil's College is beautifully situated at the base of the 
mountain. 

The Water-works, located a mile or so from the city, are 
worth visiting. 

The Victoria Bridge, which spans the great St. Lawrence 
River, is " the lion " par excellence of Montreal, the link of 
the Grand Trunk Railway, connecting (for railway purposes 
only) the city of Montreal, on the island, with the main-land 
to the south, giving to the ancient Hochelaga an unbroken 
railway communication of 1,100 miles in length, besides " con- 
nections." It is the grandest structure of its kind in the 
world. Its length is 9,194 feet, or nearly 2 miles. It rests 
upon 24 piers and 2 abutments of solid masonry, the central 
span being 330 feet in length. The heavy iron tube through 
which the railway track is laid, is, in its largest dimensions, 
22 feet high and 16 feet wide. The total cost of this bridge 
was $6,300,000 It was formally opened by the Prince of 
Wales during his visit to America, in the summer of i860. 



THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 91 

The Museum of the Natural History Society, near the 
Crystal Palace, is well worth seeing. 

The Mount Royal Cemetery is prettily located 2 miles from 
the city, on the northern slope of the mountain. 

A few days spent in Montreal, will suffice to see all its 
main features and objects of interest. Leaving Montreal for 
the upper St. Lawrence, the traveler will soon reach 

Tlie Ottawa River, which flows 800 miles, and enters 
the St. Lawrence on both sides of the island of Montreal, 
traversing in its way Lake Temi seaming, Grand Lake, and 
others. Rapids and falls greatly impede the navigation of its 
waters, but lend to them wonderful beauty. The Valley of 
the Ottawa is yet a wild forest region, but little occupied 
save by the rude lumbermen, though numerous settlements 
are now springing up, and its agricultura 1 capacities are be- 
ing developed. 

OTTAWA CITY, the Capital of the new Dominion, is 
handsomely built. It was laid out in 1823 by Colonel By, 
whence its original name of Bytown. It is divided into Lower 
Town, Central Town, and Upper Town. On Barrack Hill, in 
many respects a counterpart of the citadel of Quebec, are 
situated the Parliament and departmental buildings. These 
are all in the Italian-Gothic style, and are built of a kind of 
stone found in the vicinity. There is connected with the legis- 
lative halls a library capable of containing 300,000 volumes. 
Among the other principal public edifices may be mentioned 
the Roman Catholic Church, one of the handsomest in Can- 
ada, the Queen's Printing-House, and numerous other 
buildings contributing to the stable appearance of the city. 

Tlie Rideau Falls, near the moulh of the Rideau, 
just below the city of Ottawa, afford some charming scenery 
A mile lower down, the Ottawa receives, from the north, its 



92 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

greatest tributary, the Gatineau, which, with a course proba- 
bly of 420 miles, drains an area of 12,000 square miles. For 
about 200 miles the upper course of this river is in the un- 
known northern country. At the farthest point surveyed, 
217 miles from its mouth, the Gatineau is still a noble stream, 
a thousand feet wide, diminished in depth but not in width. 
Eighteen miles lower down, the Riviere au Lievre enters 
from the north, after running a course of 260 miles in length, 
and draining an area of 4,100 miles. Fifteen miles below it, 
the Ottawa receives the North and South Nation rivers on 
either side, the former 95 and the latter 100 miles in length. 
Twenty-two miles farther, the River Rouge, 90 miles long, 
enters from the north. Twenty-one miles lower, the Riviere 
du Nord, 160 miles in length, comes in on the same side ; 
and, lastly, just above its mouth, it receives the River As- 
sumption, which has a course of 130 miles. From Ottawa 
City, the river is navigable to Grenville, a distance of 58 
miles, where the rapids that occur for 12 miles are avoided 
by a succession of canals. Twenty-three miles lower, at one 
of the mouths of the Ottawa, a single lock, to avoid a slight 
rapid, gives a passage into Lake St. Louis, an expansion of 
the St. Lawrence above Montreal. The remaining half of 
the Ottawa's waters find their way to the St. Lawrence by 
passing in two channels, behind the Island of Montreal and 
the Isle of Jesus, in a course of 31 miles. They are inter- 
rupted with rapids ; still it is by one of them that all the 
Ottawa lumber passes to market. Steamers run daily, du- 
ring the summer months, between Montreal and Ottawa 
City, and Kingstown and Ottawa, via the Rideau Canal. 
Above Ottawa City, the traveller may proceed, by carriage 
or by stage, nine miles, to the village of Aylmer, and thence 
by steamer to the Chats ; thence by railway, two miles ; 



THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 93 

then again by steamer to the Portage du Fort ; now, wagons 
for a while, and then again a steamer to Pembroke, and yet 
another from thence to Deux Joachims ; afterward, he must 
canoe it. The Ottawa may also be reached by railway di- 
rect, from Prescott on the St. Lawrence to Ottawa City. 
The distance from Prescott to Ottawa City is 54 miles, and 
from Montreal 126 miles. 



94 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 



ROUTE IX. 

Up The St. Lawrence. 




HE traveller may go from Montreal to Niagara, as 
already intimated, either by steamer on the St. 
Lawrence, or by the Grand Trunk Railway, 333 
miles to Toronto, on Lake Ontario. At Toronto 
he may cross the western end of the lake to the town of 
Niagara, and thence reach the Falls by the Erie and Ontario 
Railway, 14 miles long ; or he may go less directly by water 
or by rail to Hamilton, and thence by rail to the Falls. 

From Montreal the traveler will proceed 9 miles to La- 
chine, by railway, avoiding the rapids, which the steamers 
from the west descend. The latter is termed " shooting the 
rapids," and it is one of the sensational experiences of the 
trip which can never be adequately described. It is in the 
highest degree creditable to all connected with this branch 
of Canadian river navigation, that no accident of any conse- 
quence has ever happened, nor has a single life been lost in 
this beautiful but dangerous spot. 

" And we have passed the terrible Lachine, 

Have felt a fearless tremor through the soul, 
As the huge waves upreared their crests of green, 
Holding our feathery bark in their control. 
As a strong eagle holds an oriole. 



UP THE ST. LAWRENCE. 95 

The brain grows dizzy with the whirl and the hiss 

Of the fast-crowding billows as they roll, 
Like struggling demons to the vexed abyss, 
Lashing the tortured crags with wild, demoniac bliss." 

Two miles above Lachine, on the Isle Dorval, was for- 
merly the residence of Sir George Simpson, Governor of the 
Hudson's Bay Company, and of the officers of this, the chief 
post of that corporation. It was from this point that the 
orders from headquarters in London were sent to the 
numerous posts throughout the vast territory of the Com- 
pany ; and near the end of April each year a body of trained 
voyageurs set out hence in large canoes, called 7iiaitres cano/s, 
with packages and goods for the various posts in the wilder- 
ness. Two centuries ago, the companions of the explorer 
Cartier, on arriving here, thought they had discovered a 
route to China, and expressed their joy in the exclamation 
of " La Chine !" Hence the present name, or so at least says 
tradition. A costly canal overcomes the obstruction of the 
rapids at Lachine. 

Caugbuawaga, an Iroquois settlement, lies opposite 
Lachine, at the outlet of the expansion of the river called 
Lake St. Louis. The Indians at Caughnawaga subsist 
chiefly by navigating barges and rafts down to Montreal, and 
in winter, by a trade in moccasins, snow-shoes, etc. They 
are mostly Roman Catholics, and possess an elegant church. 

Lake St. Louis. — The brown floods of the Ottawa 
assist in forming this great expanse of the St. Lawrence. 
They roll unmixed through the clearer water of the great 
river. On the northern shore of Lake St. Louis is the island 
of Montreal, 30 miles long. At the western extremity is 
Isle Perrot. The Cascade Rapids separate the expanse just 
passed from Lake St. Francis. The Beauharnois Canal 
here is i\\ miles in length, and has 9 locks. 



96 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Lake St. Francis, into which the voyager now enters, 
extends 40 miles westward. Midway, on the right, is the 
village of Lancaster, where a pile of stones, or cairn, has 
been thrown up in honor of Sir John Colborne, formerly 
Governor-General of Canada, now Lord Seaton. Leaving 
Lake St. Francis, we pass the passage of the celebrated 
Long Sault Rapids. Here, too, is the Cornwall Canal, n£ 
miles in length, with 7 large locks. 

Cornwall is a pleasant town, formerly called " Pointe 
Marine," in memory of the labor of ascending the river at 
this point. 

The Village of St. Regis lies across the river from 
Cornwall. It forms the boundary between Canada and the 
State of New York, and also intersects the tract of land oc- 
cupied by the 1,000 Iroquois, American and British, who 
dwell here. 

Dickenson's Landing lies at the head of the Corn- 
wall Canal. Within the thirty-eight miles vhich follow to 
Prescott, the villages of Moulinette, Mari? Town, and Ma- 
tilda, are successively passed. 

The Battle-Field of Chryseler's Farm, where 
the Americans met a defeat in the war of 1812, lies a little 
»bove Maria Town. 

Prescott is rapidly recovering its prestige, lost when 
the construction of the Rideau Canal attracted its trade to 
Kingston ; for now a railway from New York approaches it 
at Ogdensburg, and another connects it with Ottawa City, 
on the Ottawa River. Besides which advantages, it is on 
the line of the Grand Trunk route. From Prescott may be 
seen the windmill and the ruined hou^os, mementoes of the 
attempt at invasion by Schultz and his band in 1838. 

Ogdeiashurg, New York, the western terminus of the 



UP THE ST. LAWRENCE. 97 

Northern Railway from Lake Champlain, is opposite Pres- 
cott. 

Maitland, built upon the site of an old French fort, is 
seven miles above Prescott. 

ISrocRviSle is yet five miles more, westward. It is one 
of the best-built towns in Canada West. 

GaiiailO$pse is 32 miles above Brockville. At Kings- 
ton, 20 miles ) r et beyond Gananoque, we leave the St. Law- 
rence, and approach the waters of Lake Ontario. In de- 
scending the river, the wonderful laybrinth of The Thousand 
Isles is passed just east of Kingston. Wolfe s Island, a well- 
cultivated spot, is opposite Kingston. 

Kingston. — The city of Kingston, the original capital 
of Canada, modern as it appears, looks far back for its his- 
tory, as its advantageous locale did not fail to attract the no- 
tice of the earl)- French discoverers. It was once occupied 
as a small fort called Cataraqui, otherwise known as Fron- 
tenac, in honor of the French count of that name, and was 
the scene of various sieges and exploits before it passed, 
with all the territory of the Canadas, from French to British 
rule. It was from this point that murderous expeditions 
were made by the Indians, in the olden times, against Albany 
and other English settlements of New York, which in 
turn sent back here its retributive blows. The present city 
was founded in 1783. It has now a population of about 
15,000. 

As a military station, it is only second to Quebec. Among 
its objects of interest are the fortifications of Fort Henry, on 
a hill upon the eastern side of the harbor ; four fine Mar- 
tello Towers off the town, and other defensive works ; the 
University of Queen s College, the Roman Catholic College of 
Regiopolis, and the Provincial Penitentiary l a mile to the west 
7 



98 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

of the city. Kent's, and the British-American, are the prin- 
cipal hotels. 

As the navigation of the St. Lawrence ends at Kingston, 
the river boats are exchanged here for others more suited 
to the lake voyages. 

Lake Ontario — American Shore. — Let us, before we 
enter the great waters of Ontario, say a word to the traveler 
who may prefer to make the voyage along the American or 
lower shore of the lake. 

French Creek, afterward named Fort Covington, in 
memory of General Covington, who fell at the battle of Wil- 
liamsburg (1813), enters the St. Lawrence near this point. 

Oswego is the chief commercial port of the American 
shore of Ontario. It is very agreeably situated at the mouth 
of the Oswego River. The canal and railway from Syracuse 
unite at this point. 

Charlotte, the port of the city of Rochester, is next 
see. at the mouth of the beautiful Genesee River. 

From the mouth of the Genesee to Fort Niagara, a dis- 
tance of 85 miles, the coast presents a monotonous and for- 
est-covered level, with clearings only here and there. 

Having now looked at the American or southern shore, 
we will go back to Kingston, and start again on the upper 
side of the lake, making first for Toronto, 165 miles distant ; 
from Montreal, 333 miles. 

Cofourjjf, with a population of about 5,000, is 70 miles 
from Toronto, and 90 miles from Kingston. It has many 
and varied manufactories, and owing to its comparative 
proximity to Rochester, it ranks only second to Toronto and 
Hamilton in point of general business. A railway from Peter- 
boro' (30 miles distant) comes in here. In the vicinage is 
the Victoria College, founded by act of the Provincial Legisla- 



UP THE ST. LAWRENCE. 90 

ture, in 1842, and attended by 150 students. There is a jail 
here — a strong-, massive, and imposing structure. 

Port Hope is seven miles above Coburg. From this 
point, or from Coburg, the journey to Kingston is often 
charmingly made overland, through a beautiful country at 
the head of the Bay of Quinte, a singular arm of the St. Law- 
rence. 

Toroulo. — Toronto is the largest and most populous 
city in Canada West. Some eighty years ago the site of the 
present busy mart was occupied by two Indian families only. 
In 1793, Governor Simcoe began the settlement under the 
name of York, changed, when it was incorporated, in 1834, 
to Toronto, which in the Indian tongue means " The Place 
of Meeting." Yonge Street is a handsomely-built and busy 
thoroughfare. The population, in 1817, numbered only 
1,200 ; in 1850, it had reached 25,000 ; and now it is upward 
of 70,000. 

Among the public buildings of Toronto, those best worth 
visiting are the Catholic Church of St. Michael, the St. 
James Cathedral (English), the University of Toronto, the 
St. Lawrence Hall and Market, the Parliament House, Os- 
goode Hall, the Post-Office, the Court-House, the Exchange, 
the Mechanics' Institute, Knox's Church, Trinity College, 
Upper Canada College, the Lunatic Asylum, the Jail, and 
the Normal and Model Schools. At Toronto, the traveller 
may, if he pleases, reach Niagara direct, without touching at 
Hamilton as we propose to do in our present journey. 

Hamilton. — The Rossin and Lamb Hotels. Hamilton 
is among the most beautiful and most prosperous cities of 
Canada. Many advantages promise it a bright future. Its 
streets are wide and well-laid out, and its buildings are in 
general elegant, They are built for the most part of white 



100 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

stone, an ample, supply of which is found near the city. 
The city was laid out and settled in 1813, by a person of the 
name of Hamilton. It is situated on Burlington Bay, at the 
head of the western extremity of Lake Ontario ; is connected 
with the eastern capitals of the United States, and with Que- 
bec, Montreal, and Toronto, by the Grand Trunk and the 
Hamilton and Toronto Railways, and with Lake Huron and 
the Mississippi States by the Great Western Railway, which 
traverses the garden lands of Canada ; and, via the Suspen- 
sion Bridge at Niagara, with the whole railway system of 
New York. The Post-Office is on James Street, and the 
principal banks and business houses are situated on that 
street and King Street. The distance from Toronto to Hamil- 
ton, by the steamer, is 45 miles — time, two and a half hours ; 
by railway, 38 miles — time (express), one hour 24 minutes. 
The population of Hamilton, in 1845, was 6,500; at this time 
it exceeds 30,000. 

From Hamilton the Falls of Niagara are readily reached 
by the Great Western Railway via St Catharine's. 

St. Catiiarine's is the chief point of interest on this 
part of our route. Its pleasant topography, and more partic- 
ularly, its mineral springs, make it a place of great summer 
resort. 

If the tourist have time before him, a delightful tour of a 
few weeks may be made in the heat of the summer, among 
the natural wonders of the region west, in visiting Mackinac, 
the Sault Ste. Marie, and other points of interest. The 
shores of Lake Superior have long been extensively ex- 
plored for their abundant copper wealth, and mines have 
been opened at several points, 

Having visited the great Lake Region, the tourist can re- 
turn by steamer, either to Collingwood, Goderich, or Sar- 



UP THE ST. LAWRENCE. 101 

nia, and thence by rail to Toronto, and from the latter city 
by steamer down Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River 
to Montreal, whence he has again the choice of proceeding 
by river or rail to Quebec. 

Quebec. — This is the oldest, and after Montreal, the 
most populous city in British North America. It stands 
upon the left bank of the St. Lawrence River, and about 
350 miles from the ocean. The city was founded in 1608, by 
the geographer Champlain. It fell into the possession of the 
British in 1629, but was restored three years later. The 
English made an unsuccessful attempt to regain possession 
of it in 1690. It was finally captured by Wolfe, in 1759, after 
an heroic defense by Montcalm. 

The city is divided into the Upper and Lower Town, the 
ascent from the latter being by a very steep and winding 
street, through Prescott Gate. The Upper Town occupies 
the highest part of the promontory, which is surrounded by 
strong walls and other fortifications ; while the Lower Town 
is built around the base of Cape Diamond. The latter is the 
business quarter. 

The Citadel, a massive defense crowning the summit of 
Cape Diamond (thus named from the circumstance of quartz 
crystals, sparkling like diamonds, being found in the dark- 
colored slate of which the cape is composed), covers about 
forty acres with its numerous buildings. Its impregnable 
position makes it perhaps the strongest fortress on this con- 
tinent ; hence the name of the " Gibraltar of America," which 
has been given it. The access to the Citadel is from the 
Upper Town, the walls of which are entered by five gates. 
Near the Palace Gate is the Hospital and a large Guard- 
House. By St. Louis Gate, on the southwest, the tourist 
will reach the memorable Plains of Abraham, the scene of 



102 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Wolfe's victory and death in the year 1759. The Prescott 
Gate is the only entrance on the St. Lawrence side of the 
fortress. 

The view from the Citadel is remarkably fine, taking in, as 
it does, the opposite banks of the great river through many 
picturesque miles up and down. The promenade here, on 
the ramparts above the esplanade, is charming. In the 
public garden, on Des Carriere Street, there is an obelisk 
to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm. At the foot of the 
Citadel stands a tower, over which now floats the British flag, 
on the spot where Montgomery and his soldiers all fell, 
swept by the grape-shot of a single gun, manned by a Cana- 
dian artillerist. 

The Parliament House.— Among the chief public edifices 
of Quebec is the new Parliament House, which supplies the 
place of the building destroyed by fire in 1854. It is now 
used as barracks, the Parliament building being at Ottawa 
City. 

The Roman Catholic Cathedral was erected under the au- 
spices of the first Bishop of Quebec and was consecrated in 
1666. It is 216 feet long and 180 feet in breadth. There is 
in the Lower Town a chapel noticeable for its antiquity it ; 
was built and used as a church before 1690. It is called 
Notre Dame des Victoires. 

The Ursuline Convent and the Church of Ursula are 
striking buildings, encompassed by pleasant gardens. This 
establishment was founded in 1639, and "holds a high posi- 
tion in the public esteem. The building was destroyed 
by fire in 1650, and again in 1686. The remains of the 
Marquis de Montcalm are buried here in an excavation 
made by the bursting of a shell within the precincts of the 
convent. 



DOWN THE ST. LAWRENCE. 103 

The Artillery Barracks form a range of stone buildings 
5,000 feet in length. 

Durham Terrace occupies the site of the old Castle of St. 
Louis, which was entirely consumed by fire in 1834. 

The English Protestant Cathedral, consecrated in 1804, is 
one of the finest modern edifices of the city. Tradition 
points to the site as the spot upon which Champlain erected 
his first tent. 

/;/ the Lower Town the traveler will find the Exchange, the 
Post-Office, the banks, and other commercial establishments. 

The Plains of Abraham may be reached via the St. 
Louis Gate and the counterscarp on the left, leading to the 
Glacis of the citadel ; thence toward the right, approaching 
one of the Martello Towers, where a fine view of the St. 
Lawrence opens. A little beyond, up the right bank, is the 
spot where General Wolfe fell, on the famous historic 
ground of the Plains of Abraham. It is the highest ground, 
and is surrounded by a wooden fence. Here stands the St. 
Foye Monument, erected to the memory of Wolfe and Mont- 
calm. It is of bronzed metal, standing on a stone base, and 
surmounted by a bronze statue of Bellona. On the pedes- 
tal are simple and appropriate inscriptions. Within an en- 
closure lower dowm is a stone well, from which water was 
brought to the dying hero. 

Wolfe's Cove, the spot where Montgomery was killed, 
and other scenes telling tales of the memorable past, will be 
pointed out to the traveller in this neighborhood. 

Tlie Mount Herinon Cemetery is about 3 miles 
from the city, on the south side of the St. Louis road. The 
grounds are 32 acres in extent, sloping irregularly but beau- 
tifully down the precipices which overhang the St. Lawrence. 
They were laid out by the late Major Douglas, of the United 



104 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

States Engineers, who had previously displayed his skill and 
taste in the arrangements of the Greenwood Cemetery, near 
New York. 

SjOrette. — To see the Indian village of Lorette may be 
made the object of an agreeable excursion from Quebec, 
following the banks of the St. Charles River. 

Lake St. Cliarle§is fourmiles long and one broad. It 
is divided by projecting ledges into two parts, and abounds 
with fish. 

The Falls of Montmorenci afford one of the 
most delightful excursions in the neighborhood of Quebec. 
They are nine miles below the city. The foam rising from 
the foot of the falls becomes frozen in winter, and the ice 
accumulating, layer upon layer, forms two cones, one of 
which not unfrequently attains the height of ioo feet, offering 
to those who are courageous enough to ascend to its apex, 
a full front view of the edge of the precipice, and the still sur- 
face of the Montmorenci River sleeping in its icy bed. The 
second cone is much used for " toboggining." Experts in 
this exclusively Canadian amusement climb to the top of the 
cone, and then, perching themselves on their " toboggins" 
(a sort of light Indian sleigh), dash down the glassy slope 
with a velocity which, increasing every instant, occasionally 
carries the hardy tobogginers a full half-mile from the pinna- 
cle whence they started. Before quitting the picturesque 
banks of the Montmorenci, the tourist should by all means 
visit the Natural Steps, 2 miles above the cataract. The lime- 
stone rock bordering the river is there formed for half a mile 
into a succession of steps, each about a foot in depth, as reg- 
ularly arranged as if they had been hewn out by human 
hands. The " Mansion House," in which the Duke of Kent 



DOWN THE ST. LAWRENCE. 105 

passed the summer of 1791, stands at a short distance from 
the falls. 

The Fall§ of St. Anne, in the river St. Anne, 24 
n iles below Quebec, are in the neighborhood of great pic- 
ti re jque beauty. Starting from the city in the morning be- 
times, one may visit Montmorenci, and proceed thence with 
ease the same evening to St. Anne. Next morning, after a 
leisurely survey of these cascades, there will be most of the 
day left to get back, with any detours that may seem desirable, 
to Quebec. 

The Fall§ of the Chaudiere are reached by rail 
after crossing the river via Point Levi. The rapid river 
plunges over a precipice of 130 feet, presenting very much 
the look of boiling water, whence its name of chaudiere, or 
caldron. The cataract is broken into three separate parts by 
the intervention of huge projecting rocks ; but it is reunited 
before it reaches the basin beneath. 

More immediately in the vicinity of Quebec there are sev- 
eral pleasant drives, viz., Spencer Wood, the Governor-Gener- 
al's residence, and to Chateau-£i A ot, an antique and massive 
ruin, standing in solitary loneliness, at the foot of the 
Charlesbourg Mountain. 

When in Quebec, the tourist should by all means take a 
run down to the Saguenay River, which magnificent trip can 
be performed by taking the railway at Point Levi for Riviere 
du Loup, and there crossing by steamer ; or, during the sum- 
mer months, he can take the steamer from Quebec direct to 
the Saguenay. 

The Saguenay is the largest tributary of the St. Law- 
rence, and unquestionably one of the most remarkable rivers 
on the continent. Its head-water is Lake St. John, 40 miles 
long, which, although n large rivers fall into it, has no other 



106 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

outlet than the Saguenay. The original name of this river 
was Chicoutimi, an Indian word signifying deep water ; and 
its present one is said to be a corruption of St. Jeans Nez. 
The first place of interest to point out to the traveller is 

Tadouseac, lying a short distance above Pointe aux 
Vaches, 140 miles from Quebec. Tadoussac, apart from its 
pleasant stuation as a watering-place, is interesting from the 
circumstance of having been the spot on which stood the 
first stone-and-mortar building ever erected on the continent 
of America. The scenery here is wild and romantic in the 
extreme ; and the waters all around abound in excellent 
salmon and trout. Just in the rear of Tadoussac, and at the 
Bergeronnes, and on the opposite side of the Saguenay 
among the Canard Lakes, and at the Little Saguenay, St. 
John, Grand Bay, and Chicoutimi, Kenogami, and other 
lakes, trout are to be caught in great abundance. Seal-hunt- 
ing is also a favorite sport for those who resort to these 
shores : several varieties of the animal are here met with in 
abundance. 

The journey up the Saguenay may be made semi-weekly, 
by steamer from Quebec, or by the Grand Trunk Railway, 
101 miles to St. Paschal, Riviere du Loup, opposite 
the mouth of the Saguenay, and thence by steamer. The 
course of the Saguenay — between lofty and precipitous 
hights, and, in its upper part, amid rushing cataracts — is 
126 miles long from Lake St. John to the St. Lawrence, 
which it enters 140 miles below Quebec. Large ships as- 
cend 60 miles. In the trip thence from Quebec, there are 
many interesting points to be noticed in the preceding jour- 
ney of 120 miles down the St. Lawrence — the ancient-look- 
ing settlements on its banks, and the not less picturesque 
habitans of the country. A day's sail lands the voyager at 



DOWN THE ST. LAWRENCE. 107 

Riviere du Loup, where he passes the night on board his 
steamer, waiting for the following morning to resume his 
journey. The Saguenay is a perfectly straight river, with 
grand precipices on either side. It has neither windings 
nor projecting bluffs, nor sloping banks, nor winding shores, 
like other rivers ; nor is its stern, strange aspect varied by 
either village or villa. " It is as if the mountain range had 
been cleft asunder, leaving a horrid gulf 60 miles in length 
and 4,000 feet in depth, through the gray mica schist, and 
still looking fresh and new. One thousand five hundred 
feet of this is perpendicular cliff, often too steep and solid 
for the hemlock or dwarf-oak to find root ; in which case, 
being covered with colored lichens and moss, their fresh- 
looking fractures often appear, in shape and color, like 
painted fans, and are called the pictured rocks. But those 
parts more slanting are thickly covered with stunted trees, 
spruce and maple and birch growing wherever they can find 
crevices to extraot nourishment ; and the bare roots of the 
oak, grasping the rock, have a resemblance to gigantic claws. 
The bases of these cliffs lie far under the water, to an un- 
known depth. For many miles from its mouth no soundings 
have been obtained with 2,000 feet of line ; and for the en- 
tire distance of 60 miles, until you reach Ha-ha Bay, the 
largest ships can sail, without obstructions from banks or 
shoals, and, on reaching the extremity of the bay, can drop 
their anchors in 30 fathoms. The view up this river is singu- 
lar in many respects ; hour after hour as you sail along, 
precipice after precipice unfolds itself to view, as a moving 
panorama ; and you sometimes forget the size and hight of 
the objects you are contemplating, until reminded by see- 
ing a ship of 1,000 tons lying like a small pinnace under the 
towering cliff to which she is moored ; for even in these re- 



108 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

mote and desolate regions, industry is at work, and, al- 
though you cannot clearly discern them, saw-mills have been 
built on some of the tributary streams which fall into the 
Saguenay. But what strikes one most is the absence of 
beach or strand, except in a few places where mountain tor- 
rents come rushing through the gloomy ravines, have washed 
down the detritus of the hills, and formed some alluvial land 
at the mouth ; no coves nor creeks, nor projecting rocks are 
seen in which a boat could find shelter, or any footing be ob- 
tained. The water is black as ink and cold as ice. No 
ducks nor sea-gulls sitting on the water, or screaming for 
their prey. No hawks nor eagles soaring overhead, al- 
though there is an abundance of what might be called ' eagle 
cliffs.' No deer coming down to drink at the streams ; no 
squirrels nor birds to be seen among the trees. No fly on 
the water, nor swallows skimming over the surface. It re- 
minds you of 

1 That lake whose gloomy shore 
Skylark ne'er warbled o'er.' 

Two living things you may see, but these are cold-blooded 
animals ; you may see the cold seal, spreading himself upon 
his clammy rock, watching for his prey. You may see him 
make his sullen plunge into the water, like to the Styx for 
blackness. You may see him emerge again, shaking his 
smooth, oily sides, and holding a huge living salmon writh- 
ing in his teeth ; and you may envy the fellow faring so 
sumptuously, until you recollect that you have just had a 
hearty breakfast of fresh-grilled salmon yourself, and that 
you enjoyed it as much as the seal is now enjoying his raw 
morsel. And this is all you see for the first twenty miles, 
save the ancient settlement of Tadoussac at the entrance, 
and the pretty cove of L ' An?e a VEau, which is a fishing 



DOWN THE ST. LAWRENCE. 109 

station. Now you reach Cape Eternity, Cape Trinity, and 
many other overhanging cliffs, remarkable for having such 
clean fractures, seldom equalled for boldness and effect, 
which create constant apprehensions of danger, even in a 
calm ; but if you happen to be caught in a thunder-storm, 
the roar, and darkness, and flashes of lightning, are perfectly 
frightful. At last ) r ou terminate your voyage at Ila-ha Bay 
— that is, Smiling or Laughing Bay, in the Indian tongue — 
for you are perfectly charmed and relieved to arrive at a 
beautiful spot, where you have sloping banks, a pebbly 
shore, boats and wherries, and vessels riding at anchor ; 
birds and animals, a village, a church, French Canadians, 
and Scottish Highlanders." After duly enjoying the pleas- 
ant " let down" from the high tragic tone of the landscape 
you have been so long gazing upon and wondering at, formed 
in the comparatively pastoral character of this upper region 
of the Ottawa, you return to your steamer, and, descending 
the stern and solemn river, come again, at nightfall, to the 
Riviere du Loup, from whence you started in the morning. 
This is the second day of your journey, and on the third you 
are back once more in Quebec. 

After leaving these delightful scenes, and returning to 
Quebec, those who choose so to do, can set out for home 
either by rail, via Richmond, Portland, Boston, and New 
York ; or via Richmond, by rail to Sherbrooke, thence by 
coaches to Magog, connecting with steamer for Newport 
(See Lake Memphremagog); thence by P assumpsit Railway 
to White and Franconia Mountains, Boston, or New York. 

But some may prefer still to make the delightful and in- 
vigorating trip down the Gulf to New Brunswick und Nova 
Scotia, visiting numberless other points of interest on the 
way, and returning homeward by the International Steamshi* 



HO THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Line to Portland or Boston, and thence by rail or steamer to 
New York. The best plan is to take either the steamers to 
Perce, and coast along as opportunity offers, or take passage 
on one of the Gulf steamers for Gaspe, Shediac, and Pictou. 



NEWPORT AND VICINITY. m 



ROUTE X. 

Newport and Vicinity. 




F Newport were not, as it is, the most elegant and 
fashionable of all American watering-places, its 
topographical beauties, its ancient commercial im- 
portance, and its many interesting historical asso- 
ciations, would yet claim for it distinguished mention in these 
pages. The approach seaward is charming. Coming in 
from the sea round Point Judith, a few miles brings the 
traveler into the waters of the Narraganset Bay, where he 
passes between Fort Wolcott, on Goat Island, and the strong- 
hold of Fort Adams, upon Brenton Point on the right, and 
enters the harbor of the ancient town, once among the com- 
mercial capitals of the Union. 

As late as 1769, Newport exceeded New York in the ex- 
tent of her foreign and domestic commerce. During the 
Revolution, the British long held possession of the place, 
during which time, and at their departure (1779) it became 
almost desolate. Before leaving, they destroyed 4S0 build- 
ings, burned the light-house, cut down all the ornamental 
and fruit trees, broke up the wharves, used the churches for 
riding-schools, and the State House for a hospital, and car- 
ried off the church bells ».nd the town records to New York — 



112 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

disasters which reduced the population from 12,000 to 4,000. 
But the incidents of this period have left some pleasant 
memories for the present day, and remembrances of the 
fame of Commodore Perry, the gallant commander on Lake 
Erie, who was born in Narraganset, across the bay, and 
whose remains now lie in Newport ; of the residej.ce of 
Rochambeau, and other brave officers of the French fleet, 
and of the visits of General Washington, and the fetes given 
in his honor ; the venerable buildings associated with all 
these incidents being still to be seen. Newport was settled 
in 1637, and incorporated in 1700. 

Pocasset or Portsmouth, at the northern extremity of the 
island, had been settled the year previous. The old town 
lies near the water ; but of late years, since the place has 
become popular as a summer residence, a new city of charm- 
ing villas and sumptuous mansions has sprung up, extending 
far along upon the terraces which overlook the sea. Of the 
old buildings, and of those which belong to Newport per se, 
instead of in its character of a watering-place, are the ancient 
State House, the Redwood Library and Athenman, the Old 
Stone Mill, said to have been the property of Governor 
Benedict Arnold, built in 1726 ; Tammany Hall Institute, 
Trinity Churchy Vernon Family Mansion, the Perry Monu- 
ment, Commodore Perry s House, built in 1763, and long known 
.as the "Granary;" the fortifications in the harbor, Fort 
Adams, Fort Wolcott, Fort Brown, and the Dumplings. Fort 
Adams, on Brenton's Point, is one of the largest works in 
the United States. It mounts four hundred and sixty guns. 
To visitors, however, the chief attractions of the town and 
its immediate vicinity are the fine ocean beaches, known as 
Easton's, Sachuest's, and Smith's, or the First, the Second 
and the Third Beach. It is the First which is chiefly used 



NEWPORT AND VICINITY. H3 

as a bathing-ground by the Newport guests. It is half a 
mile from the Ocean and Fillmore Houses. Stages run dur- 
ing bathing hours. At the Second Beach are the famous 
rocks called Purgatory and the Hanging Rocks, within whose 
shadow it is said that Bishop Berkeley wrote his " Minute 
Philosopher." 

The chasm called Purgatory measures 160 feet in length, 
is 50 feet in depth, and from 8 to 14 feet wide at the top, and 
has an average breadth at the bottom of about 12 feet. 

The drives about Newport are excellent. In this respect 
its advantages over Saratoga and Long Branch are very 
marked. 

The new drive laid out in 1867 is much frequented. It 
commences at Belleview Avenue, near the Ocean House, is 
80 feet wide, and macadamized throughout its entire length 
of ten miles. It affords an unobstructed view of the ocean, 
nearly its entire length, and is generally allowed to be one of 
the finest roads in the country. 

The Glen and the Spouting Cave are charming places to 
ride to, when the weather invites. Lily Pond, the largest 
sheet of spring water on the island, is easily reached from 
Spouting Cave. 

" Bright and queen-like the array 
Of lilies in their crystal bed; 
Like chalices for Beauty's lip, 

Their snowy cones half open lie, 
The dew-drops of the morn to sip, 
But closed to day's obtrusive eye." 

The waters of this pond swarm with perch. 

Newport was the birth-place of the gifted miniature painter 
Malbone, and Gilbert Stuart's place of nativity may be seen 
in Narraganset, across the bay. Stuart made two copies of 
his great Washington picture for Rhode Island, one of which 
may be seen in the State House at Newport, and the other in 
8 



114 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

that at Providence. Among the interesting relics to be 
found in the town are : Franklin's printing-press, imported by 
James Franklin, in 1720. It is in the office of the Newport 
Mercury, established in 1758. Upon this press the first news- 
paper, issued 173.2, was printed. The Chair of State, in 
which Benedict Arnold sat at the reception of the charter in 
1663, is in the possession of the Gould family. The First 
Baptist Church, founded in 1638, and claimed as the oldest 
< hurch in Rhode Island, is worthy a visit. The bell in the 
tower weighs half a ton. The American Steamboat Com- 
pany's steamers, " Bay Queen," Captain Allen, and " City 
of Newport," Captain Kelley, make excursions daily (Sun- 
days excepted) between Providence, Rocky Point, and New- 
port. Fares, 50 cents and 75 cents. 

The distance to Providence is 30 miles ; to Fall River, 18 ; 
Point Judith, 15 ; and Block Island, 30 miles. 

Rocky Point and Marked Rock are favorite resorts for ex- 
cursionists. There is a good hotel at the Point, from the ob- 
servatory of which a fine view is obtained. Warren and 
Bristol, across the bay, are interesting places, easily reached 
from Newport or Providence. Just below the latter place is 
Mount Hope, the famous home of the renowned King Philip^ 
the last of the Wampanoags. From the summit of this 
picturesque hight a charming panorama of the Rhode Isl- 
and waters is to be had. 

Vewport is possessed of several very excellent hotels. 
The Ocean House ,on Touro Street and Belleview Avenue, is 
the most fashionable and most delightfully situated ; the 
Atlantic, at the corner of Pelham and Touro streets, opposite 
Touro Park, is an admirably appointed house ; the Fillmore, 
the Aquidneck, Pelham Street House, Perry Housefand United 
States, are also favorite stopping-places. One daily newspa- 



NEWPORT AND VICINITY. H5 

per {Nevjs), and the Mercury, the oldest weekly newspaper 
but. one in the United States, are published in Newport. 
Excellent photographic views of the town and objects of in- 
terest may be had of Mr. J. Appleby Williams. His gallery 
is on Lower Touro Street, in the vicinity of the Ocean House. 



116 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 



ROUTE XI. 

Long Branch and Surroundings. 




MONG the more modern fashionable watering- 
places of America, Long Branch deservedly oc- 
cupies a prominent position. Its special recom- 
mendations are its proximity to New York and 
Philadelphia, its easy and pleasant access, and the invigor- 
ating influences of its ocean breezes, combined with its 
bathing privileges. The hotel accommodation of the place, 
which as late as 1861 was almost wholly monopolized by 
the Mansion, Howland, and United States, has now been so 
greatly extended as to embrace seven large first-class hotels, 
and as many more of smaller dimensions, but scarcely less 
liberal fare and appointments, well adapted to the tastes and 
wants of private families. Stetson s, at the south end of the 
main avenue or drive, has few equals as a watering-place 
hotel in the country. During the hight of the season it is 
thronged with the beauty and fashion of the metropolis. 
A band of music nightly. 

Habitues of " The Branch " are accustomed to designate 
its several divisions as " The Shore." " The Lower Pole," 
and " The Pole." The first is applied to the sea-shore, 
which is overlooked by the long line of hotels and summer 



LONG BRANCH AND SURROUNDINGS. H7 

residences. Here, at the proper bathing hour, a white flag 
is raised. This is the signal for the gathering of the groups 
of bathers clad in their parti-colored costumes. The scene 
at such times — usually about noon — is gay and animated. 

The " Pole " stands about a couple of miles from the shore, 
where two roads intersect the main street of the village. 
This indicates the village of Long Branch, founded by the 
fishermen of the coast, whose small tenements here find 
protection from the wintry blasts to which houses on or near 
the beach are exposed. 

The " Lower Pole " points out a collection of houses 
about half a mile from the shore. These are occupied by 
their proprietors and others interested in the hotels and other 
business establishments of the shore, who are thus conveni- 
ently near, to look after their interests during the long, dull 
winter season, and prepare for the opening which usually 
takes place on the istto the 15th of June. 

There is admirable sport in the vicinity of the Branch for 
the angler. The Shrewsbury River, on the one side, and the 
ocean on the other, swarm with all the delicate varieties of 
fish with which our markets abound. 

Shrewsbury, Red Bank, and Tinton Falls, in the vicinity 
of the Branch, are also places much resorted to. 

Pleasure Bay, Oceanville (Mineral Springs), Eatontowtu 
Newman Springs, Deal and Shark rivers also afford pleasant 
drives and excursions for parties from the Branch. Hatha- 
way 's and Abner Aliens hotels, at Deal, have ample accom- 
modation for 500 guests. Shark River is the favorite resort 
of crabbing and boating parties. Pleasure Bay, on the 
Shrewsbury River, offers great variety of aquatic sport. 
Crabs and every variety of shell-fish are served here in ex- 
cellent style. The New York Hotel is the leading house 



118 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

for visitors. The fine grounds of Mr. John Hoey are on 
Cedar Avenue, a short drive beyond Stetson's Hotel. 

After Stetson's, the principal hotels at Long Branch are 
the Metropolitan, Mansion House, Continental, Holland's, 
Clarendon, Cooper Cottage (Laird 's), United States, and Atlantic. 
The Dunbarton (Mrs. Down's), is near Oceanport Station, four 
miles from the Ocean Beach. 

A favorite route to Long Branch is by the Seaside Railway. 
Steamer "William Cook," from foot of Barclay Street, 
twice daily during the season. Time to the Branch, one 
hour and a half. 



CAPE MAY. 119 



ROUTE XII. 
Cape May. 




j|APE MAY is to Philadelphians, what Long Branch 
is to New Yorkers. Few among the summer sea- 
side resorts enjoy a wider celebrity than this. Of 
late years, since railway communications have 
rendered it easily accessible, the number of visitors has 
largely increased. Cape May is at the extreme southern 
point of New Jersey, where the floods of the Delaware are 
lost in the greater floods of the Atlantic. The beach for 
bathing or driving is one of the best on the Atlantic coast. 
The little village of the Cape (Cape Island), occupies an 
area of nearly 300 acres, and has a resident population of 
about 1,200. During the summer season this number is 
usually swelled to several thousand. They come chiefly 
from Philadelphia, Baltimore, and the South ; of late years, 
large numbers from St. Louis, Cincinnati, and Chicago, have 
resorted thither. 

It is reached from Philadelphia, by the West Jersey Rail- 
way via Camden and Glassboro', and thence by the Cape May 
and Millville Railway, in about three hours and a half. Dis- 
tance 80 miles. The southern part of New Jersey being very 
flat, and the scenery uninteresting, the route has few attractions 



120 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

for the tourist; but the advantages of Cape May itself, for 
sea-bathing, are sufficiently great to compensate for all minor 
drawbacks. The beach is one of the finest on the coast, and 
the hotels are numerous, commodious, and well-kept. They 
open usually on the ist of June, and by the beginning or 
middle of July are generally full. The beach, nearly five 
miles in length, is hard and smooth, and affords a splendid 
drive. A tandem or four-in-hand drive over the Cape May 
beach, on a fine bright day, at the hight of the season, in full 
view of the ocean, is one of the most enjoyable things the 
Guide has to offer. The distance from the railway depot is 
trifling, and the hotel omnibuses carry passengers free of 
charge. 

The leading hotel is Congress Hall, under the proprietor- 
ship of J. H. Cake & Co. This fine house has been lately 
extended and improved. It now embraces the former 
grounds, with the addition of the Ocean House grounds, 
giving a sea frontage of 1,200 feet, and accommodation for 
1,200 guests. The Columbia is now under the management 
of Mr. George J. Bolton, of the Bolton House, Harrisburg^ 
and is strictly a first-class house, with fine conveniences for 
bathing. The United States is also a well-kept and popular 
house. A new hotel on the site of the old Mount Vernon 
Hotel, at the north end of Cape Island, is in contemplation. 

The other prominent public houses are the Atlantic, Centre, 
and Delaware. Besides the above, there are seven other 
houses, the whole having accommodation for nearly 5,000 
guests. The price per day at the leading hotels is $4.00, or 
$25.00 per week. 

Cold Spring, two miles north of the beach, on the line of 
the railroad, affords a pleasant drive and picnic place. No- 
hotel accommodation yet at this Spring. 



POPULAR SUMMER RESORTS. 121 



POPULAR SUMMER RESORTS. 



Atlantic City. — Atlantic City, 61 miles from Philadel- 
phia, and 133 from New York, may be reached from the 
former city twice daily, by the Camden and Atlantic Railroad. 
It has fine accommodation for bathing, and is a place much 
resorted to by visitors from Philadelphia and New York. 
Hotels : the United States, Surf House. 

Avon Springs (Sulphur and Salt), 20 miles from 
Rochester, and 395 from New York, via Hudson River and 
Central Railway. Knickerbocker Hall. 

Bath, L. I. — By dummy cars from Brooklyn, via Green- 
wood. Sea-bathing, boating, fishing, etc. Bath Hotel. 

Bedford Springs, Pa., on the Ruystown branch of 
the Juniata. — Route, via Huntingdon, on the Pennsylvania 
Central Railroad, to Mount Dallas, and thence 6 miles by 
stage. 

Bergen Point, N. J. — By New Jersey Central R. R., 
or boats from Barclay and Liberty streets. La Towette 
House. 

Birch Bale Springs, near Concord, N. H. From 
Boston, by Concord, Manchester, and Lawrence R. R. 



122 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Budd's Lake, 2 miles from Stanhope, and 54 from 
New York City, via Morris and Essex Railway. Fine fishing. 
Sharp's Forest House. 

Chittenango White Sulphur Springs- Madison 
County, N. Y. 

Coney Island, belonging to the town of Gravesend, is 
five miles long, and one broad, and is situated about 12 miles 
from New York. It has a fine beach fronting the Ocean, and 
is much frequented by New Yorkers. On the north side of 
the island are two hotels, the " Pavilion" and the " Tivoli," 
where excellent clam-bakes and chowders are served. 
There are other hotels and boarding-houses up the beach. 
Steamer Naushon, from foot of Christopher and Morris 
streets, or steam-cars from Brooklyn, via Greenwood and 
New Utrecht. 

CooperstOWIl, N. Y., in the vicinity of Sharon Springs 
and Otsego Lake. Carrs Hotel. 

Croton Lake, in Putnam County, three miles west of 
Mount Kisco. Harlem Railway to Mt. Kisco, 37 miles. 

Delaware Water Gap, Kittatinny Mountains. 
Central Railway, of New Jersey and Delaware, Lackawanna 
and Western R. R. Kittatinny House, Greenwood House. 

Genesee Falls, 375 miles from New York City to 
Rochester. Hotels : Osborne and Congress. 

Gettysburg, Pa.— Springs, Battle-Field, and National 
Cemetery. Cumberland Valley R. R. 

Greenwood Lake, 10 miles from Monroe, on the 



POPULAR SUMMER RESORTS. 123 

Erie Railway. Good fishing and fine scenery. Windermere 
House. 

I§lip, L. I. — Pleasantly situated on Great South Bay, 
43 miles from New York. Route via South Side R. R. 
Hotels : Pavilion, Lake House. 

Keyporl, N. J. — Good bathing and fisning. Pavilion. 

Lake Mahopae, Putnam County, 14 miles from 
Peekskill. Good fishing. Harlem Railway. Baldwin House. 

Lake MeinphremagOg, Me., 229 miles from Spring- 
field, Mass. Fine scenery and excellent fishing. The lake 
is 30 miles long. Steamer up and down daily. Memphrema- 
gog House. Mountain House. 

Lake Winnipisaukee, N. H. (See White Mount- 
ains.) — Good fishing and magnificent scenery. Saco Valley 
Route. Hotel at Weir's Bridge. 

Lebanon Springs, N. Y. {See Hudson River 
Route.) Columbia Hall. 

Mississiquoi Springs, Vt., 10 miles from St. Albans 
( Weldon House), by Rutland and Burlington R. R., and stages 
10 miles to Sheldon ( Wright's Hotel). 

Nahailt, 12 miles from Boston. Steamer daily. Fine 
beach and bathing ; one large hotel. 

New Brighton, S. I.— Boat from foot of Dey Street, 
every hour. Pavilion Hotel. 

New Rochelle.— Pleasantly situated on the Sound 
18 miles from New York, via New Haven Railway. Neptune 
House. 



124 THE TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Plainfield, N. J., 24 miles from New York, via Jersey 
Central R. R. Pleasant drives, etc. Washington Rock Hotel. 

Port Washington, N. J. — Pleasantly situated on the 
Shrewsbury River. Bathing, boating and fishing. Steamer 
Sea Bird, from foot of Warren Street. Sigier's Hotel. 

Richfield Spring's. — Richfield Springs are in the 
town of Richfield, Otsego County, southeast of Utica, near 
the head of Canaderaga, one of the numerous lakes of this 
part of New York. Hotel : Spring House. Otsego Lake is 
six miles distant, and another six miles will take the traveler 
to Cooperstown. Cherry Valley, Springfield, and other vil- 
lages are near by. 

Route from New York and Albany, via Central Railway to 
Herkimer, 81 miles, and thence by stage. 

Red Bank. — See Long Branch, &c. 

Rye, N. H., distant 7 miles from Portsmouth. Fine 
beaches and bathing. Hotels : Ocean, Atlantic, and Farragut. 
Route by Eastern Railway from Boston to Hampton, Green- 
land, or Portsmouth, and thence by stage. 

Schooley's Mountain, 62 miles to Hackettstown, by 
Morris and Essex R. R., and thence i\ miles by stage. Bel- 
mont Hall, Heath House. 

Seneca Lake and Falls, 40 miles west of Syracuse. 
Lake 40 miles long and 2 to 4 wide. It is very deep, and never 
freezes over. Steamboats run between Jefferson, at the 
south end of the lake, and Geneva, at the north end. Route 
by Erie Railway to Elmira, and thence by Northern Central 
(Pa.) to Watkins, at the head of the lake. Hotels : Jefferson 
and Fall- Brook. 



POPl'LAR SUMMER RESORTS. I Q5 

Sharon Springs.— Hotels : The Pavilion is a large 
and well-appointed establishment. The Eldridge is also a 

good house. 

Route.— From Albany, by the Central Railroad, as far as 
Palatine Bridge, 55 miles ; thence by stage, 10 miles, over a 
plank road. 

Stamford, Conn., 37 miles from New York, via New 
Haven R. R. Good boating and fishing. Steamer from 
Fulton Market Slip, 3 P. M., daily. 

Trenton Falls, New York, on West Canada branch 
of Mohawk River, 17 miles from Utica (N. Y. < entral Rail- 
way). River falls 312 feet in two miles. 

Yalloilia Springs, Broome Co., N.Y.— From Albany, 
via Susquehanna R.R., 1 14 miles to Afton, and thence by 
stage. Spring House. 

White Sulphur Springs, Greenbrier Co., W. Vir- 
ginia, via Chesapeake and Ohio R. R. Peytons Sf Co. 

Willoughby L,ake, Northern Vermont, 30 miles 
from Canada line and 350110m New York. Lake is five 
miles long and one to two miles wide. Fine views of the 
White Mountains. Distance to Island Pond, on the Grand 
Trunk R. R., 20 miles. 

Wyoming Valley, Pa.— Route by New Jersey Cen- 
tral R. R. to Hampton Junction, 59 miles ; thence by Del., 
Lack., and Western R. R., to Scranton, 83 miles ; and thence 
by Lackawanna and Bloomsbury R. R.. 1 7 miles to Kingston, 
opposite Wilkesbarre. Wyoming Valley Hotel. 



ROUTE I.— Hudson River Railway, 



New York to Albany and Troy. 



STATIONS. 



Mis 



LEAVE 

New York o 

:30th street 3 

Manhattan 8 

152d street 9 

Fort Washington 10 

Spuyten Duyvel 13 

Riverdale 14 

Mount St. Vincent 15 

Yonkers 17 

Glenwood 18 

Hastings 21 

Dobbs" Ferry 22 

Irvington * 24 

Tarrytown 2 27 

Scarhorough 31 

Sing Sing 32 

Croton 36 

Cruger's 37 

Montrose 41 

Peekskill 43 

Fort Montgomery — 47 

Garrison's^ 51 

Cold Spring 54 

Cornwall Station 56 

Fishkill 4 60 

Low Point 64 

New Hamburg 66 

Milton Ferry 71 

Poughkeepsie . . 75 

HydePark 80 

Staatsburg 85 

Rhinebeck 90 

Barrytown 96 

Tivoli 100 

Germantown 105 

Catskill Station | 111 



Pass. Exp. Exp. Pas? 



A. M. 

6 45 



A. M. 

8 00 



2d 

23 

30 

36 

42 

50 

57 
8 04 
8 12 
8 19 
8 24 
8 33 
8 42 

8 53 

9 00 
9 06 
9 14 
9 20 
9 28 
9 38 

11 00 10 33 
11 14 
11 25 
11 37 

11 51 

12 04 
12 18 
12 32 



9 21 

9 39 



9 56 



11 02 
11 24 



A. M. P. M. 

10 45 2 30 



11 19 

11 41 

11 54 

12 17 

12 35 
12 42 

12 55 

1 08| 

1 35' 
1 48 

1 58 

2 10 
2 23 
2 35 



3 04 

3 07 

3 14 

3 20 

3 26 

3 34 

3 42 

3 48 

3 55 

02 

07 

18 

26 

38 

45 

51 

00 

t)7 



Exp. Exp 



P. M. 

4 00 



Pass- 



P. M. 

* 

6 30 



P. M. 

11 00 



12 10 
12 28 
12 47 



5 23 8 06 

5 41 
5 48 



8 26 



6 02 8 47 



11 45i 2 58 



5 15 
5 25 
5 45 

5 59 

6 10 
6 22 
6 35; 

6 47 

7 00 

7 12! 



6 16 



9 27 



6 45 

6 59 

7 10 

7 22 10 03 
7 35 

7 47 

8 00 

8 is! 



1 22 



2 13 



3 05 



3 53 

4 27 



X3T Trains marked thus (*) run daily. Other trains, Sundays excepted. 
1. Ferry to Piermont (terminus of Piermont Br. of Erie Railway). 
8. Ferry to Nyack. 3. Ferry to West Point. 

4. Ferry to Newburg (terminus of Newburg Br. Erie Railway). 



LOCAL TRAINS, STOPPING AT WAY STATIONS. 

Yonkers.— Leave 30th 8tr eet for Yonkers at 6.30, 7.10, 9.00, 9.40 & 11.50 a.m., and 

2 00, 4.25, 5.10, 7.10 & 11.30 p.m. Leave Yonkers for New York at 6.00, 7.50, 8.20 & 

10.00 a.m., and 12.30, 2.40, 3.20, 5.50, 6.40 & 9.00 p.m. 
Sing Sing.— Leave New York for Sing Sing at 5.30 & 6.00 p.m. Leave Sing Sing 

for New York at 6.20 & 7.55 a.m. 
PeekSklll.— Leave New York for Peekskill at 10.00 a.m., and 4.15 & 7.00 p.m. Leave 

Peekskill for New York at 6.35 and 8.20 a.m., and 12.30 P. m. 
POUghkeepSie. — Leave New York for Poughkeepsie at 12.00 noon, and 5.00 p.m. 

Leave Poughkeepsie for New York at — a.m. 



Hudson Hiver Railway (Continued), 



STATIONS. 



LEAVE 

Hudson" 

Stock] ort 

Coxsackie Station.. . . 

Stuyvesant 

Schodack 

Castleton 

East Albany 

Albany" 

Troy < 

ARRIVE 



Mis 


Pas. 


Exp. 


A.M. 


A.M. 


115 


12 45 


11 56 


119 


12 57 




123 


; 1 06 




125 


1 14 




132 


1 29 




135 


: 1 40 




114 


2 00 


12 50 




2 05 


1 00 


150 


! 2 20 


1 15 




P. M. 


P. M. 



Exp. | 

A.M. 

3 10 

3 26 
3 33 



Pass. 


Exp. 


Exp. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


P.M. 


7 20 


8 25 
8 35 
8 43 

8 50 

9 03 
9 12 


11 01 




9 30 


12 05 




9 40 


12 15 




9 50 


12 30 


P. M. 


P. M. 


A. M. . 



Pass^_ 



6 35 

6 45 

7 00 

A. M. 



5. 



E§T Trains marked (*) run daily. Other trains, Sundays excepted. 
Connects with Hudson & Boston Railway. 
Connects with New York Central Railway. 
Connects with Albany & Susquehanna Railway. 
Connects with Troy & Boston Railway 
Connects with Rensselaer & Saratoga Railway. 



New York and Harlem Hailivay. 



STATIONS. 



LEAVE. . 

N. Y. City Hall 

26th Street* 

42d Street 

Harlem 

Mott Haven 

Melrose 

Morrisania 

Tremont 

Fordham 

Williams' Bridge l . 

Wood Lawn 

West Mt. Vernon 

Bronxville 

Tuckahoe 

Scarsdale 

Hart's Corners .. 

ARRIVE 



NEW YORK TO ALBANY AND TKOY. 



2% 



9 
10 
11 

iz 
14 

17 
19 

20 
22 
24 



Exp. 


Pass. 


Mail. 


Pass. 


A. M. 


A. M. 


A. M. 


P. M. 


7 00 


9 IO 


IO OO 


2 30 


7 10 


9 20 


IO IO 


2 40 




9 35 




2 55 




9 4o 




3 OO 




9 45 


10 31 


3 04 




9 47 




3 07 




9 52 




3 11 




9 56 




3 15 




IO 01 




3 20 




10 04 




3 23 




10 08 




3 27 




10 15 




3 34 




IO 18 




3 37 




10 26 




3 45 




IO gl 




3 51 



P. M. 

4 OO 

4 10 



4 15 

4 25 



02 



5 
5 

5 1 
5 1 

5 ^ 



5 35 

5 45 



6 16 

6 23 
6 31 

6 34 
6 42 

6 47 



* Passengers take city Cars at Astor House 35 minutes earlier than time given 
above for leaving 26th Street. 

Williams' Bridge Trains.— Leave 26th St. for Williams 1 Bridge 
at 6.30 A. M., and 3.25, 5.00, 8.30 P. M. (Wed. at 6.40 instead of 8.30 P M.) 
Leave Williams 1 Br. for New York at 5.30 and 8 10 A. M., and 4.45, 6.15 P. M. 

I. N. Y. & N. Haven Railway diverges. 



New York and Harlem Railway — 
Continued, 



NEW TORK TO ALBANY AND TROT. 



STATIONS. 



Miles Exp. Pass. Mail. Pass. Exp. Pass. Pass 



LEAVE A. M. A. M. A. M. P. M. P. M. P. M. P.M. 

White Plains 26 8 06 10 36 n 17 3 56 5 06 5 30 6 53 

Kensico 29 A. m. h 25 P. 31. 5 37 7 01 

Unionville 32 11 35 5 46 7 09 

Pleasantville 34 11 42 5 52 7 15 

Chappaqua 36 826 11 48 558 722 

Mount Kisco 40 11 59 5 35 6 08 7 30 

Bedford 42 842 1206 614 p.m. 

Katonah 45 12 14 5 47 6 22 

GolderTs Bridge 47 12 20 6 28 

Purdy's 49 1226 634 

Oroton Falls 51 902 1233 602 640 

Brewster's 55 913 12 45 6 13 6 51 

DykemarTs 58 12.53 658 

Ice Pond 59 

Towner's 61 1 01 7 06 

Paterson 64 1 09 7 14 

Pawlings 67 947 127 6 48 7 22 

South Dover 73 1 42 P. M. 

Dover Plains. 80 10 14 159 715 

Wassaic 85 211 

Amenia 88 10 30 2 21 7 35 

Sharon Station 91 2 28 

Ulillerton 96 1048 242 758 

Boston Corners 103 3 02 

Copake 108 3 14 

Hillsdale 112 11 23 3 25 8 36 

Bain's I15 3 32 

Martindale I19 3 42 

Philmont 122 3 51 

Ghent 2 128 4 06 

Chatham 4 Corners 131 12 co 4 12 9 50 

East Albany 3 154 12 50 10 40 

Albany 1 00 10 50 

Troy 160 1 10 1 1 00 

ARRIVF. P. M. P^JIt. P. M . 

Fare*. — Through Fare, $3.00. Way Fares, about 7.% cents per mile. 

Sunday Train. — Leaves New York for Millerton at 9.00 A. M. Mil- 
lerton for New York at 4.30 P. M. 

White Plains. — Leave 26th Street for White Plains at 6.00 and 6.40 
P. M. (Wed. at 11.30 instead of 6.40 P. M.) Leave White Plains for New 
York at 6.00 A. M. and 12.15 P- M. 

2. Connects with Western Railway. 2. Junction of Hudson and Boston 
Railway. 3. Connects with Troy and Greenbush Railway. 

9 



ROUTE II,— Rensselaer and Saratoga 
Railivay. 



STATIONS. 



Saratoga 



Mis Mail. 



LEAVE 

Albany 1 

Schenectady 

Troy 2 

Green Island .... 

Waterford 

Albany Junction 
Mechanicsville. . . . 

East Line 

Ballstons 

arrive { 
leave f 

Gansevoort 

Moreau 

Fort Edward 4 ... 

Dunham 1 sBa sin 

Smith's Basin 

Foit Ann 

Comstock's Landing 

s I Junction 

s? fL. Chaiu.5 

^ ) Junction 

Fairhaven 

Hydeville 



Eagle Bridge 6 

Waifs Corner 

Cambridge 

Shushan. 

Salem 

West Rupert 

Rupert 

Pawlet 

Granville 

Middle Granville.. 
Poultney 



Castleton 

W.Rut.&Clar. Spr. 

Centre Rutland 

Rutland 8 

ARRIVE 





1 

4 
6 

1:2 

•25 

32 

43 
48 
49 
52 

57 
61 
65 
71 
73 
71 
79 

§L 

'23 

•20 
34 
41 
43 
49 
56 
59 
61 
67 
84 
91 
93 
95 



A. M. 

7 10 



8 13 

8 45 

9 05 
9 10 
9 35 
9 48 
9 53 

10 01 
10 12 
10 23 
10 33 

10 49 

11 00 

10 53 

11 15 
11 20 



Ace. Mail. 



5 45 

6 05 
6 13 
6 40 

55 



Exp. 



P. M. 

2 00 



11 29 
11 45 
11 50 
11 55 

A. M. 



8 05 1 
8 30 | 
8 38 i 



3 50 
9 07 
9 13 
9 20 

P. M. 



2 55 

3 12 
3 25 

3 46 

4 11 
4 30 
4 40 

4 45 

5 00 



P. M. 

9 45 



5 20 
5 40 
5 45 
5 50 

P. M. 



10 45 

11 01 
11 15 
11 33 

11 58 

12 16 
12 24 
12 29 
12 45 



1 03 
1 20 
1 25 
1 30 

A. M. 



1. Connects with New York Central, Hudson River, Harlem, Albany & Susquehanna, and 
Boston & Albany Railways. Also with Steamboats to New York. 2. Connects with railways 
diverging from Troy. 3. Junction of Saratoga & Schenectady Division. 4. Steamboats to 
Glenn's Falls, Lake George, &c. 5. Steamboats to Burlington, Plattsburgh and Montreal. 
6. Connects with Troy & Boston Railway. 7. Connects with Stages for Clarendon Springs. 
8. Connects with Rutland & Burlington and Bennington & Rutland Railways. 



ROUTE IV.— Ogdensburgh and Lake 
Cha m/pla in Ha fflwa //. 




LEAVE 

Ogdensburgh . 

Lisbon 

Madrid 

Potsdam 

Knapps 

Brasher Falls 

Lawrence 

Moira 

Brush's Mills 

Bangor 

£S? }■■!— 

Burke 

Chateaugay 

Summit 

Clinton Mills 

Brandy Brook 

Ellenburg 

Forest 

Side Track 

lrona 

Altona 

Wood's Falls 

Centerville 

Mooer's 

Perry's Mills 

Champlain 

Rouse's Point 

ARRIVE 




9 
17 
25 
28 
35 
41 
47 
49 
55 

61 

69 

73 

81 

83 

8S 

89 

92 

94 

95 

97 

100 

102 

106 

110 

113 

lis 



00 
35 
70 
1 00 
1 10 
1 40 
1 60 

1 90 

2 00 
2 -20 

2 40 

2 70 

2 90 

3 20 
3 35 
3 55 
3 60 
3 70 



A.M. 

11 40 

12 00 
12 20 
12 40 
12 48 

1 10 
1 25 
1 40 

1 47 

2 02 



P.M. 

7 00 
7 26 

7 52 

8 25 
8 35 

8 58 

9 17 
9 35 
9 43 

10 00 



*2 "20 


10 20 


2 40 


P.M. 


3 1)2 




3 15 




3 40 




3 48 




4 0.-) 




4 15 





3 SO 


3 90 


4 00 


4 00 


4 00 


4 00 


4 00 


4 00 



4 23 

4 30 
4 40 

4 47 

5 00 
5 10 
5 19 
5 30 
P.M. 



A.M. 

7 45 

8 10 
8 25 

8 52 

9 00 
9 15 
9 18 
9 27 



9 45 

10 00 
10 08 

10 24 
10 35 

A.M. 



* Dinner. CONNECTIONS: 

At Ogdensburgh, trains connect with Grand Trunk Railway for Brockville, Kingston, 
Toronto, Detroit, Chicago, Milwaukee, and all points West. Also with trains on St. 
Lawrence & Ottawa Railway lor Ottawa ; and with trains on Rome, Watertown & 
Ogdensburgh Railway tor Watertown, Rome and the West ; also with Steamers of North - 
ern Transportation Co., running through from Ogdensburgh to Cleveland, Toledo, Detroit, 
Milwaukee and Chicago, without change, touching at intermediate points, thus offering 
unequalled facilities for parties moving to the Great West. Also connecting at Ogdens- 
burgh with Lake Ontario Steamers for Oswego, Charlotte, Lewiston, and Niagara Falls, 
passing through the far-famed Thousand Islands of the River St. Lawrence, together 
with the Steamers from Ogdensburgh to Montreal and Quebec, passing down the Rapids 
of the St. Lawrence in their course! 

At Potsdam Junciion, trains connect with Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburgh Railway for 
Potsdam, Canton, Watertown, &c; also with Stages for Massena Springs. 

At Mooer's Junction, trains connect with Plattsburgh & Montreal Railway for Plattsburgh ; 
thence by Lake Champlain Steamers for Burlington, Ticonderoga, Lake George, White- 
hall, Saratoga, Troy, Albany, &c; also by rail from Burlington for East and South. 

At Rouse's Point, trains connect with Vermont Central Railwav for Burlington, White 
River Junction, White Mountains, Bellows Falls, Concord, 'Manchester, Fitchburg, 
Lowell, Lawrence, Portland, Boston, Worcester, Springfield, Hartford, and New York ; 
and via Rutland & Burlington Railwav from Burlington to Rutland, Bellows Falls, 
Fitchburg, and Boston ; and South to TVoy, Albany, and New York. Also at Rouse's 
Point with trains on Montreal & Champlain Railwav for Montreal, Ac. 



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Stamford 
Special. 



Express. 






ADDITIONAL TRAIN'S— Accommodation Train leaves New York for Stamford at 2. 15 p.m. 
Leave Stamford for New York at 5 and 8.15 a. if. Leave New York for Norwalk at 9 a. m. 
Leave Norwalk for New York at 6.45 a. if. Leave Stamford for New Haven at 6.20 a. m. 

Through Fare, $2.25. Way Fare, about 3 cents per mile. Discount made to passen- 
gers procuring Tickets before taking seats in the cars. 

The Boston Express Train which leaves New York at 8 a. if., arrives at Boston at 5.05 
p.m., the 3 p. m. arrives at Boston at 11.50 p.m. A Mail and Express Train leaves New 
York at 8 p. if., and arrives at Boston at 6 next morning. 

* Passengers take city cars, opposite Astor House, 30 minutes earlier than time given above 
for leaving New York. 

1. New York & New Haven Railway diverges from New York & Harlem Railway. 

2. Junction of Danbury & Norwalk Railway. 

3. Connects with Naugatuck and Housatonic Railways ; also, by Steamboat with New York 

4. Connects with New Haven & New London Railway. 

4. " " New Haven, Hartford & Springfield Railways. 

4. " " New Haven & Northampton Railway. 

4. " " Steamboats for New York daily. 



Boston, Concord and Montreal, and White 
Mountains (JV. H,) Railways. 



STATIONS. 



LEAVE 

Concord. 1 

East Concord 

North Concord 

Canterbury 

Northfield 

Sanborn ton 

Union Bridge 

Laconia 

Lake Village 

Weirs 

Meredith Village 

Fogg's Road 

Holderness 

Bridgewater 

til™ f Plymouth. 

Quincy 

Rumney 

West Rumney 

Wentworth 

Warren 

East Haverhill 

Haverhill and Newbury. 

North Haverhill.- 

Woodsville 

arrive | yvpIIs R. 2 

LEAVE f **«« s "• • 

Bath 

Lisbon 

North Lisbon 

Littleton 



1 

Milks. 


Mail. 


Accommoda- 
tion. 




A.M. 


P.M. 





10 31 


3 25 


2 


10 37 


3 31 


5 






10 


10 56 


3 49 


13 


11 05 


3 58 


18 


11 18 


4 13 


22 


11 27 


4 27 


27 


11 41 


4 41 


29 


11 46 


4 46 


33 


12 00 


5 00 


37 


12 15 


5 15 


41 






45 


12 40 


5 40 


48 






51 


12 55 


5 50 


1 20 


P.M. 


97 






59 


1 41 




62 


1 50 




67 


2 03 




71 


2 14 




79 


2 44 




84 


2 58 




89 


3 09 




93 


3 25 




93 


3 30 
3 40 




98 


4 00 




103 


4 17 




108 


4 33 




113 


4 48 

P.M. 





1 Railways diverging from Concord :— Boston, Concord and 
Montreal (above) ; Northern ; Concord and Portsmouth ; Concord and 
Claremont ; Concord, Manchester and Lawrence. 

2 Connects with Connecticut and Passumpsic Rivers Railway. 

Steamer "Lady of the Lake," during the season of navigation, leaves 
Weirs for Centre Harbor, Wolfboro', &c. on arrival of each train. 

Stages leave Plymouth and Littleton, or White Mountains and 
Franconia Notch. 

Stages leave Sanbomton for New Hampton and Gilmanton— Mere- 
dith Village for Conway— Plymouth for Franconia— Littleton for Lan- 
caster and other places (see Connecticut & Passumpsic Railway) on 
the arrival of the first up-train from Boston. 



Connecticut and JPassumpsir Hirers Hailirai/* 



GOING SOUTH. 


STATIONS. 


GOING 


NORTH. 








i 


«; 








Expb's 


Mail. 
A.M. 


Fares. 


1 




X 


Fares. 


Expr's 
P.M. 


Mail. 


P.M. 




LEAVE ARRIVE 


P.M.' 


700 


700 







..North Derby... 


110 




125 


650 


715 


718 





5 


Newport 


105 


4 20 


113 


6 38 


7 27 


730 


30 


10 


Coventry 


100 


3 95 


100 


625 


7 37 


7 40 


55 


15 


. . .Barton Landing. . . 


95 


3 75 


12 50 


615 


7 54 


7 57 


80 


20 


Barton 


90 


3 65 


12 33 


5 59 


809 


812 


95 


25 


South Barton 


85 


3 50 


12 22 


5 48 


829 


S32 


1 30 


33 




77 


3 15 


11 58 


5 22 


855 


8 57 


1 65 


42 


. . Liyndonville. . . 


68 


2 75 


11:38 


5 02 


9 08 


910 


1 80 


47 


. . St. Johnsbury Oen . 


63 


2 60 


1120 


4 43 


. 9 17 


918 


1 90 


49 


. . St. Johnsbury . 


61 


2 50 


1113 


4 36 


9 23 


9 25 


2 00 


52 


Passumpsic 


58 


2 40 


1104 


4 27 


- 




2 15 


56 


McLeran's 


54 


2 25 






945 


9 46 


2 30 


59 




51 


2 10 


10 43 


406 


9 50 


9 51 


2 40 


62 


Mclndoes 


48 


2 00 


10 37 


^4 00 






2 55 


66 


Ryegate 


44 


1 85 




i* 


1010 


10 13 


2 70 


70 


...Wells River... 


40 


1 65 


10 16 


3 43 


10 20 


10 28 


2 85 


74 


Newbury 


36 


1 50 


954 


3 25 


10 26 


10 35 


2 95 


77 


. . . South Newbury. . . 


33 


1 40 


9 42 


308 


10 36 


10 45 


3 10 


81 


Bradford 


29 


1 25 


9 32 


2 57 


10 53 


1102 


3 35 


88 


Fairlee 


22 


95 


916 


2 41 


1107 


11 16 


3 55 


93 


...North Thetford... 


17 


■75 


9 04 


2 29 


11 15 


11 24 


3 65 


95 


Thetford 


15 


05 


8 55 


220 


1126 


1135 


3 85 


100 


Pompanoosuc 


10 45 


8 44 


2 09 


1141 


1150 


4 05 


106 


Norwich 


4 


25 


8 30 


155 


1151 


12 00 


4 20 


110 


White R. June. 








*8 20 


145 


P.M. 


NOON. 






ARRIVE LEAVE 






A.M. 


P.M. 



* This train does not run on Mondays. 

Special Train Sundays leaves White R. Junction 12.15 a.m., arriving 
at North Derby 5.00 a.m. 



RAIL/WAY CONNECTIONS. 

At Wells River with White Mountains Railway for Littleton 
(the nearest railway station to White and Franconia Mountains) and 
Boston. Concord and Montreal Railway for Concord. 

At White River Junction, with Northern (N. H.) Railway 
for Concord, Manchester. Portsmouth. Nassau, Worcester, Providence, 
Lowell, Lawrence, and Boston. — Vermont Central Railway, for Water- 
bury. Mount Mansfield. Montpelier, Burlington, Ogdensburgh. Mon- 
treal, and Saratoga Springs. — Vermont Central and Conn. River Line, 
for Windsor, Bellows Falls, Rutland, Saratoga Springs. Keene, Fitch- 
burg, Worcester. Providence. Brattleboro'. Northampton, Springfield, 
Hartford, New Haven, New York, and Southern Cities. 



Connecticut <f- Passumpsic Rivers Railway — 
Continued* 



STEAMBOAT CONNECTION. 

Steamer leaves Newport daily, during the pleasure travel season for 
Magog, connecting with Coaches for Grand Trunk Kailway (Sherbrooke 
Station), arriving at Montreal or Quebec same evening. 



For the White and Franconia Mountains and Lake 
Memphremagog. 

ijkThis is the most direct and pleasant route to White and Franconia 
Mountains, Lake Willoughby, and Lake Memphremagog, passing near 
the villages of Norwich, "Vt., Hanover, N. H. (where is located the 
celebrated Darmouth College), Thetford. Vt., Lyme, N. H., Fairlee, Vt., 
Oxford, N. H., Bradford, Vt., Haverhill, N. H., Newbury, Vt. (the 
location of the Sulphur Springs, much resorted to for their medicinal 
qualities), Wells Elver, Vt. (where White Mountains Railway connect 
for Littleton, the nearest railway station to the White and Franconia 
Mountains), Barnet, St. Johnsbury, Lyndon. Barton, Newport (the head 
of Lake Memphremagog), and North Derby, Vt. 

The Hotel accommodations along the entire line are first-class. 
•'Smoking Cars' 1 run on all trains. Luxuriously furnished "Ladies* 
Cars " run daily between Springfield and Lake Memphremagog during 
the pleasure-travel season. 

"^"From New York.— The route via New York & New Haven Railway, 
or New Haven Steamers and Connecticut River Valley, is sixty miles 
shorter than any other, and the time correspondingly quicker. The 
scenery along the valley of the Connecticut River, which is followed 
for some 200 miles, is unsurpassed for beauty and variety. There is no 
change of cars between Springfield and Lake Memphremagog. 

From Boston— The route is via Boston and Lowell, Boston and 
Maine, or Fitchburg Railways, to White River Junction, there con- 
necting with Passumpsic Road for points as named above. No change 
of cars between Boston (Lowell Railway Depot) and Lake Memphre- 
magog. 

From Saratoga Springs— The route is via Lake George, Lake 
Champlain, and Burlington, or via Rutland and Bellows Falls to White 
River Junction, as above. 

From Quebec — The route is via Grand Trunk Railway to Sherbrooke, 
thence by coach to Magog, connecting with Steamer for Newport, 
thence by Passumpsic Railway to White and Franconia Mountains, 
New York, or Boston. 

From Montreal— The route is via Grand Trunk Railway to Sher- 
brooke, or via Montreal and Champlain, and Stansted, Shefford and 
Chambly Railways, to Waterloo; thence "by coaches to Magog or 
Knowlton's Landing, connecting with Steamer for Newport, thence by 
Passumpsic Railway to White Mountains, New York, or Boston. 



■8 



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u - 



8 
a 






■«P § 



•a fl"3 a 

« -is. 



•s a-s-g-sy-s 

S \r, =>!Z &£ S 

a g a" a "3 c 
o P o .~o 3 o 
O oo SO So 

n '3 "* "S* *" 6o*° 
CO o, O 



=3 JS 

# '3 



•^ « 60 

fc S3 "5 



P3 . 

a g 

•S'S 
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03 t3 

B 

S p 



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P5 



,=« 



o*3 o boo a o o 

o aO ao.-eoo 
« co !> 



ROUTE VII.— New York Central Railway, 



STATIONS. 



LEAVE 

New York. 



Boston. 



Troy 



Miles. 



Albany 

Schenectady . . 17 

Amsterdam j 33 

Fonda | 44 

Palatine Bridge ... 55 

Fort Plain 58 

St. Johnsville 64 

Little Falls 74 

Herkimer 81 

Frankfort 86 

Utica 95 

Rome 110 

Verona 118 

Oneida 123 

Canastota I 128 

Chittenango 134 

^[•Syracuse 148 

Jordan 165 

Port Byron 173 

Clyde 186 

Lyons , 193 

Newark 199 

Palmvra 206 

Fairport 218 

ae. Rochester. 229 



lv. Rochester 

Brockport 

Albion 

Medina 

Lockport 

Suspension R. 
Niagara Falls 

ARRIVE 



Expr's Expr's Expr's 



P.M. A.M. A.M. 
1100 8 00 10 45 



P.M. A.M. A.M. 

9 00 5 00 8 30 



7 20 

8 10 

9 50 
9 15 
945 
9 53 

10 05 

10 28 

10 45 

10 55 

1140 

12 20 

12 42 

12 52 

105 

120 

155 

2 05 

2 50 

3 10 

3 45 

4 03 
415 
435 
510 
535 



120 
210 
2 45 



5 00 
5 55 
640 



Mail. Mail. Mail. Accom. 



P.M. 

400 



P.M. 

6 30 



P.M. P.M. 

3 00 3 00 



P.M. 

11 00 
1150 

12 25 



6 45 
6 50 



1150 
12 05 



7 40 1 10 



8 49 

9 35 



2:30 
£ 25 



229 
246 
260 
269 
285 
304 
306 



555 

6 47 

7 30 
810 

8 50 
940 

9 50 



9 55 

10 40 
1107 

11 26 
1157 

12 35 
12 50 



3:35 
418 

4 47 
510 

5 52 
640 
655 



515 
5 25 
610 



700 
7 32 



8 22 
845 



9 20 
10 06 
10 35 
1100 
11:55 
12 25 
12 40 



A.M. 

12 25 

1 10 





7 08 




2 05 


3 30 


740 


1 20 


2 28 


3 35 


7 48 


128 






8 03 




2 45 


4 05 


828 

8 47 

9 00 
9 45 


2 08 


3 05 






500 


3 05 


4 05 


5 30 


10 20 


3 40 


4 35 




10 50 


4 12 






1102 
1115 








440 





555 
6 05 

6 55 

7 38 

8 10 

9 00 



9 20 
10 06 
10 35 
1100 
1135 
12 25 
12 40 



P.M. A.M. A.M. P.M. P.M. 



12 10 
100 
140 

2 13 

3 00 
3 50 
400 

P.M. 



A.M. 

8 45 

9 35 
10 25 
1100 
1135 
1145 
12 00 
12 28 ! 
12 50 

103 
150 

2 35 

3 00 
3 12 
3 28 

3 45 
430 

4 45 
538 
605 
640 
705 
7 20 

7 43 

8 20 
850 



P.M. 

12 15 
125 

2 25 

3 30 

4 15 
425 

4 50 
525 

5 52 
610 

6 55 
750 
8 25 

8 40 
900 

9 25 
10 20 
10 25 
1130 
12 00 
12 50 

120 
140 
210 
3 30 
415 



615 
717 
800 
8:30 
9 30 
10 30 
10 45 

A.M. 



ROUTE VIII.—Gh°and Trunk Railway of 
Canada, 



STATIONS. 


Miles. 



5 

11 

12 

22 

27 

36 

41 

47 

62 

70 

80 

86 

91 

98 

103 

109 

122 

134 

149 

166 
175 
183 
186 
193 
196 
203 
211 
221 


Express. 


Express. 


Pass. 


Pass. 


LEAVE 

Portland 1 , 
Falmouth 

Yarmouth Junc'n 2 
New Gloucester. .'. 
Danville Junct'n 3 
Mechanic Falls 4 .. 

Oxford 

South Paris 

Bryant's Pond 

Bethel 

Gilead 

Shelburne 

Berlin Falls 

Milan 

West Milan 

Northumberland. . 
North Stratford... 
arrive I Island 
leave j Pond.. 

Norton Mills 

Coaticook 

Compton 


P. M. 

1 10 
1 25 
1 40 

1 45 

2 15 

2 30 

3 05 
3 23 

3 45 

4 25 

4 55 

5 25 

5 40 

6 00 
6 25 

6 45 

7 10 

8 05 

9 00 
10 00 
10 00 

10 50 

11 25 

11 50 

12 00 
12 25 
12 40 

1 00 

1 25 

2 15 


A. M. 

6 00 

6 45 

7 20 
7 40 

7 48 

8 07 
8 20 

8 40 

9 05 
9 30 


A- M. 
7 10 

7 25 
7 40 

7 45 

8 20 

8 40 

9 08 
9 20 
9 55 

11 00 
11 40 

1 00 

1 30 

4 30 

5 05 

5 30 

6 00 

7 15 
9 00 

10 30 

6^AM 
7 45 
9 15 
9 55 
10 15 

10 50 

11 20 

11 45 

12 20 
1 40 


Q 
o 

era 

CD 
W 


Waterville 

Lennoxville 

Brompton Falls. . . 

Windsor 

ar Richmond 5 


Pass. 

A. M. 


leave Quebec 6 

Point I<evi 

Chaudiere Jun 

Chaudiere 

Craig's Road 

Black River 

Methot's Mills 

Becancour 

Stanfold 

Danville 

'arrive 



7 
8 
15 
20 
28 
41 
49 
55 
64 
71 
84 


7 30 

8 00 
8 30 
8 35 

8 55 

9 10 
9 45 

10 30 

10 55 

11 20 

11 50 

12 20 
1 05 

A. W. 


P.M. 


A. M. 


7 45 

8 15 

9 15 
9 20 
9 50 

10 20 

11 10 

12 30 
1 15 

1 50 

2 40 

3 30 
440 

A. M. 



CONNECTIONS.— 1. Connects with Portland, Saco & Portsmouth Railway, which con- 
nects with the Eastern and Boston- & Maine Railways for Boston. 2. Junction of Kennebec 
& Portland Railway. 3. Junction of Androscoggin & Kennebec Railway. 4. Junction of 
Buckfield Branch. 5. Junction of Quebec Division, below. 6. Connects with Steamers 
sailing from Quebec. 



Grand Trunk Mail/way — Continued, 



STATIONS. 


Miles. 


Express. 


Express. 


Pass. 


Pass. 


LEAVE 


P. M. 


A. M. 


A.M. 


A. M. 


Richmond 


•2-21 


2 15 


9 45 


1 40 


5 45 


New Durham 


231 


2 45 


10 15 


2 25 


P. M. 




243 


3 25 


10 45 


3 10 




Upton 


249 


3 50 


11 05 


3 40 




Britannia Mills. .. 


255 


4 10 


11 22 


4 10 




St. Hyacinthe 


•2(52 


4 30 


11 45 


4 40 




St. Hilaire 


275 


5 10 


12 25 


5 40 




Belceil 


276 


5 20 


12 35 


5 50 




St. Lambert 


290 


6 05 


1 12 


6 45 




Montreal i 


297 


6 30 


1 35 


7 15 




lve Portland.. 





1 10 

A. M. 


P. M. 








297 


9 10 


8 30 


7 15 




Pointe Claire 


311 




it 15 


8 35 




St. Anne*s 


318 




9 36 


9 07 




Vandreuil 


321 




9 46 


9 25 




Coteau Landing. . . 


334 


10 45 


10 28 


10 55 




Lancaster 


351 

364 


11 25 

12 15 


11 15 

12 10 


12 00 
1 10 




Cornwall 




Dickinson's Landg 


374 


12 40 


12 45 


1 50 




Williamsburg 


389 


1 20 


1 30 


3 02 




Matilda 


396 


1 35 


1 53 


3 30 




Edwardsburgh 


401 


1 50 




4 00 




Prescott Junction 


410 


2 20 


2 45 


4 35 




Brocltville 


422 


a 52 


3 25 


5 40 




Lyn 


426 


3 04 


3 35 


6 05 






435 


3 25 


4 00 


6 50 




Landsdowne 


444 


3 45 




7 35 




Gananoque 


452 


4 05 


4 47 


8 22 




£* J- Kingston. 


469 


4 50 

5 10 


5 40 

5 40 


10 00 

P. M. 




Napanee.. 


495 


6 25 


6 55 






Sbannonville 


510 


■ 7 05 








Belleville 


517 


7 25 


8 00 






Trenton 


529 


7 57 


8 32 






Brighton 

Colborne 


538 


8 25 


9 00 






546 


8 47 


9 20 






Grafton 


553 


9 05 


9 40 










A.M. 


P. M. 







1 Connects with Montreal and Tor. Division. 

1. Connects with Montreal & Champlain Railway. 

l.SConnects with Riviere do Loup Br., page 143. 

All Passenger Trains, East and West, run to and from the City Terminus, Bonaventure 
St., Montreal. Trains are run between Portland and Island Pond by Portland time ; between 
Montreal and Quebec, by Montreal time. 

RIVIERE DU LOUP BRANCH.— Mail Train leaves Quebec for Riviere du Loup at 9 a.m. 
arriving at Riviere du Loup at 5.55 p. m. 

Leaves Riviere du Loup at 1 A. m., arriving at Quebec at 4.15 p. m. 

An Express Train leaves Quebec at a. m., on Tuesdays and Thursdays. 

Leaves Riviere du Loup for Quebec on Wednesdays and Fridays, at p. m. 

Through distance, 126 miles. 



Grand Trunk Railway — Continued, 



STATIONS. 


Miles. 


Express. 

P. M. 

9 45 
10 05 
10 35 

10 50 

11 00 
11 28 
11 40 

11 55 

12 15 
1 00 

A. M. 

A. M. 
5 00 

5 30 


Express. 


Pass. 


Pass. 


LEAVE 

Co oourg 

Port Hope 

Newcastle 

Bowmanville 

Whitby 

Duffln's Creek 

Frenchman's Bay. 
Port Union 


561 

567 
577 
583 
587 
596 
600 
607 
609 
613 
619 
628 

630 

638 
659 
665 
678 
693 
699 
705 
712 
718 
729 


P. M. 

10 15 
10 32 

10 55 

11 11 
11 22 
11 45 

11 55 

12 26 

1 05 
1 15 
1 15 

1 35 

2 35 

2 52 

3 30 

4 05 

4 35 

5 10 
5 35 


Express. 

A. M. 

7 30 

7 52 

8 48 

9 05 
9 45 

10 25 

10 47 

11 05 

11 25 

12 00 
12 25 




Don 

Jjj- Toronto i 

Weston 

Georgetown . . 

Acton West 

Guelph 2 

Berlin 

Petersburgh 

Hamburgh 

Stratford s 

St. Mary's 


Mail. 

P. M. 

3 45 

4 05 

5 00 
5 18 

5 55 

6 35 

6 53 

7 10 
7 30 

7 45 

8 10 


St. Mary's 

London 4 

St. Mary's 

Ailsa Craig 

Sarnia 

Port Huron 

Eidgeway 

New Baltimore 

Mt. Clemens 

Detroit 5 

ARRIVE 


729 

751 


8 10 

9 30 


5 35 12 30 

6 45 1 30 


8 10 

9 10 

P. M. 
A. M. 

6 30 

7 40 

8 00 
8 40 

10 15 

A. M. 


629 
751 
798 
799 
820 
826 
836 
961 


5 30 

6 33 

8 50 

9 00 
9 52 

11 40 

A, M. 


6 35 
6 30 
8 20 

8 25 

9 13 

10 50 

P. M. 


12 25 
1 25 
3 30 

3 30 

4 15 
4 27 

4 50 

5 55 

P.M. 



CONNECTIONS. 1. Connects with Northern Railway ; Hamilton & Toronto Branch of 
Great Western Railway. Also, with Steamers sailing from Toronto. 

2. Junction of Guelph Branch of Great Western. 

3. Junction of Buffalo & Lake Huron Division. 

4. Connects with Great Western Railway. Junction of London & Port Stanley Railway. 

5. Connects with Michigan Central, Detroit & Milwaukee, and the Michigan Southern 
Railways ; and with Lake Steamers. 

Trains are run between Montreal and Toronto by Montreal Time ; between Toronto, Lon- 
don and Sarnia by Toronto Time ; and between Sarnia and Detroit by Chicago Time. 

Express Trains connect at Stratford with trains to and from Buffalo and Goderich ; at De- 
troit with Day and Night trains of Michigan Central, Michigan Southern, and Detroit & 
Milwaukee Railways ; also at Sarnia, during navigation, with new lines of powerful Passen- 
ger Steamers for Milwaukee, Chicago, and the principal ports on Lakes Huron, Michigan, 
and Superior. Refreshment Rooms at Point St. Charles, Cornwall, Kingston, Cobourg, 
Toronto, Stratford, and Sarnia. 

MONTREAL AND CHAMPLAIN DISTRICT.— An Express Train leaves Rouse's Point 
for Montreal at 6.30 a.m. Leaves Montreal at 3.30 p. m., arriving at Rouse's Point at 6.15 
p. m. Distance, 49 miles. 

THREE RIVERS DIVISION. A Train leaves Arthabaska Junction for Three Rivers, at 
7 .30 a. m. Returning, leaves Three Rivers at 4 p. m. Distance, 35 miles. 



Grand Trunk Railway/ of Canada. 

Montreal & Champlain Division. Riviere Du Loup Branch. 



MONTREAL TO ROUSE S POINT. 



STATIONS. 



Miles Mail. 



STATIONS. 



ARRIVE. 

Montreal * 

St. Lambert 

Brosseau"s 

Lacadie 

St. Johns -' 

Grand Ligne 

Stottsville 

Lacolle 

Rouse's Point :i 



Exp. | Exp. Hxd. 

A. M. P. M. 

9 25 9 50 
9 039 30 
8 45 9 17 

5 20 8 55 

8 00 8 30 
7 35 
T 10 

6 55 
6 30 



1. Connects with Grand Trunk Railway. Also 
with Steamboats for Quebec, Kingston, Toronto, &c. 

2. Junction of Stanstead, Shetlord and Chambly 
Railway. 

3. Connects with Vermont and Canada, Ogdens- 
burgh and L. Champlain Railways, and Steamers to 
Burlington, Lake Georgf, Whitehall, &c. 

Province Line Division. 

STATIONS. Mile--. 

LEAVE. 

Montreal ' 

Lachine 8 

Caughnawaga 10 

St. Isidore 15 

St. Remi 21 

Lapigeoniere 25 

Johnsons 32 

Hemmingford 36 

Province Line - 40 



LEAVE 

Riv. du Loup 

St. Alexander 12 

St. Helene 20 

St. Pascal 26 



30 
35 
42 
50 
57 
62 
65 
72 



Mail. 


r. M. 


3 00 


3 25 


3 45 


4 05 


4 30 


4 46 


5 15 


5 31 


5 45 


p. m. 



St. Denis 

Riviere Ouelle.. .. 

St. Anne 

St. Roch 

St. Jean Port Joli 
Trois Saurnons. . . 

L'Islet 

Cap St. Ignace. . . 

St. Thomas 79 

St. Pierre 85 

St. Francois 86 

St. Valier 93 

St. Michel 97 

St. Charles 103 

St. Henri 110 

St. Jean Chrysost. 114 
Chaudiere Curve. . 118 

Hadlow 124 

Pointe L.evi i 
opp Quebec l. J 



7 00 

7 50 

8 20 

8 45 

9 05 
9 25 
9 50 

10 20 

10 50 

11 15 

11 45 

12 13 
12 40 

1 00 
1 13 
1 35 

1 50 

2 15 

2 50 

3 10 
3 30 
3 50 

125 4 00 



1. Connects with Grand Trunk Railway. 

2. Connects with Plattsburg& Montreal Railway, 



Plattsburgh & Montreal Railway, 



1 Connect? with Grand Trunk Uailway for 
Montreal ana Portland. 

Three Rivers Branch. 



Miles M xd 



STATIONS. 



Miles. Mxd. Hall- Exp. 



LEAVE. A. M. P. M. 

Montreal i 3 00 

Province Line 40 5 00 

Mooers Junction 2. . 42 10 10 5 10 

Sciota 46 10 34 5 26 

Chazy 51 10 59 5 44 

Beekmantown 56 11 21 5 59 

Plattsburgh 3 . . 60 11 40 6 10 

ABBIVE. __^_ : A. M. P. M . 

1. Connects with Steamers and Grand Trunk 
Railway for Ottawa and Quebec. 

2. Connects with Ogdensburgh & Lake Champlain 
Railway. 

3. Co nnects with Lake Champlain Steamers. 



Arthabaska J 

Walker' s Cutting . . 4 

Bulstrode 11 

Aston 18 

St. Celestin 25 

St. Gregoire 31 

Roucet's L.d'g 35 



7 30 

7 50 

8 15 

8 45 

9 15 
9 35 
9 55 



Lachine Division. 

Trains leave Montreal at 8.00 and 
9.30 a. m., and 3.00 and 5.00 p. m., ar- 
riving at Lachine at 8.30 and 10 a.m., 
and 3.25 and 5.30 p. m. 

Returning, leave Lachine at 8.35 and 
10.00 a. m., and 4.00 and 5.30 p. m., ar- 
riving at Montreal at 9.00 and 10.30 
a. m., and 4.30 and 6 00 p. m. 

Distance, 8 miles. 



JZOUTE XI.—Karitan & Delaware Bay It, M. 



Going South. 



Going North. 



■a 



^ 



P. M. P.M. 

4 00 | 4 00 



,_J 








eg 




& 


00 


<9 


$ 


oo 


s 


CD 




oj 




Oh 









STATIONS. 



03 

Ph 



■a 






A. M. 

5 50 

6 01 
6 12 
6 40 

6 51 



54 



7 41 


6 08 


8 00 
8 10 
8 21 

8 27 


6 13 

6 18 
6 23 

6 27 



LEAVE ARRIVE 

f New York 1 

n J .Pier No. 32, N. R., foot of . . . I 
u il Duane Street | 

i Pier No. 4, N. R J { 

(Steamboat) 

19 ! P. M. Pier 35 

20 Port Monmouth 34 

22 Highland* 32 

23 j Middletown 31 

26 I Red Bank 28 

28 Shrewsbury 26 

29 | Junction 25 

30 Eatontown 24 

31 Oceanport 23 

33 Iranchport* 21 

34 Long Branch 20 



A. M. A. M. 

9 55 I 9 55 



8 26 
8 18 
8 12 
8 06 
7 54 
7 47 
7 11 



8 12 
8 35 

8 46 

9 19 
9 37 
9 46 

10 10 
10 40 



6 27 
6 39 

6 45 

7 02 

7 18 
7 26 
7 48 

A. M. P. M. 



35 

38 
40 
46 
50 
52 
54 



7 36 


3 30 


7 31 


3 18 


7 26 


3 08 


7 20 


2 50 



. . . Shark River* 

Farmingdale 

Squankum 

Bricksburg* 

. . .White's Bridge 

Ridgeway 2 

..Manchester 

. Tom's River* 



7 21 
7 09 
7 02 

6 45 

6 27 
6 22 



3 19 ] 
2 58" 
2 43 
2 15 
1 47 
1 38 
1 30 
6 00 12 45 '■ 

A. M. P. M. 

HEIP" An Accommodation Train will leave Long Branch for Junction 
at a. m. Returning, will leave Junction at p. m. 

* STAGES connect at Highland for Riceville and Thompson's ; at 
Branchport for Deal ; at Shark River for Squam ; at Bricksburg for Point 

Pleasant; at Tom's River (with a. m. train from New York) for 

Cedar Creek, Forked River, Warstown, Barnegat, Mannahawken, 
Tuckerton, &c. 

Raritan & Delaware Bay Railway, for long Branch, Tom's River, Manchester, 
Bricksburg, Red Bank, Eatontown, Shrewsbury, &c. 
TWO DAILY LLNES (Sundays excepted) leave Pier No. 32, foot of 
Duane Street, by Steamers Neversink, at 9 a. m., and Jesse Hoyt, at 
4.05 p.m., touching at Pier No. 8, foot of Rector Street, at 4.20 p.m., for 
passengers only. Returning — Leave Tom's River at 5.40 a.m. and 1.45 
p.m. ; Long Branch, 7.15 a.m. and 3 p. m. 



ROUTE XII.— West Jersey Bait tray Co. 



STATIONS. 
LEAVE 

f Philadelphia. 

Camden 

Junction 

Gloucester 

Westville 

Woodbury 

Mantua 

Barnsboro 

Marlboro 

Glassboro' 

Union 

Harding 

Monroe 

Plttstown 

Palatine 

Husted 

Finley 

, Bridget on 
^ f Pittstown 
-< I Newkirk's 
£ | Daretown 



Cat>e Mav Bridgev'le Woodbury £•* &W 
M n and Sftlem At ' co,,M<> - S S Si; 



T. 



« i Paulding 

« -! York town 



g Oakland 
b I Alloway 
^ Middle'town 
* Salem 



< 

g 1 Newfleld 

g ] North Vineland 

§ Vineland 

South Vineland 
Jlillville 




f Glassboro 
Clayton 
Franklinville 
Cranes 
Malaga 



f Millville 
Manumuskin 
Belleplain 
Woodbine 
Mt. Pleasant. 
Seaville 
Swain 

C. M. Court House 
Millerton 
Rio Grande 

Bennett 

Cape m.ay 



* This train n ns only Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, from Millville. 

10 



Morris & Essenc Hallway, 



STATIONS. 

LEAVE 

j New York, 

j foot Barclay St. 

Hoboken 

Newark l 

Orange 

South Orange — 

Maplewood 

Millburn 

Summit 

Chatham 

Madison 

Morrlstown.. 

Morris Plains 

Denville -... .... 

Boonton 

Rockaway 

Dover 

Drakesville 

Stanhope 

Wate rloo :i . . ..... 

Andover 

Newton 

Hackettst'ii.. 

Wash ington 4 

Water Gap 

Stroudsburg 

Scran toii ._ 

Broadway 

Stewartsville 

Phillipsburg 5 

Easton ° 

Bethlehem 

Allen town 

Catasauqua 

Walnut Port 

Mauch Chunk 

Wilkesbarre 

Scranton 

ARRIVE 



TRAINS LEAVE NEW YORK. 



A.M. A. M. A. W. P. M. 



7 00 



9 25 



!10 08 
10.33 

12 50 
I 1 05 
I 3 40 



83 



Mis. j Mail. Exp. I Ace. Ace. Mail|Exp. Exp. Ace. 



8 45 

9 05 



11 05 
11 25 



11 30 3 00 



11 45 

12 10 
12 26 
12 34 
12 39 
12 44 
12 55 

1 05 
1 12 
1 25 

P. M. 



P. M. P. M. 



3 30 



4 00 

4 15 
4 40 



00 



P. M. 

5 10 



6 06 



10 



P. M. 

6 30 

6 45 

7 10 
7 28 
7 38 
7 42 

7 48 

8 00 
8 10 
8 17 



w 



1. Connects with Newark & Bloomfield Railway for Bloomfield, Montclair, &c. 

2. Connects with Boonton Branch for Boonton. 

3. Connects with Sussex Railway for Andover and Newton. 

4. Connects with Del., Lack. & Western Railway for Water [Gap,^ Stroudsburg, Scran- 
ton, and Great Bend. 

5. Connects with Belvidere Del. Railway for Belvidere,&c. 

6. Connects with Lehigh Valley Railway for Bethlehem, Allentown, Mauch Chunk; and 
also with Lehigh & Susquehanna Railway for Mauch Chunk, Wilkesbarre, and Scranton, 
and all points in the Pennsylvania coal regions. 



Long Island Rait way. 



STATIONS. 



Mis- 



I 



New YorK, 

James Slip — 
34th Street, E. R. 

Hunter* s Point 

Woodside 3 

Wintield 4 

Jamaica H) 

Willow Tree 11 

Queen's 13 

Hyde Park 16% 

Mineola 19 

Hempstead — [21% 

Roslvn 23>g 

Glen Cove 27% 

Locust Valley 29% 

Westbury 22 

Hicksvilfe '25 



Mail. Pass. Exp. Pass. Pass. Pass. Sund. 



i.M. A.M. ;P. M. P. M. P. M. P. M. A. M 



8 no 

8 15 
8 30 
8 40 

8 45 
00 

9 10 

9 20 
9 31 



10 30 

10 45 

11 00. 
11 10: 
11 14 
11 30 
11 35 
11 41 

11 50 

12 00 



3 30 

3 45 

4 on 



12 



9 40 



12 10 
1*2 10 
12 30 
12 40 



4 36 

4 53 

5 03 



9 40 12 10 
9 50 12 20 



4 30 
I l.i 

5 00 
5 10 
5 14 
5 30 

.-> 40 

5 50 

6 00 

6 10 

6 10 
(5 25 
6 30 

6 10 
6 20 



1-5 30 

5 45 

6 00 
6 10 



ByoBset 29 10 05 12 32 

Huntington 34>, 10 20 12 45 

Centerport 37 10 -28 12 52 

Nortliport 40 10 35 100 



Jerusalem "^8 

Farmingdale 30 

Deer Park 36 

Thompson to 

North Islip. . 42% 

Lakeland 48 

Holbrook 50 

Waverly 52 

Medford 54 

Bellport 56% 

Yaphauk 59 

Manor 65 

Riverliead 73 

Jamesport 78 

Mattituck 8-2 

Cutchogue 85 

Hermitage 88 

Southold 90 

Cireenport 94 

AF.KIVE 



10 00 
10 08 
10 25 
10 36 
10 43 

10 56 

11 02 
11 08' 
11 14 
11 20 
11 27 

11 45 

12 10 
12 25 
12 37 
12 47 
12 57 

1 03 
1 15 

P. M. 



5 16 
5 24 
5 41 

5 5s 

6 13 

6 24 



i; 

32 

37 
13 
55 



7 00 



7 20 
7 35 



6 32 7 52 

6 45 8 10 
52 8 20 

7 00 8 30 

6 30 

6 40 

6 58 

7 10 

r 18 

7 35 

7 41 
7 47 
7 55 



6 35 


8 02 


6 41 


8 10 


6 58 




7 22 




7 34 




7 43 




7 52 




8 00 




8 06 




8 20 




M. P. M. 


P. M- 



P. M. 



7 00 
7 15 
7 30 
7 40 

7 44 

8 00 
8 05 
8 10 
8 20 
8 30 



*8 45 
9 00 
9 10 
9 15 
9 30 

9 a5 

9 40 
9 50 

10 00 



7 16 


8 40 


7 18 


10 10 


7 35 


10 25 


7 45 


10 35 



10 10 
10 20 

10 33 
10 46 

10 53 

11 00 



* Sundav Train. t Runs daily. Other trains daily, Sundays excepted. 



PASSENGER STEAMBOATS 

FROM 

New York for Domestic Ports. 



Where not otherwise designated, the boats named 
below depart daily, Sundays excepted. 

Albany (People's Night Line). — Steamboats St. John, Monday, 
Wednesday and Friday 5 and Drew, Tuesday, Thursday 
and Saturday, at 6 p.m., from Pier 41, N. R., foot of Canal 
street. Returning, leave Albany at 8 p.m. 

Albail y aild Troy (Day Line). — Boats C. Vibhard and D. 
Drerc, leave Desbrosses street at 7 A.M., and 34th street 
at 7.15, connecting with railroads for all points North and 
West. 

Albany and Troy (Night Line). — Steamboats C. Vanderbilt, 
Monday, Wednesday and Friday 5 and Connecticut, Tuesday, 
Thursday and Sunday, at 6 p.m., from Pier 44, N. R., foot 
of Spring street. Returning, leave Troy at 6, and Albany 
at 8 p.m. 

Boston, via Newport, Fall River and Taunton, and also New 
Bedford, Martha's Vineyard, Nantucket, and all Cape Cod 
towns. — Steamboats Empire State, Monday, Wednesday 
and Friday 5 and Old Colony, Tuesday, Thursday and Sat- 
urday, at 5 p.m., from Pier 28, N. R., foot of Murray 
street. 

Boston, via Stonington, Conn., and Providence, R. I. — Steam- 
boats Stcnington, Monday, Wednesday and Friday 5 and 
Narragansrtt, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, at 5 p.m., 
from Pier 33, N. R., foot of Jay street. Returning, leave 
Boston, from Boston and Providence Railroad Depot, at 
6 p.m. 

Bo§t011, via Providence, R. I. — Steamers Electra, Galatea, etc., 
every afternoon at 5, from Pier 27, N. R. Returning, 
leave at 5 p.m. 



STEAMBOATS. 149 

BostOll, via New London, Norwich and Worcester. — Steamboats 
City of Boston, Monday, Wednesday and Friday $ and City 
of Lawrence, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, at 5 p.m., 
from Pier 40, N. R., foot of Canal and Watt streets. 
Returning, leave Boston, from Boston and Albany Rail- 
road Depot, at 5.30 p.m. 

Bridgeport, Colin. — Steamboat Bridgeport, daily, except 
Sundays, at 12 m., from Pier 35, E. R., foot of Catharine 
street. Returning, leave Bridgeport at 1 1 p.m. 

CatsRill, landing at Highland, Rhinebeck, Barrytown, Tivoli, 
Maiden, West Camp, and Germantown. — Steamboats 
Thomas Powell and Neio Champion, alternate daily, Sun- 
days excepted, at 5 p.m., from Pier 34, N. R., foot of 
Franklin street. Returning, leave Catskill daily, except 
Saturdays, at 6 p.m. 

College Point and Westchester. — Steamboat Osseo, 

daily, except Sundays, at 10.30 a.m. and 4 p.m., from Pier 
22, E. R., Fulton Market slip. Stops at Westchester only 
on 4 p.m. trip. Returning, leave College Point at 8 a.m. 
and 4 p.m. Discontinued. 

Elizabctliport, Bergen Point and Mariner's 

Harbor. — Steamboat Kill Von Ku// f daily, Sundays 
excepted, at 5 p.m. Returning, leaves Elizabethport at 
7.30 a.m. 

Flushing. — Steamboat Osseo, on Tuesday, Thursday and Satur- 
day, at 10.30 a.m., from Pier 22, E. R., Fulton Market 
slip. Returning, leaves Flushing, same days, at 1 p.m. 

Fort Lee, Bull's Ferry and Pleasant Valley. — Steamboat Thomas 
E. Hulse, at 10 a.m. and 5.30 p.m., from Pier 51, N. R., 
foot of Christopher street. Returning, leaves Fort Lee at 
7.15 and 4 p.m. On Sundays, leaves New York at 10 
a.m., 2 and 5.30 p.m. Leaves Fort Lee 7.30 and 11.45 
a.m., and 4.30 p.m. Lands at 34th street. 

Fort L«ee, Shady Side and Pleasant Valley. — Steamboat Palisade, 
at 10.30 a.m. and 5 p.m., from Pier 42, N. R., foot of 
Spring street. Returning leaves Fort Lee at 7.30 a.m. and 
1.30 P.M. 

Grassy Point, landing at Yonkers, Irvington, Tarrytown and 
Sing Sing. — Steamboat General Sedgwick, at 3.10 P.M., 
daily, except Sundays, from Pier 30, N. R.,foot of Chambers 



150 STEAMBOATS. 

street. Returning, leaves Grassy Point at 6.30 a.m., 
landing as above. 
Harlem, landing at 8th street, Astoria and 120th street. — 
Steamboats Sylvan Grove and Sylvan Stream, at 7, 8, 9.15 
and 11.30, 1.30, 3.15, 4.15, 5.10 and 6.15 p.m., daily, 
Sundays excepted, from Pier 24, E. R., Peck slip. Return- 
ing, leave Harlem at 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10.30 a.m., and 
1.30, 3, 4.15 and 5.15 p.m. 

Hartford and Connecticut River Landings.— 

Steamboats State of New York, City of Hartford, and 
Granite State, daily, Sundays excepted, at 4 p.m., from Pier 
24, E. R., Peck slip. Returning, leave Hartford at 4 p.m. 

HaverStraW, landing at Yonkers, Tarrytown (by ferry), Nyack 
and Sing Sing. — Steamboat Adelphi, daily, Sundays ex- 
cepted, at 3 p.m., from Pier 34, N. R., foot of Harrison 
street. Returning, leaves Haverstraw, stopping as above, 
at 7 a.m. 

Hud§011. — Steamboats Nuhpa, Monday, Wednesday and Friday 5 
and Rip Van Winkle, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, 
at 5 p.m., from Pier 51, N. R., fcot of Christopher street. 
Returning, leaves Hudson daily, except Saturday, at 6.30 

P.M. 

Keyport, IV. J. — Steamboat Matteawan, daily, except Sunday, 
at 3 p.m., from Pier 26, N. R., foot of Barclay street. 
Returning, leaves Keyport at 8 a. m. 

Long* Rrancll, Tom's River, etc., via Port Monmouth, 
and Raritan and Delaware Bay Railroad. — Steamboat jfesse 
Hoyt, daily, Sundays excepted, at 4 p.m., from Pier 30, N. 
R., foot of Chambers street. Returning, leaves Long 
Branch at 7.20 a.m.; Tom's River at 6 a.m. 

Long Branch. — Leaves Pier 32, Duane street, 9 a.m. and 
4 p.m. Leaves Long Branch at 7.15 a.m. and 3 p.m. 

Newark, IV. J. — Steamboat Thomas P. Way, daily, Sundays 
excepted, at 4 p.m., from Pier 26, N. R., foot of Barclay 
street. Returning, leaves Newark at 7.30 a.m. On 
Sundays, leaves Newark at 8 a.m. and 2 p.m. ; and New 
York at 10.30 a.m. and 4.30 p.m. 

New Redford, MaSS. — Steamers Acushnet and Wamsutta, 
Wednesday and Saturday, at 3 p.m., from Pier 13, E. R., 



STEAMBOATS. 151 

foot of Old slip. Returning, leave New Bedford on 
Wednesday and Saturday, at 3 p.m. 

Mew Hamburg. — Steamers J. L. Hasbrouck and D. S. Miller, 
Tuesday and Friday, at 5 p.m., from Pier 35, N. R., 
foot of Franklin street. Returning, leaves New Hamburg 
on Monday and Thursday, at 8 p.m. 

IVeW Haveil, Colin. — Steamboats Continental, Elm City, 
Granite State, and Traveler, daily, Sundays excepted, at 
3.15 p.m. and 11 p.m., from Pier 25, E. R., Peck slip. 
Returning, leaves New Haven at 1 1 p.m. 

Mew Haven, Coilll. — Steamer New Haven, Tuesday, 
Thursday, and Saturday, at 4 p.m., from Pier 26, E. R., 
Peck slip. Returning, leaves New Haven, Monday, 
Wednesday and Friday, at 1 1 p.m. 

\or\valk, connecting with Danburv Railroad. — Steamboat 
Nelly White, daily, except Sunday, at 2.45 p. m., from 
Pier 37, E. R. From 34th street, E. R.,at3 p.m. Re- 
turning, leaves Norwalk at 7.45 p.m. 

Myack, landing at Yonkers, Dobbs' Ferry, Hastings, Tarrytown, 

• Haverstraw, and Grassy Point. — Steamboat Chrystenah, 

daily, Sundays excepted, at 3.30 p.m., from Pier 34, N. R., 

foot of Harrison street. Returning, leaves Nyack at 7.15 

a.m., landing as above. 

Roslyn, landing at Whitestone, Baylis Dock, Great Neck, Sands 
Point, Glen Cove, Mott's Dock, and Glenwood. — Steam- 
boat Arrozvsmith, daily, except Sundays, from Pier 24, E. 
R., Peck slip, at 3.30 p.m. Returning, leaves Roslyn, 
stopping as above, at 7 a.m. 

Sag Harbor, landing at Orient and Greenport. — Steamboat 
Artisan, Saturdays, at 4 p.m., from Pier 26, E. R., Peck 
slip. Returning, leaves Sag Harbor, Mondays, at 3 p.m. 

Smith's Steamboat Line for Yonkers, Hastings, Dobbs' 
Ferry, Irvington, Tarrytown, Nyack, Rockland Lake, 
Sing Sing, Haverstraw, Verplanck's Point, Grassy Point, 
and Peekskill, from foot of Harrison street, N. R., daily, 
at 3.30, 4, and 4.30 p.m. Particulars at the office, on 
Pier No. 34. 

Soutll Amboy, M. J., connecting for Philadelphia. — Steam- 
boat Richard Stockton, daily, Sundays excepted, at 6.30 
a.m. and 2 p.m. 



152 STEAMBOATS. 

Staten Inland (North Shore). — Steamboats Pomona, Thomas 
Hunt, and Huguenot, at 7.30, 9.30, 11 a.m., and 12.20, 2, 
4, 5, and 7.30 p.m., from Pier 19, N.R. Returning, leave 
for York as follows : 

Elm Park. Pt. Richmond. Factoryville. S. S. Harbor. N. Brighton. 

6.00 A. M 6.15 A.M. 6.25 A.M. 6.30 A.M. 6.35 A.M. 

7.40 " 8.00 " 8.IO " 8.15 i; 8.25 " 

coo " 9.10 " 9.15 " 9.25 " 

10.45 " 11.00 " 11.10 " 11.15 " n.25 " 

12.15 P.M 12.30 P.M 12.40 P.M. 12.45 P.M. 12.55 P.M. 

2.00 " 2.10 "• 2.15 " 2.25 " 

3.15 " 3.JO " 3.40 •' 3.45 " 3.50 " 

5.00 ' u 5.10 ■• 5.20 il 5.25 '" 5.30 " 

On SUNDAYS, leave New York at 8.30 and 11.30 a.m., 1.30, 4, 
and 6.30 p.m. Returning, leave as below for New York: 

Elm Park. Port Richmond. Factoryville. New Brighton. 

7.I0A.M. 7.10 A.M. 7.20 A.M. 

9.45 A.M. 9.55 " IO.05 " IO.15 " 

12.15 P-M. 12.25 P.M. 12.35 P.M. 12.45 P.M. 

2.45 „" 2.55 " 3.05 " 3.15 " 

5.00 " 5.10 " 5.20 " 5.30 '* 

State II Island (South Shore). — Steam Ferry-boats hourly for 
Vanderbilt Landing, from 7 a.m. till 7 p.m. Night boats 
for Quarantine andStapleton Landing, at 9 and 11.45 p.m., 
■ from foot of Whitehall street. Returning, leave Vander- 
bilt Landing hourly, from 6 a.m. till 7 p.m., and at 10 
p.m. Also run on Sundays, leaving as above, except at 
7 a.m., from Vanderbilt Landing, instead of 6 a.m. 5 and 
night boat from New York at 10 p.m., instead of 9.45 and 

II P.M. 



INDEX. 



Academy of Mount St. Vincent. 

10. 
Adirondack Region, The. 63. 
Anthony's Nose, 18. 
Ammonoosuc River. 57. 
Ammonoosuc Valley. 57. 
Ardenia Cold Spring. 21 . 
Atlantic City. 181. 
Athens. 88. 
Avon Springs. 181. 
Avalanche Lake. 07. 

Ballston Springs. 34. 

Battle-field of Chryseler's Farm. 96. 

Battle of Lake Champlain. 48. 

Bath, L. I.. 181. 

Basin. The, 61. 

Barnegat. 24. 

Bartlett Settlement. 54. 

Bald Mountain. 61 . 

Bay of Quinte, 99. 

Bear Mountain, 18. 

Beverly Island. 18. 

Bergen Point. 181. 

Bedford Springs, 181 . 

Bender's Cave, 81. 

Bearing and Distances of White 

Mountains. 58, 59. 
Biddle's Stairs. 77. 
Birchdale Springs. 131. 
Black Mountain" 42. 
Bloomingdale. 7. 
Bloodv Point, 18. 
Bloody Pond, 40. 
Brock's Monument, 84. 
Brockville, 97. 
Budd's Lake. 138. 
Burlington Bay. 47. 
Buttermilk Falls, 18. 
Burning Spring. 88. 
Bull's Ferry, 7. 
Bull Hill. 19. 



Burlington. Vt.. 47. 
Butter Hill. •>?. 

Cape May. 119. 

Cave of the Winds, 76. 

Cannon, or Profile Mountain. 60. 

Carter Mountains, 52. 

Carl's Mill, 13. 

Cascade Rapids. 95. 

Caughnawaga. 95. 

Caldwell. 4(). 

Caldwell's Landing. 17. 

Canterbury. 23. 

Cedar Hill Cottage. 11. 

Cedar Lawn. 23. 

Claverack Falls. 38. 

Charlotte, 98. 

Cherry Pond. 54. 

Chateaugay Woods, Route into, 68. 

Chapin's Island. 76. 

Chasm Tower. 80. 

Chimney Point, 47. 

Chittenango White Sulpb. Springs. 

188. 
Chateau-Bigot. 105. 
College Hill. 25. 
Coeymans, 33. 
Cornwall Canal. 96. 
Coburg. 98. 
Cooper, Fenimore, 29. 
Cold Spring and Undercliff, 33. 
Cornwall Landing, 23. 
Columbia Springs. 33. 
Constitution Island, 19. 
Continental Village, 17. 
Conway Settlement. 54. 
Cooperstown. 188. 
Coney Island. 122. 
Cold "Spring. 120. 
Coxsackie, 33. 
Croton Lake, 122. 
Croton Point. 14. 



154 



INDEX. 



Crown PoiDt, 47. 
Crystal Falls, The, 58, 
Cumberland Bay, 48. 

Davis Road, 55. 

Devil's Hole, The, 79. 

Devil's Den, The, 57. 

Delaware Water Gap, 122. 

Deal River, 117. 

Diamond Island, 41. 

Dial Mountain, The, 67. 

Dickenson's Landing, 96. 

Dixville Notch, 58. 

Dixville Hills. The, 58. 

Dobb's Ferry 10. 

Doom, or Twelve Kile Island, 41. 

Eagle Cliff, 60. 
Eatontown. 117. 
Echo Lake, 60. 

Falls of Chaudiere, 105. 
Fails of St. Anne, 105. 
Falls of the Au Sable. 48. 
Falls of Montmorenci, 104. 
Fishkill Landing, 24. 
Flume, The. 57. 
Fort Lee, 7. 
Fort Washington, 8. 
Fort George, 40. 
Fort Independence, 18. 
Fort Anne, 44. 
Fort Edward, 44. 
Fort Ticonderoga, 43. 
Fort Clinton, 18. 
Fort Montgomery. 18. 
Fort Fayette, 15. 
Fort Kent, 47. 
Fort Schlosser, 79. 
Fort Adams, 111. 
Fort Wolcott, 111. 
Fort Henry, Lake Champlain. 47. 
Font Hill, 10. 

Francis Abbott, the Hermit. Bath- 
ing-place of, 78. 
Franconia Hills, The. 59. 
French Creek, 98. 

Gallows Hill, 16. 
Garfield's, 42. 
Garrison's Station, 19. 
Gananoque, 97. 
German town, 26. 



Genesee Falls. 122. 

Gettysburg, Pa., 122. 

Giant's Stairs. The, 56. 

Giant's Grave, The, 57. 

Glen, The, 52. 

Glen Ellis Falls, 58. 

Glenn's Falls, 39. 

Goat Island, 75. 

Grand Island, 79. 

Great Notch, 56. 

Great Indian Pass, 67. 

Greenwood Lake, 122. 

Greensburg. 13. 

Guttenburg, 7. 

Gull Island, 78. 

Gulf of Mexico (White Mts.), 55. 

Hanging Rocks, 113. 
Haver straw, 15. 
Hastings, 10. 
Hamilton, 99. 
Harris's Bay, 41. 
Hermit's Lake, 58. 
Highlands, The, 17. 
High Peak, 30. 
Horse-Shoe Fall, The, 78. 
Hudson, 31. 
Hyde Park, 25. 

Idle wild. 23. 
Indian Emporium, 76. 
Iona Island, 18. 
Irvington, 11. 
Iris Island, 76. 
Israel's River, 54. 
Isle Perrot, 95. 
Islip, 123. 

John Brown's Tract, Route to, 71. 

Kaatskill, 26. 

Kaaterskill, or High Falls, 28. 

Kaatskill Mountains, The, 27. 

Keyport, 123. 

Keene Mountains, 67. 

Kinderhook Landing, 33. 

Kingston, Canada, 97. 

Kingston, N. Y., 25. 

Kosciusko's Garden and Mnt„20, 

Lake Champlain, 46. 
Lake George, 39. 
Lake Henderson, 67. 



INDEX. 



155 



Lake Mahopac, 17, 123. 

Lake Memphremagog. 123. 

Lake Ontario. 98. 

Lake of the Clouds. 58. 

Lake Pleasaut, 67. 

Lake Sanford, 67. 

Lake St. John, 105. 

Lake St. Fr ncis, 96. 

Lake St. Louis. 95. 

Lake St. Charles. 104. 

Lake Winnipisaukee. 138. 

Lancaster. 54. 

Lachine. 94. 

Lewiston, 84. 

Lebanon Springs. 123. 

Livingston Mansion. The. 11. 

Lily Pond, 113. 

Lorette, 104. 

Long Branch. 116. 

Long Lake. 38. 

Long Island (Lake George). 41. 

Long Sault Rapids. 96. 

Low Point. 24. 

Locust Hill. 10. 

Lord Howe's Point. 4:;. 

Lovell Pond's, 54. 

Luna Island. 77. 

Maitland (Canada). 97. 
Maiden, 26. 
Marked Rock, 114. 
Matteawan, 24. 
Memorial Church, The. 13. 
Mississiquoi Springs. 123. 
Montreal, 86. 
Moodna. 28. 
Moreau Station. 44. 
Moses Rock. 28. 
Mountains of Jackson, 54. 
Mount Adams, 52. 
Mount Camel's Hump. ."U. 
Mount Chocorua, 55. 
Mount Colden. 67. 
Mount Crawford. 56. 
Mount Defiance. 43. 
Mount Dunderberg. 16. 
Mount Franklin, 55. 
Mount Hermon Cemetery. 103. 
Mount Independence, 47. 
Mount Jefferson, 52. 
Mount Kearsage. 54. 
Mount Lafayette. 55. 
Mount Mansfield. 48. 



Mount Madison. 54. 

Mount Marcy, 67. 
; Mount McMartin, 67. 

Mount Mclntyre, 67. 

Mount Pleasant. 5.'). 

Mount Resolution, 56. 
! Mount Washington. 52. 

Mount Willard. 57. 

Mount Willey, 55. 

Museum. The (Niagara), 82. 

Nahant. 123. 
Natural Steps. 104. 
Navy Island, 78. 
Newport and Vicinity. 111. 
Newbnrg. 23. 
Newman Springs. 117. 
New Baltimore. 38. 
New Brighton 138. 
New Hamburg. 24. 
New Lebanon Springs. 32. 
New Paltz Landing. 25. 
New Rochelle. 123. 
New Windsor. 23. 
Niagara Falls. 72. 
Niagara River. 78. 
North Mountain. -28. 
Nyack. 12. 

Oak Hill Cemeterv. 12. 

Oakes's Gulf. 56. 

Oceanville. 117. 

Ogdensburg, 96. 

Old Dutch Church. The. 18. 

Old StoneJJouse, The. 12. 

Oswego, 98. 

Ottawa River. The, 7. 

Palisades. The. 7. 

Peekskill, 16. 

Plattsburg. Vt.. 48. 

Plainfield. 124. 

Plains of Abraham, 103. 

Plauterkill Clove 31. 

Pleasure Bay. 117. 

Plum Point. 23. 

Pocasset, 112. 

Port Hope, 99. 

Poi\ Kent. 64. 

Port Washington. 124. 

Pool. The (White Mountains), 62 

Popular Summer Resorts. 121. 



156 



INDEX. 



Poughkeepsie, 25. 
Prescott, 96. 
Preston Pond, 67. 
Profile Lake, 61. 
Profile Kock, 60. 
Prospect Tower, 78. 
Prospect Hill, 32. 
Prospect Hill (Saratoga), 37. 
Promenade Hill, 32. 
Prisoners' Island, 43. 

Quebec, 101. 
Queenstown, 84. 

Rapids, The, 75. 
Red Bank, 117, 124. 
Rhinebeck, 26. 
Rhinebeck Landing, 26. 
Richfield Springs, 124. 
Rideau Falls, 91. 
Rocky Point, 114. 
Rockland Lake, 12. 
Roger's Slide, 42. 
Rondout. 25. 
Rouse's Point, 49. 
Rye (N. H.), 124. 

Saratoga Springs, 34. 
Sabbath-Day Point, 42. 
Saranac Lakes, The, 63. 
Saranac Region, Route into, 69. 
Sam Patch's Leap, 77. 
Saguenay River, 105. 
Saugerties, 26. 
Schooley's Mountain, 124. 
Sebago Pond, 54. 
Seneca Lake and Falls, 124. 
Shark River, 117. 
Sharon Springs, 125. 
Shaker Village, 32. 
Shelving Rock, 41 ; 
Shrewsbury, 117. 
Silver Cascade, The, 57. 
Sing Sing, 13. 
Sleepy Hollow, 13. 
Snake Hill, 37. 
South Mountain, 28. 
Sparkling Cascade, 57. 
Spaulding's Lake, 58. 
Spencer Wood, 105, 
Spouting Cave, 113. 
Spuyten Duyvel Creek, 9. 
State Prison The (N. Y.), 14. 



Stamford, 125. 
Staatsburg, 25. 
St. Catharine's, 100. 
St. Lawrence River, 85. 
St. Lawrence, Up the, 94. 
Star Lake, 58. 
Stockport, 33. 
Stony Point, 15. 
Sunnyside, 11. 
Sugar Loaf Mountain, 18. 
Suspension Bridge, 80. 
Sylvan Grove Cataract, 57. 

Table Rock, 82. 
Tarry town, 12. 
Tappan, 12. 
Tappan Zee, 11. 
Tadoussac, 106. 
Termination Rock, 82. 
Thousand Isles, The, 97. 
Three Profiles, The, 77. 
Tinton Falls, 117. 
Tivoli, 26. 
Ticonderoga, 43. 
Toronto, 99. 
Tongue Mountain, 41. 
Trenton Falls, 125. 
Tuckerman's Ravine, 55. 
Tupper's Lake, 65. 
Two Lakes, 28. 

University of Vermont, 47. 
U. S. Military Academy, 20. 

Van Cortland House, 17. 
Vallonia Springs, 125. 
Verplanck's Point, 15. 
Verdrietege's Hook. 15, 
Village of St. Regis, 96. 

Walled Banks of the Au Sable, 48. 
West Point, 19. 
White Mountains, 50. 
White Sulphur Springs, 125. 
Whitehall, 45. 
Whirlpool, The, 79. 
William's Rock, 40. 
Willoughby Lake, 125. 
Wolfe's Island, 97. 
Wolfe's Cove, 103. 
Woolfert's Roost, 12. 
Wyoming Valley, 125. 

Yonkers, 9. 



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Fire Insurance Co., 

Office, No, 192 Broadway, cor, John Street, 

BRANCH OFFICE: 

9 Cooper Institute, Third. Avenue. 

INCORPORATED 1S2;J. 

CASH CAPITAL, - - - $500,000.00 
SURPLUS, - - - - 273,834.77 

Cash Capital and Surplus, Jan- 
uary 1, 1869, - - - 773,834.77 

Insures Property against los^ or damage by fire, at usual 
rates. 

Policies issued and losses paid at the office of the Com- 
pany, or at its various Agencies in the principal cities in the 
United States. 

Directors : 

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Richard M. Blatchford, j Joshua J. Henry, j Henry t Parish, 

Acton Civill, John Bryan, 

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jTaMES Jf. PTIS, J^.. J?. ^LEECKER, 

President. Viee-Pres't. 

•F. U, pARTER, -jt. pRISWOLD, 

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Available in all the Principal Cities of the World. 



Telegraphic Transfers of Funds made to 



AND THE 



ZF.A.CIIFIC OO^ST 



Money Received on Deposit, and 
usual Interest allowed thereon. 
11 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 

CONTINENTAL HOTEL, 

PHILADELPHIA. 




J. E. KING-SLEY & CO., 

Proprietors, 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 




J 






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O 

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TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



THE 

Mutual Life Insurance Company 

Issued 5,458 more Policies in 1868 tban any other Company. 

Has 5.161 more Policies in force than any other Company. 

Total Income, $4,477,071 more than any other Company. 

Total Assets, $8,348,243 more than any' other Company. 

Dividends paid in 1868, $1,350,825 more than any other Company. 

Ratio of Total Outgo to Income from 4 to 20 per cent, lower than any 

other Company. 

OFFICE - - - 144 and 146 BROADWAY. 

[From The Insurance Times, Extra.} 

Statement of every Life Insurance Company doing business in New York, 
and having over 10,000 Policies in force December 31, 1868. 



C3MPANEES. 



3H 3 j,,-. 



Mutual Life, N. Y |18,895 

New York Life 9,105 

Manhattan ! 3,801 

Knickerbocker 10,759 

Equitable ! 11,986 

Home j 2,103 

Germania l 3,157 

Security Life j 4,386 

North America 4,387 

New England Mutual 5,446 

Mutual Benefit, N. J 7,701 

Connecticut Mutual 11,960 

Union Mutual, Me 3,212 

Charter Oak 9,881 

JEtna Life, Conn 13,337 

Massachusetts Mutual 2,763 

Phoenix Mutual 8,229 

North Western, Wis |ll,719 



60,872 
28,340 
13,623 
20,113 
27,669 
10,311 
14,878 
10,624 
11,328 
21,293 
31,324 
55,711 
11,732 
19,028 
39,373 
10,396 
17,761 
27,8S7 



12,807,320 
4,678,280 

i 2,097,914 

3,869,655 

4,840,157 

953,078 

i 1,223,020 
1,005,242 
1,686,947 

, 2,987,092 
5,856,545 
8,330,249 
1,505,019 

! 3,102,271 

J 6,000,227 
977,786 

i 1,930,833 

i 2,417,244 




31,017,320 
11,000,822 
5,338,340 
5,170,883 
7,721,077 
2,010,644 
2,452,014 
1,854,570 
4,002,402 
7,487,264 
16,547,107 
22,669,077 
3,730,836 
5,102,678 
10,350,512 
2,469,355 
3,664,060 
4,755,418 



3,257,137- 

1,225,8651 

403,1781 

64,9011 
849,979! 
196,804: 
149,922 ! 

93,183 

54,550 

772,284' 

1,906,312: 

928,284; 

68,784' 
687,335' 
426,470 

39,636 
148,571 
214,749- 



12.57 
15.74 
15.12 
16.54 
17.44 
17.14 
19.04 
22.51 
21.16 
15.77 
10.63 
11.60 
13.60 
14.36 
13.41 
14.75 
17.69 
21.67 



a bo 

■S*| O s ] 

•■§ii i 1 j 



9.43 
15.84 
22.96 
14.60 
15.51 
15.25 
22.03 
13.60 
12.93 
16.72 
18.03 



22.00 
31.58 
38.08 
31.14 
32.95 
32.39 
41.07 
36.11 
34.09 
32.50 
28.09 



14.66 i 26.26 
14.64 I 28.25 



11.55 
14.25 
13.28 
8.64 



25.92 
27.66 
28.03 
26.37 



13.50 i 35.14 



FREDERICK S. WINSTON, President. 

RICHARD A. McCURDY, Vice-President 
SHEPPARD HOMANS, Actuary. 
L. C. LAWTON, Asst. Actuary. 

JOHN M. STUART, Secretary. FRED'K SCHRORDER, Asst. Secretary. 

William Betts, LL.D., ) 
Hon. Lucius Robinson, >• Counsel. 
Hon. Henry E. Davies, j 

^^c w- K ?' M ™ £ !• Medical Examiners. 
G. S. Winston, M.D., j 

CASH ASSETS OVER THIRTY-TWO MILLION DOLLARS. 

This Company transacts, business entirely on the 

and its $32,000,000 Assets include no premium 

notes, fancy stocks, or other imaginary or 

questionable securities. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



EMPIRE 



tttttal |tfc \ 



mnirancc 



tympany 



0:F 1VE-W YORK. 



Office, No. 189 Broadway. 

Whole Life Policies, absolutely non-forfeitable from payment 
of first annual premium. 

Special Insurances non-forfeitable after two annual 'payments. 

All Policies incontestable for usual causes, and absolutely incon- 
testable after two annual premiums. 

All restrictions upon travel and residence removed, and no permits 
required. 

No accumulation of interest on Loans or Deferred Premiums, and 
no increase of annual payment on any class of Policies. 

Dividends on the Progressive Plan, and also upon the Guarantee 
Interest Plan. 

OFFICERS : 
G. HILTON SCRIBNER, President. 

GEORGE W. SMITH, Vice-President 
SIDNEY W. CROFUT, Secretary. 
LEMUEL H. WATERS, Actuary. 

THOS. K. MARCY, M.D., Medical Examiner. 
EVERETT CLAPP, Superintendent of Agencies. 

DIRECTORS : 

G. HILTON SCRIBNER President. 

GEORGE W. SMITH Vice-President. 

SAMUEL F. B. MORSE No. 5 E. 20th St., N. Y. 

WM. F. DRAKE Drake Bros., Bankers, No. 16 Broad St., N. Y. 

M. B. WYNKOOP .... Wynkoop & Hallenbeck, 113 Fulton St., N. Y. 
HENRY R. MORGAN - - New York and Charleston Steamship Co., 26 Broadway. 

RICHARD POILLON CAR. Poillon, Shipbuilders, 224 South St. 

L. W. FROST Continental Life Insurance Company, N. Y. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 




PIANOFOBTI 






These Instruments are used and endorsed by 

MAD. PAKEPA ROSA, 
MISS ALIDE TOPP, 
J. N. PATTISON, 
GEORGE F. BRISTOW, 
G. W. MORGAN, 

ED. MOLLENHAUER, 

AND OTHERS, 

And considered by every Musician of Note the 

THE BEST PIANOS NOW MANUFACTURED. 



MISS LOUISA KELLOGG, 
S. B. MILLS, 

HARRY SANDERSON, 
WM. MASON, 

C. JEROME HOPKINS, 
LOUIS SCHREIBER, 



FIFTH AVENUE, cor. W. 16th St., 

arsw f@n« 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



Important to Travelers. 




HOUSE'S PATENT 



Have been introduced with great success as a preventive of BAG- 
GAGE SMASHING. Wherever they have been used they 
have been awarded the highest praise, and the leading 

Hotel Proprietors, Express Companies, and Baggage Men 

have unanimously endorsed them. 

Manufacturer & Dealer in Trunks, Traveling Bans, &c, 

SOLE AGENT, 

No. 24 Fourth Avenue, New York. 

Trunks with Shields attached constantly on hand, or made to order. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



i 



MpU'g <5pto* 0f J$tMmm : 



BETWEEN 



NEW YORK AND ALBANY. 
NEW YORK TO ALBANY. 

STBAMEES 

Capt. W. H. Christopher, 
Tuesday, 

Thursday, 

Saturday, 



Capt. S. J. Roe, 
Monday, 

Wednesday, 

Friday, 



FROM PIER 41, WORTH RIVER 

(Near Jersey City Ferry, Desbrosses Street), 
-A-T 6.00 3F».3VC. r 

Connecting with Trains of New York Central, Albany & Susquehanna, 
Rensselaer & Saratoga, and Boston & Albany Railways. 

H^T* Tickets can be had at the Office on the Wharf, and Baggage 
checked to destination. 

Telegraph Office on the Wharf. 

HEP" Passengers leaving Washington at 8.00 a.m., Baltimore at 9.40 
a.m., Philadelphia at 1.20 p.m., arrive in New York at 4.50 p.m., in time 
to connect as above. 



ALBANY TO NEW YORK. 



STEAMERS 



JOHN, 

Capt. W. H. Christopher, 
Monday, 

Wednesday, 
Friday, 



Capt. S. J. Roe, 

Tuesday, 

Thursday, 

Saturday. 



From Steamboat Landing, at 8,15 P.M., 

On arrival of Trains from North and West. 

Baggage conveyed from N. Y. C. R. R. Depot to the Boats, FREE. 

BF" TICKETS to Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Washington City, for 
sale on the Boats, and Baggage checked to destination. 

Hudson River R. R. Tickets taken for passage, including State- 
Room Berth. * 6 ' 

JOHN C. HEWITT, Gen. Ticket Agent. 
P. C. SMITH, Gen. Agent. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



NEW YORK AND TROY 




The old popular established evening line of steamers for Albany and 
Troy. The fastest night steamers, 

Connecting the Great West and North with New York* 

Fare only $1.50, being $1.75 cheaper than by rail; 75 cents less than 
any other route. The fast floating palaces 

Vanderbilt and Connecticut, 

leave alternately daily (Saturdays excepted), from Pier No. 44, North 
River, foot of Spring street, connecting with all railroads for the VY est, 
North and East, at the above reduction. Returning steamers leave 
Troy at 6 p.m., Albany at 7 p.m., or on arrival of evening trains. 

Fare, Sundays, Two Dollars. 

For passage, apply at oflices on the Wharf. For freight, which is taken 
at greatly reduced prices, apply at same place. 




Hotel 



LOISTGI- ISL^ISra 



The attention of Gentlemen and Families is respectfully 
called to the BATH HOTEL, under new management, 
Re-furnished, re-fitted, re-organized. 

Sea Bathing, Boating, Fishing, large Grove, and hand- 
some Grounds. 

Having taken the Hotel for a term of years, it will be 
kept first-class in every respect. 

E. A. WELLEK, A. C. LEWIS. 

Stip't. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 




% §*., 



® 





680 BROADWAY, 



Wlf WW- 



NAPOLEON SAEONY. ALFRED S. CAMPBELL. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



D. RUSSELL, 





mhmt #mt0t, 



835 BROADWAY, 



Corner, 13th Street, NEW YOBK. 



t^ 30 1 receive during the season, direct, 
the latest London styles of Goods, selected 
from the best West End houses. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



ftfttfctii* 




JTJST PUBLISHED. 



One volume, 



IMPBESSIONS OF SPAIN. By Lady Herbert. 
12mo, fifteen illustrations, cloth extra, $2.00. 

This is a beautiful book, and contains fifteen full-page illustrations of Churches, Convents, 
&c, in Spain, with a description of the manners and customs of the Spaniards. 

GLIMPSES OF PLEASANT HOMES. By the Author of " The 
Life of Mother McAuley." Illustrated with four full-page illustra- 
tions. One volume, 12mo, cloth extra, $1.50. 

WHY MEN DO NOT BELIEVE ; or, The Principal Causes of In- 
fidelity. Translated from the French of Mgr. Laforet. Cloth, $1.00. 

" We recommend this book warmly to all thinking young men and women, to all parents 
and teachers, and all readers generally." — Catholic World. 

ANNE SEVEBIN, By the Author of tl A Sister's Story/' One vol- 
ume, 12mo, cloth, $1.50. 

" It will be a favorite with young ladies." — Catholic Mirror. 

CBADLE LANDS : Egypt, Palestine, &c. By Lady Herbert. One 
volume, 12mo, vellum cloth, $2.00, 

This work contains eight full-page illustrations of the Holy Land, with diagrams of the 
Holy Sepulchre, the Crib, Churches, &c. 
" A delightful sketch of Travels in the East." — Pittsburgh Catholic. 
"This volume is handsomely bound and beautifully illustrated." — New York Times. 
" A very beautiful book in style, in matter, and in illustration." — Irish Citizen. 

MEMOBIALS OF THOSE WHO SUFFEBED FOB THE CATH- 
olic Faith in Ireland during the Sixteenth, Seventeenth, and 
Eighteenth Centuries. Collected and edited by Myles O'REiLiiY, 
B.A., LL.D. One volume, crown 8vo, vellum cloth, $2.50. 

A SISTEB'S STOBT. By Mrs. Augustus Craven. Translated 
from the French by Emily Bowles. One volume, crown 8vo, pp. 558, 
cloth extra, $2.50. 

THE LIFE OF FATHEB BAVIGNAN, S. J. By Father Pon- 
levot, S. J. One volume, crown 8vo, toned paper, $54.00. 

" This is one of the very best books that has been given to the Catholic public for many 
years." — New York Tablet. 
" The book is replete with interest to the literary as well as the ecclesiastical student." — 

IBISH ODES' AND OTHEB POEMS. By Aubrey de Vere. One 
volume, 12mo, toned paper, $2.00 ; cloth, gilt, $2.50. 

" It is rarely, indeed, that we can give to any book so cordial a welcome or so unqualified 
an approval." — Sound Table. 

" Religious faith, patriotism, and poetic feeling unite to make it a very pleasant volume." 
— Catholic Mirror. 

Every Catholic book, American or Foreign, in the English language, 
always on hand. 

J^ST* Send for a general Catalogue of English and American Catholic 
Books. 

The Catholic Publication Society, 

LAWRENCE KEHOE, General Agent, 
126 Nassati Street, - - New York. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



ESTABLISHED 1808. 
Successor to A. J. Delatour, 

Manufacturer 0! # oda Water, 

And dealer in 

MINERAL WATERS. 

Office, 25* WALL ST, Factory, 340 FIFTH ST. 

Plain Soda iu bottles, and other Mineral Waters, delivered 
to any order — city or country. 



HUM NT IffSIf 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



One of the largest and best appointed Hotels in the west. 

Rebuilt, Remodeled, and Refurnished in the richest and 
most luxurious manner, in 1868. 

Numerous suites of rooms with Baths and Water, &c. 

One of Atwood's improved passenger elevators has been 
introduced, for conveying guests to the different floors. 



,i JNO. B. DKAKE, 

J 7>7?OP7?rKTOK. 



W. W. Felt. 
,. linden Hotel, 
" Sam'l M. Turner. ) PBOPBIETOB. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 

NARRAGANSET STEAMSHIP CO. 

FOR BOSTON, via NEWPORT AND FALL RIVER. 

Consolidation of the Bristol and Fall River Lines. 
The Largest and most Magnificent Steam- 
ers in the World. 



THE BRISTOL, 

Capt. BRAYTON. 



THE PROVIDENCE, 

Capt. SIMMONS. 



Tuesdays, 

Thursdays, 

and Saturdays 



Mondays, 

"Wednesdays, 

and Fridays. 

Will leave Pier 28, North River, foot of Murray street, daily, at 5 
p.m. A new and convenient feature of this line, is running a boat on 
Sunday, at the same hour. 

By this route, passengers can take train from Newport at 4 a.m., and 
arrive in Boston at 6 a.m., in time to connect with all Northern and 
Eastern trains ; or rest undisturbed, breakfast onboard, and take 7.43 
a.m. train, and ai-rive in Boston at early business hours. 

/ames fiSK, jTr., yVL JR.. ^Simons, 

Managing Director. General Sup't. 

CHAS. H. VAILE, 

Gen. Pass'r Agt., Pier 28, North River. 

~ GEORGE PARSONS & CO., ™~ 

Wholesale Jobbers of 

FIREWORKS, FIRE CRACKERS, 

FLAGS, LAlSnrERJNTS, &c. 

Importers of Toys and Fancy Goods, 

Wo. 12 Park Place, Ketv York, 

BBBITT HOUSE, 

Comer F and 14th Streets, 

T7IT -A- JS ZZXKT G- T O 3XT , JD - O. 

C. C. WILLARD, 

Many years Proprietor Hygeia Hotel, Old Point Comfort, Va. 

Proprietor. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



LONDON EDITIONS. 



Having been appointed by Messrs. EYRE & SPOTTISWOODE. ot 
LONDON, Sole Agents for the sale of their 



The undersigned beg leave to inform the Trade that they are pre- 
pared to execute orders for the same, and also for the Publications 
of the 

New York Bible an* Common Prayer Book Society, 

And they respectfully solicit an examination of their Stock, which 
will be found to be 

The Laf^gest, 

^he Most Varied, 

And More Beautiful 

Than has ever been shown by any House in America. 



A New Catalogue will be Mailed, on Application. 



London, Bible Warehouse, 

Cooper Union, New York. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 




'-\ f ¥ .TTlf 



i M 



*9 




Wartford, Conn. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



HANBURY SMITH'S 



MIWlfMA 



L^ISI^S 




MANUFACTURED BY 



Hanbury Smith & Hazard, 



35 Pnion SQUARE, 



New York. 



These Waters have now been before the public upAvard 
of 14 years. 

Their usefulness, and an excellence guaranteed by the 
character of the manufacturers, have brought them into uni- 
versal use. 

When ovev-fatigued or exhausted by heat, they afford im- 
mediate relief. 

For the inconveniences produced by travel, and for the 
results of irregularities, they afford the safest, most prompt, 
and pleasant cure known. 

For sale by most respectable Druggists. Ask for Han- 
bury Smith's. Name branded on the cork. Beware of 
counterfeits. 
12 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 

Stetson House, 

LONG BRANCH. 



THIS HOTEL IS NOW OPEN. 

ROOMS SECURED AND FULL INFORMATION GIVEN 
AT THE ASTOR HOUSE, NEW YORK. 



Improvements have been constantly made, and the Hotel 
is in first-class order. The proprietor, grateful for past 
favors, respectfully solicits the patronage of his old guests. 

The Delaware and R. B. R. R. Co. will run a boat at 9 
A.m. during the season, returning at 4 p.m. The Express train 
as usual at 4.15 p.m. (See railway and steamboat tables.) 

The Sea Shore line will also run two trips, at 10 and 4 
o'clock. From Philadelphia, there will be two means of 
communication — via Camden and Amboy and Freehold, 
through to Long Branch by rail ; and also over the New 
Jersey R. R., connecting at Freehold with the Long Branch 
and Farmingdale road. 

The Dining Room and Restaurant 

Will be under the charge of first-class men from the Hotels 
of New York, and Delmonico's. 

C. A. STETSON, Jr., 

Proprietor. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



IN PREPARATION. 



THE 

PACIFIC AND OVERLAND 

GUIDE. 

Short cuts to Japan and China, 

INCLUDING BRIEF SKETCHES OF THE 

TREATY PORTS 

oif 1 both empibes, 
Maps, and Tables of Distances. 

BY 

EDWARD HEPPLE HALL. 

Uniform in Style and Price with the "Tourist's Guide." 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 




tin. 



THE ZtTZETW" YOIELIC STJIfcT- 



An Independent Daily Newspaper, political and general, giving 
All the News in a fresh, readable, attractive manner, condensed so 
that a business man can find time to read the whole. Charles A. Dana, 
Editor and Manager. Price $6.00 a year, $1.50 for three months. 

The Sun now has a circulation in New York City and neighbor- 
hood exceeding that of any other morning paper. This circulation is 
also steadily increasing. 

Business men will observe that advertisements in The Sun are not 
hidden away in the inner folds of an inconvenient blanket sheet, but 
are printed so as to be seen without difficulty by every reader of the 
paper. 

THE WEEKLY STJJNT, 

Prepared with great care for country subscribers. Political news 
thoroughly condensed. Farmers 1 and Fruit Growers 1 Clubs fully re- 
ported. Markets accurately given. Horticultural and Agricultural 
Department edited by Andrew S. Fuller. Great variety of interesting 
miscellaneous reading, making it a first-rate 

GENERAL FAMILY NEWSPAPER, 

and the cheapest as well as the best metropolitan weekly. 

Price, $1.00 a year; twenty copies to one address, $17.00 ; fifty copies 
to one address, $37.50; a hundred copies to one addre3s, $75.00. 



THE SEMI-WEEKLY STTN". 

Same size and character as the Weekly, but furnishing twice as 
rmuch reading matter, and giving the news with greater freshness. 
Great pains will also be taken in making up the political news of the 
day for this paper, so that the reader, whatever be his politics, will 
find the Semi-Weekxt Sun to be an accurate and comprehensive com- 
pendium of political information. 

Price, $2.00 a year ; ten copies to one address, $18.00 ; twenty copies 
to one address, $35.00 ; fifty copies to one address, $80.00; always in 
advance. 

Address, THE SUN, 

New York City. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



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TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



The Under signed begs to direct the attention 
of Travelers and Visitors to 






m 




K 
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CO 



Select Patterns of Frames for 

Prints & MM1 



miBiiBgPf 

Artists' Materials, 

"WA.X FLOWEES RKtjTISITKS, 

PICTURE GALLERY, 

Are the principal features of this truly elegant Estab- 
lishment. 

M. KNOEDLER, 

5th ^veMiie an4 2^d Street. 

H 99 78 



3E WEST 74 rPOM GREENWICH 



oi<: 

NBVBNGLAND& CANADA 

ith ioeompaitjrflalls TburistsPoeket €uidel869 . 

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